Damper and saving some wood?
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No you need to either add a new framing member running the whole height of the roof next to the box to replace the one you cut. Or double up the next one run cross framing that properly ties into the cut framing.
But you are then putting the load that should be spread across 2 framing members onto the center of one. It isn't the right way to do it.
![[Hearth.com] Damper and saving some wood?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/311/311714-16e96ce29db76d6962b2dd4910c08408.jpg?hash=5hecraywgr "[Hearth.com] Damper and saving some wood?")
Tight fitting joints will give you better mechanical strength also. That board going left to right isn’t tight on either end.
Ya I know, the only problem with that board is that I screwed everything in front the inside of the box out. So I can't even take off any of the 2x4s that are already in place, all I can do is brace it more.
I honestly need this to last 2 years and after that I'll replace the shingles on top and the plywood that I cut into. I want to put a rock wall behind the stove in the future but can't because I'm almost at min tolerance.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
After seeing that framing pic I guess I can see why...that chimney is being held up by a lick n a promise.He yelled at me alot in the beginning but lately has been pretty nice
A couple more 2x's, some construction screws, a measuring tape, a framing square, and a couple hours could make some huge improvements on the structural strength of your roof/chimney there.
You're sneakin up on it...just keep after it. 👍
Just finished reinforcing, now it has 2 2x4 with who knows how many screws all screwed into the rafters. I bet it's stronger right now than when I first started.
![[Hearth.com] Damper and saving some wood?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/311/311715-c685965501729bf2793a661c627a1fb5.jpg?hash=N5i0ZhlJiD "[Hearth.com] Damper and saving some wood?")
Shouldn't the support 2x4 be aligned to the roof angle instead of poking out below the ceiling rafters?
To clarify, it is clearance to combustibles that matters. I.e. if you have studs at an inch over the clearance distance, and then add a few inches of noncombustibles (e.g. stone), that's fine for fire safety.
On the other hand there is also the issue that the stove needs to be able to shed its heat. The extreme case of bricks touching the stove wall won't be good for the stove as it might overheat.
Some stoves have thermostats, and setting them too close to a wall also may affect that operation.
I think your stove has an 8" clearance in the rear. Personally, I would not decrease the air space (by having noncombustibles on the wall) to less than 1/3 of that, i.e. 2-2/3".
That is the clearance you can decrease to if you have an approved wall shielding, suggesting that when the wall is protected by a convective heat shield, your stove still likes to have 2.67" of air space behind it.
On the other hand there is also the issue that the stove needs to be able to shed its heat. The extreme case of bricks touching the stove wall won't be good for the stove as it might overheat.
Some stoves have thermostats, and setting them too close to a wall also may affect that operation.
I think your stove has an 8" clearance in the rear. Personally, I would not decrease the air space (by having noncombustibles on the wall) to less than 1/3 of that, i.e. 2-2/3".
That is the clearance you can decrease to if you have an approved wall shielding, suggesting that when the wall is protected by a convective heat shield, your stove still likes to have 2.67" of air space behind it.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
See, I thought that was not allowed.
As in, if you are an inch over your minimum CTC, then adding 1.5" of something like rock (non combustible, but also low R value) on the wall, then you'd be 1/2" below minimum, because the rock could conduct heat to the combustible surface.
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