WoodyIsGoody
Minister of Fire
I think I figured it out. If you look at when he puts his maul down at 1:25 and walks off he gives it away, Pretty obvious he's stoned on something.
Cutting the trunk of a felled tree
- Thread starter Elle
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I think I figured it out. If you look at when he puts his maul down at 1:25 and walks off he gives it away, Pretty obvious he's stoned on something.
Cinder blocks would have kept it off of the ground, but you'd still have the problem of "rocking" your chain on one of those cinder blocks. Rocking means touching a rock or ground, rendering your chain very dull or FUBAR in an instant. Any wood placed under the trunk, including a half rotten limb, a few tree branches, some already processed firewood, etc., will keep your chain from being rocked.
Reading tension/compression can be tricky for even the most seasoned cutter. There are some more techniques that may help:
As already mentioned, a plastic wedge or three can get just about any saw out of a pinch or even prevent pinching if inserted at the right time.
As you cut, carefully watch the kerf for the first sign of closing/narrowing, and pull out as soon as you notice it.
Some will implement a slow, back-and-forth sawing motion while cutting. That is, act like the bar is a slow moving crosscut saw while the chain is cutting, and pull out when you feel the first bit of resistance. It can take some time to get the feel for this technique, and it can't be used in all circumstances.
As for the timberjack, use it to roll the log and elevate it at the same time. Many times simply rolling the log a little bit will open the kerf enough to free a chainsaw bar.
No plastic wedges? A long crowbar or preferably a (broken link removed) prying in the kerf works very well to open it temporarily to free the saw.
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I love the idea of a cant hook; however, I don't recommend that particular model which has a two-piece steel handle. Years ago, I tried to roll a large white oak log and the bent and eventually ripped open at the point where the handle screws together.
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I've made my own wedges on site from chunks of the tree. Anything that won't dull the chain will work!
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You need to find a friend with a tractor and front end loader; wrap a chain and lift up and your saw is free. As far as the new saw is concerned, you definitely need a new one, the bar and the saw are custom fit at the factory. Trying to use another bar with your saw would be dangerous
Make sure your wife sees this post before she lets you go back into the woods with that dangerous saw!!
jetsam
Minister of Fire
For cutting the last little bit on big wood on the ground, there's a few ways I keep my chain out of the dirt:
1) If the ground is fairly flat, finish the cut by setting the saw down flat on the ground. The bar will finish a little off the ground. Simple but not intuitive. Unless the tree is dug in, the cut will usually be close enough to done that you can kick/pry it apart easily.
2) Winch or cant hook the log/tree over and finish the cut from the top.
3) Cheat. Put your stumping chain on a second saw. Start all the bucking cuts with your big/good saw, then and finish all the cuts with the stump chain saw.
1) If the ground is fairly flat, finish the cut by setting the saw down flat on the ground. The bar will finish a little off the ground. Simple but not intuitive. Unless the tree is dug in, the cut will usually be close enough to done that you can kick/pry it apart easily.
2) Winch or cant hook the log/tree over and finish the cut from the top.
3) Cheat. Put your stumping chain on a second saw. Start all the bucking cuts with your big/good saw, then and finish all the cuts with the stump chain saw.
dont want to buy or carry a bunch of crap, i cut wedges, until you have some smaller pieces then it wont matter, cut half to 3/4 through and then cut back a few inches and meet the hole once you have a few all the way though you can move the tree
