I started mine in November , my dump truck loaded is roughly a cord. In 2 months I have burned 7 dump truck loads. I most likely would have burned at best 5 dump truck loads by now with my old Hardy . I have read the manual and did some trouble shooting but, still haven’t figured out the troubles.
Crown Royal 7200mp
- Thread starter Terryl
- Start date
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I think I speak for everyone here when I say we feel your frustration and have been there at one point with a product in our own lives. We are here to help and thank you for posting about your issues BUT …..
Unless you give us some more details about how you’re operating the stove we can’t really help any more other than to jump on the bandwagon and say “it’s junk!!” which it likely isn’t. No one here is about to call you stupid or anything like that if you share details we think can be changed about the stoves settings and how you’re loading it and such.
What is your temperature differential ?
What temp does the stove kick on at ?
What temp does the stove kick off at ?
Is your multipass area plugged up or coated with creosote junk ?
How many times and how often do you move the shaker grate lever ?
How do you load the stove ? Wood orientation mostly. Side to side or lengthwise ?
How long does it take to run a burn cycle ?
Is it plumbed correctly in the back ? Mostly are the supply and return lines going into the correct ports.
With these details we can paint a better picture of what you have going on. Hopefully your dealer will ask the same questions and give you some pointers. These stoves operate different than your old Hardy and require a different approach. Sort of like how it’s different driving a car vs an suv in the winter snow. Both will likely get you to your destination but both will do it differently. Believe it or not these MP stoves (from most all brands not just Crown Royal) are the suv and should do a much better job.
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Try moving your temps. 180* off and on at 170*.
That really seems to be a sweet spot for all boilers.
Not sure if this has been mentioned, check door gaskets. Especially the ashpan door. If it leaks air, you're burning while furnace is idling.
That really seems to be a sweet spot for all boilers.
Not sure if this has been mentioned, check door gaskets. Especially the ashpan door. If it leaks air, you're burning while furnace is idling.
Wow! A little off topic, but moral of the story is don't forget which email you have linked to this site. I had to re register with a new user name (woodman1 was my old name) because the site had a 2 step verification that sent a code to an old email I no longer use. Anyway, It is good to be back and hopefully I don't forget which email this is linked to.
Enough of that...I just wanted to throw this thought out there to the OP. A friend of mine has a hardy I think H2. Hardy recommendation at the time was to simply run pex lines in a PVC pipe for underground lines. Also the recommendation was for the circulator to only run during a call for heat. Just wondering if this is how your hardy was setup and if now your circulator is running 24/7. I could see how your wood usage went up if you have poor underground lines and the pump went from demand to constant on.
Enough of that...I just wanted to throw this thought out there to the OP. A friend of mine has a hardy I think H2. Hardy recommendation at the time was to simply run pex lines in a PVC pipe for underground lines. Also the recommendation was for the circulator to only run during a call for heat. Just wondering if this is how your hardy was setup and if now your circulator is running 24/7. I could see how your wood usage went up if you have poor underground lines and the pump went from demand to constant on.
I run my 7400MP at the same settings Terryl has as well most of the year. When it gets butt cold I’ll bump it up to 170-180 and don’t really notice a change in wood consumption.
Door gaskets leaking is a good thing to check. I’d imagine you have the updated door with a latch on top and bottom unlike mine with only one latch in the center. If your door was leaking you’d know. There would be all kinds of water and goo coming out the bottom of your door and you’d have upside down brown icicles on the ground under the door.
Are the doors to your blower motors closing all the way between burn cycles ? The stove should not really be smoking at all in between burn cycles. If the loading door was leaking or the blower doors were not closing properly it’d be smoking pretty much nonstop.
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Well that’s good. Keep us posted on what the dealer finds. It sounds like you’re doing a lot of things the same way I do other than loading the wood the opposite way. It made a noticeable difference for me but it sure didn’t cut the wood use in half.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Found out that is the culprit. Pump running all the time on the Crown Royal. I could have kept my Hardy and put in new lines and my wood consumption would have been way less, likely the same as what the new Crown Royal is supposed to do. I would also been $14,000 better off.
If you think you need a more efficient boiler, keep the one you have and get the new modern lines. You will be a lot of money ahead.
If you think you need a more efficient boiler, keep the one you have and get the new modern lines. You will be a lot of money ahead.
sloeffle
Minister of Fire
That's not true. A MP boiler along with new lines will burn a lot less wood than your old inefficient smoke dragon. That's not the boilers fault, that's your fault for not upgrading the lines when you put the new boiler in.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That's simply not true.
My folks switched from a CB smoke dragon pig, to a gasifier and cut the wood usage between half to 2/3...both using the same elcheapo crap lines, and circulating 24/7.
The lines have since been switched out too, but that actually made less difference than the boiler did...it did help quite a bit when it gets really cold, but the boiler swap is more efficient 24/7...plus it no longer looks like the whole farm is on fire half the time.
It does suck a lot that you found out this way though....can you switch back to demand only? I know the Heatmasters have a circ pump on the back that just circs the onboard water, regardless of what the house/garage are doing. Correct me if I'm wrong @sloeffle
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This is something I had/have been considering.
This house has a total of 4 bathrooms and with the kitchen, that can be a high DHW demand. Circulating through the whole house continuously, I can heat my hot water via side arm and a 20 plate on the well supply. This is what I will probably choose. I also will add 250gals of vented storage. I am considering adding 3/4'' lines and circulation just for that.
I have not built my system yet and, we're only using 1 and a half bathroom at this time. Even with the system up and running, It'll be awhile with all bathrooms in service. At least I'll have time to fine tune my system.
Yes , it is my fault. I should have researched more, just put in the new modern lines and kept my Hardy. The dealer is going to put an on demand relay on my new Crown Royal like the Hardy already had. I may put in new lines this summer.
I thought I was doing the right thing buying a more efficient wood boiler. Turns out all wood boilers are the same, but the new modern lines make the difference for running the pump all the time, way more efficient .If the new boilers were set up to on demand pumps they would be even be more wood savers
I thought I was doing the right thing buying a more efficient wood boiler. Turns out all wood boilers are the same, but the new modern lines make the difference for running the pump all the time, way more efficient .If the new boilers were set up to on demand pumps they would be even be more wood savers
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
What you are posting is not true
All wood boilers are not the same. Is yous actually a boiler? Boilers are run pressurized.
Then there is a gasification boiler, compared to a multi pass boiler or a box inside a tank boiler, with all three types also having unpressurized cousins which are actually water heaters.
I did my research on here for months before i spent my money. Which saved me from building an un efficient system like yours.
The water heater i was going to buy wasn't very good by reading reviews on here, the lines were sub par as well.... salesmen will sell you anything.
Central Boiler was the boiler of choice up here just because of salesmen and "you can burn anything" in it... Waste of your money
After months of reading and planning i was able to build my own heating system that has been in use for 14 years with no issues. I use 8 cords of spruce to heat my home over the course of a real winter.
A friend of mine used to use over 50 to heat basically the same house as i have. He had a water heater that smoked away all winter long. It finally died on him last year he has replaced it with a new one and his wood consumption has dropped by 1/2 already
So the bold statement of all boilers are the same is totally false.
You need to read and learn
I've learned a boat load of knowledge here as well. Even your old Hardy would have been slightly improved by feeding the driest wood possible. Rounds do not dry fully. Split them in half, at least. Your new unit will benefit even more. It will require it. Ultimately, prepping your wood more will save you work overall. You'll need less per season for the same heat given. Just like a wood stove, get yourself 3yrs ahead.
An old school unit will NEVER be as efficient as a new style water heater.
That's a plain fact.
It's no secret. These "modern lines" have been around just as long as the cheap crap.
An old school unit will NEVER be as efficient as a new style water heater.
That's a plain fact.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That makes about as much sense as saying that a Gremlin is as fast as a ZRI Vette, just because the Gremlin has a Vette fan belt...
Don't feel cheated. I hope you made some back on a resale of the Hardy. With the MP you will save countless hours of preparing wood and feeding the furnace. Time is valuable.
So is it a multi pass boiler or a true gasification boiler? It probably was stated somewhere back it the thread but I missed it. I thought it was a true gasification outdoor wood boiler with a secondary chamber and lots of refractory. If it is just a multi pass out door wood boiler I think he should see some wood savings, I don't know if it could really be 40%.
By design, if it's not burning off the gasses it is going to make creosote that will hinder heat exchange no matter how many times it turns back and forth. I wonder what the exhaust temperature is at the stack? I know with my old hawken you could light a piece of paper on fire at the top of the chimney. It didn't make much smoke at full tilt but it was pushing all the heat out and couldn't transfer it into the water with everything coated with creosote. I kept using it for a couple of years while I scronged the pieces to put my eko with 1000 gallons of storage together. I sold the hawken and never looked back
By design, if it's not burning off the gasses it is going to make creosote that will hinder heat exchange no matter how many times it turns back and forth. I wonder what the exhaust temperature is at the stack? I know with my old hawken you could light a piece of paper on fire at the top of the chimney. It didn't make much smoke at full tilt but it was pushing all the heat out and couldn't transfer it into the water with everything coated with creosote. I kept using it for a couple of years while I scronged the pieces to put my eko with 1000 gallons of storage together. I sold the hawken and never looked back