Critique my stove/install plan

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Z

zituzupe

Member
Sep 22, 2016
17
Here
Hi folks,
I'm looking for a review of my stove installation plan. I live out in the sticks, so I'll need to order everything online. I'm looking for a stove to put in my basement that will serve as supplemental heat. I live in the great white north, and I had a few issues with my boiler last winter. 20 below and no heat with kids was not pleasant. I'm hoping to use the existing masonry chimney, which has a 6 x 6 clay tile liner. I've had it inspected and cleaned.

I'm leaning towards a 50-TRSSW01 Madison factory second from amfm-energy for $700.
(broken link removed to https://amfm-energy.myshopify.com/collections/timber-ridge-brand-new-factory-seconds-or-manufacturer-refurbished-stoves/products/epa-certified-madison-wood-stove-1250171200)

Questions

  • The existing thimble is 8 inch double wall. The stove uses 6 inch. I'm struggling to find an adapter (maybe I'm using the wrong search terms?) Here's a 6 x 8 increaser I found at Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-6-in-x-8-in-Black-Steel-Stove-Pipe-Increaser/3329948. I'm thinking I want a reducer so the male end fits the 6 inch female end, but I don't see those offered. Am I confused?
  • Probably making things more complicated, I think I need to stay double wall from the stove to the thimble to meet the side clearance. Plan B might be ripping out the paneling. Is that correct?
  • The stove is 34 1/8" tall and the bricks are 34". Do I need to add another row or two? The manual says the stove needs 7.5 inches to an unprotected surface. Does that mean if the paneling is further than that (by about 4 inches) it's fine?
  • There's a gap between the wall and the clean-out. I think that needs to be plugged to prevent it drawing air. What do folks use that's safe?
Thanks for the help.

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Can't be sure, but it looks like they used a section of class A pipe to tap into the chimney. If so it should have a 2" air gap between it and any combustible, not cement.

I'm wondering about draft and chimney sizing. What is the dimension of the chimney liner? Has the chimney been inspected by a certified sweep for safety and sizing?

Clearances are to the nearest combustible which is the wood paneling. There's no harm in exceeding clearances.
 
begreen said:
Can't be sure, but it looks like they used a section of class A pipe to tap into the chimney. If so it should have a 2" air gap between it and any combustible, not cement.

I'm wondering about draft and chimney sizing. What is the dimension of the chimney liner? Has the chimney been inspected by a certified sweep for safety and sizing?

Clearances are to the nearest combustible which is the wood paneling. There's no harm in exceeding clearances.
Click to expand...

I did have it inspected by a local chimney sweep. They mentioned the 2 inch clearance around double wall, but not that it should be an air gap. They recommended cutting away more of the paneling behind the thimble.

The chimney is lined with 6" x 6" tiles (36 square inches). The manual says the chimney can't be larger than 56.55 square inches, so I was hoping it would work.
 
Sounds like you are doing your homework. I'd follow the sweep's advice. The cleanout door can be remortared or at least fill the gap with silicone.
 
Last edited:
I'm going to occasionally post my progress here if that's OK. If anyone sees something that looks unsafe, please let me know. Thanks again for the help.

I cut the wood paneling back 2" from the pipe going through the wall, as suggested by the chimney sweep. It looks like one inch of foam board insulation against the cinder block with 1/4" plywood paneling on top of that. Maybe I should fill in the resulting gap with some fireproof insulation? The foam and paneling were not discolored from the previous owner's stove, so I guess that's a good sign.

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It's installed. I ultimately went with the TNC13 over the madison because I was about an inch short on clearance to the paneling. Some posts suggested that the layer of bricks (minimal air gap) would allow a decrease in the clearance, but I didn't want to chance it. I tested it today (60F and rainy), and it seems to draw fine. Thanks for the help/suggestions.

Parts List

Supervent 8" Stove Pipe Adapter, Class A Stainless Steel Chimney JSC8ASE
Selkirk 8" 90 Degree Elbow Black Stove Pipe DSP8E9-1
Selkirk 6" to 8" Increaser Black Stove Pipe DSPI68
Selkirk 6" Stove Adapter Black Stove Pipe DSP6SA-1
Selkirk 6" Adjustable Telescopic Length 12"-18" Black Stove Pipe DSP6AL-1

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Is that pipe coming through the wall just single wall stainless? If so you need way more clearance. Like 16" more
 
bholler said:
Is that pipe coming through the wall just single wall stainless? If so you need way more clearance. Like 16" more
Click to expand...

I think it's double wall class A chimney pipe. There's an inch of what sounds like solid insulation between the inner and outer pipe. It got warm but not hot over a couple hours.
 
zituzupe said:
I think it's double wall class A chimney pipe. There's an inch of what sounds like solid insulation between the inner and outer pipe. It got warm but not hot over a couple hours.
Click to expand...
Ok then you are fine
 
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