creosote already?

[DAKSY]

Most ceiling support boxes are square with smooth sides. What I've done in mobile home installations is to
cut the length of the box down, leaving the sides 2" longer than the thickness of the ceiling + the height of the ceiling joist. Cut vertically down the corner seams to that 2" location, then bend the excess OVER the joist & down the back side 1/2". Sort of an inverted "J"... Attach the support box to the joists with zipscrews thru the horizontal flat on TOP of them. This gives a pretty secure grip to support the weight of the Class A above it. Hopefully I said that in understandable terms...

 

[steve reynolds]

yes i just seen that i am going to have to go with selkirk stuff.. my stainless pipe is selkirk/metalbestos modell ss i am waiting on call now to get the box and snap connector for this pipe.
i just searched back this thread and i did say mobile home, not motor home..motor home is driveable this is not.

 

[steve reynolds]

yes daksy makes perfect since.. good idea.. i will probably have to cut it down to about 11 to 12 inches height anyway..dont know what sizes are available till they call. thanks for the tip will do that for sure.better than pre drilling and bolts!

 

[rdust]

i just searched back this thread and i did say mobile home, not motor home..motor home is driveable this is not.

This post here you said it...just sayin'. Glad to hear you're working on making the install meet code.

i have way over the clearances i have 36 inches or over in back and sides and obviously front is moot point. yes you are correct there is no support in ceiling as it would have been almost impossible to do in motor home.. i didnt really see a problem since i only have 2-- 3 ft sections of stainless and a 3 ft section of single wall black, we are only talking maybe 15 lbs on stove collar. and the outside air.... no i didnt install the outside air kit either because of all the drafts in these windows and doors.. if it was any where air tight then i would have purchased the outside air kit. no i do not get any spillage of smoke into house when i open it as long as i give a second after i open the flu.. if i open the flu and open door immediately then yes i get spillage for a second or two until it gets draft. up top i have at least 2 ft of pipe from anything 10 ft around it.

yes it has been very very mild here so far.. i immagine when we start getting constant teens and 20's it will run a hell of a lot better. but as of now i admit i have to run it very weak!
how often would you recomend cleaning this since i am having to run this way.. i mean it really isnt going to be that hard for me.. i only have to climb 14 ft and i am on roof!

i admit i had to skip a few minor steps like outside air and no ceiling support but i suspect it is very safe, i hope anyway! its not like the stove collar is holding up 8 sections of stain;ess at 100 lbs and its not like my house is air tight and this stove need outside air,, it is FAR from air tight and gets all the fresh air it needs.
thanks

 

[steve reynolds]

oops guess i did.. sorry my bad.. i was looking where i said mobile home in a couple dif spots, typo on my part.

 

[Trktrd]

With the proper installation and flue height that stove will perform correctly - meaning - cook you out of the house!! I'm heating a 16 x 80 with my little Ashley and keep the windows open all winter. Blaze Kings were intended for "Global" warming, not "Mobile" warming. I personally think a smaller stove is in order.

 

[steve reynolds]

yes i agree with the global warming.. i will have to try to find the burn sweet spot to run clean (as far as creosote) but as cool as possible.. if i have to crack a couple doors so be it, but honestly replacing stove is out of question this year. i got a heck of a deal on this stove for 200 bucks. couldnt pass it up. cant really afford another stove at this point.

 

[steve reynolds]

anyone know if double wall stove pipe is REQUIRED in mobile home? or is it just recomended? i have over 40 inchs of clearance from walls and will end up with about 18 inch from ceiling.

 

[steve reynolds]

ok placed the order... i would post the link from my email but it shows order # address and last four of credit card number and so here is just a link to the parts ordered to make the piping up to code..
doing the fresh air bolt down and ground this weekend.
http://www.sears.com/selkirk-8inch-...451874007P?sid=IEx20121213TransSearsOrderConf

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...pe=SC&sid=IEx20121213TransSearsOrderConf&eml=

by the way i have searched and searched about our code here and have not found anything that says i have to use double wall black stove pipe so i am going with the single wall since i have WAYYYY more than enough clearance all the way around and up..

if anyone finds anything different please let me know.

thanks for pretty much forcing me to do this )) i feel alot better about it already. will submit pics when done.

 

[Bub381]

You'll be lucky to find a sweet spot with too big of a stove.Doors open may cause smoke spillage from stove.BACKDRAFT.

 

[DanCorcoran]

Single-wall will radiate more heat into your mobile home than double-wall. Not sure that's what you want...

 

[firefighterjake]

Just a quick comment . . . it sounds as though you've seen the light and realize that most folks here are just trying to be helpful and offer good advice . . . and it sounds as though you are listening . . . stick around Steve . . . I can see you being an asset to this site in the future!

 

[begreen]

its ok it is not going to be a huge deal to just pre drill holes through the side of the ceiling rafter into ceiling support box and use bolts and nuts since it is going to be 8 inch hole at least i can get hand in to tighten nut..will send pics to satisfy when done.. will also satisfy my conscious..
not to stir the pot but just a fyi i still think the bolt down and ground wire is nutts!! but oh well its code..

You will need to frame the support box between the rafters. Use long decking screws to attach the 2x4s. No need to bolt in ceiling support box. 1" #10 screws have plenty enough sheer strength to support its weight.

Is the home on a permanent foundation? If so, it may no longer be considered a mobile home.

 

[steve reynolds]

You will need to frame the support box between the rafters. Use long decking screws to attach the 2x4s. No need to bolt in ceiling support box. 1" #10 screws have plenty enough sheer strength to support its weight.

Is the home on a permanent foundation? If so, it may no longer be considered a mobile home.

ok here we go, these are for everyone that was on me, i actually appreciate it. it made me get it done rite. the first pic with the round hole was where the stainless was coming into kitchen as you all seen before pics. and the second is almost finished.. i have to screw paneling back up and screw in the metal black finish pieces that came with it. i cut down on all four corners at top about an inch and folded metal out on to roof under the roof flashing and screwed it at ceiling level into ceiling rafters on all four sides.. just waiting on batteries on drill to recharge to put finish strips up. also getting ready to install the 3.5 inch flex tube for fresh air intake in a bit.. taking a break.. so can we now be friends heheheh thanks again!

 

[steve reynolds]

heres pics forgot to attach on last post

 

[DAKSY]

heres pics forgot to attach on last post

Looking GOOD (and SAFE)!

 

[fossil]

Excellent.

 

[steve reynolds]

i had it 2 ft higher than anything 10 ft around it to begin with but i got an additional 18 to 24 inches of length by doing this and the draft is much much better now for some reason!

 

[oldspark]

Cant wait to hear how it works when you get done, looking good though.

 

[fossil]

...the draft is much much better now for some reason!

Go figure!

 

[Heatsource]

didn't read the whole thread,
but- you dont need a ceiling support box if you installed a roof support package. with roof support you need a ceiling trim plate, not a support box....

 

[begreen]

Go figure!

LOL, we kind of expected that. Good work Steve, this is way safer. You and we will sleep a lot better tonight. The intent of the double-wall with this stove is to keep the flue gases hotter. You don't need any more heat. But by keeping the flue gases hotter there is less opportunity for creosote to condense in the pipe. Burn dry wood and I think you are going to be seeing a lot less creosote.

 

[steve reynolds]

just one more to show it off and i am done, thanks for all the help guys.

 

[firefighterjake]

A happy ending . . . just not that kind of happy ending. Looks good Steve.

 

[corey21]

just one more to show it off and i am done, thanks for all the help guys.

Congrats glad to know it is safe.