Thank you for all your advice.IMHO, rwhite and other previous posts have your answer on all counts. That crack clearly originates from the front leg of the stove, indicating problems with the install. Likely due to not leveling the floor and floating/screeding the mortar bed correctly. Or perhaps the mortar wasn't sufficiently cured and the weight of the stove caused the slab to deflect right in the middle of its length.
Just for clarity and confirmation did you observe the installer and can you describe the process used in completing the install?
For example, did your installer pull back all the carpet to one side of the room, then use some type of curbing to lay out the mortar bed with a level across the curbs first, screed the mortar bed off, then lay the slab, level it, lift it and back butter with just a portland cement mix and tamp back to level? Or did they simply cut the carpet, pour a bucket of mortar out and smear it around and then slap the slate on it? The former would likely have prevented the cracking and the later will increase the chances of a poor bed which will allow deflection and cracking. Any dips, hollows or voids under a slab that size and thickness will lead to problems.
That slab install should have sat for a minimum of one day and two would be much better before placing the stove.
It is his own business and he is qualified to install stoves and installs the hearths as well.The 48 hours you mentioned should have been the mortar set time and not the stove start time. If they set the stove within 2 hours I can guarantee it happened just as I stated. Was the installer a mason or stove installer (or jack of all trades and master of none?). Surely any mason worth his weight would have known. Even with a properly floated floor you don't put that kind of weight on mortar in 2 hours. Here is the thing I don't understand, this was a small job and I would think that if I were the contractor I would eat the cost rather than risk my reputation.
I can't believe he's sticking to his guns on this. You should be able to have a weight-watcher's tap-dancing party on top of a well-supported piece of stone without having it crack! Think about how thin slate tiles are, 3/8" to 7/16"? They're made to walk on, but don't crack when you mortar the substrate properly.It is his own business and he is qualified to install stoves and installs the hearths as well.
He has reported back to us he has done 1500 installations over the years.
He is adamant that the fault is ours as we stepped on the edge of the slate and caused the crack! He also states that the slate was in perfect condition when left. Well it would be...the stove wasn't lit then.
I agree, his reputation is at stake here.
We have a battle on our hands now. Thank you for backing us up with such good technical info and advice.
Your description of how the installer laid the cement and slab is EXACTLY what my very bad installer did. My saving grace was I already had a granite slab in front of the open fire that was there previously - the bit he added was just a hearth extension for the stove and that didn't actually have the stove sitting on it, otherwise I suspect I would have been in just the same position as you. What did happen to me though was the cement between the older slab and the new one in the front cracked and started crumbling badly... Reading your story just reminded me of that..Wow thank you for all your advice and help on this! Without you all I think we too would have cracked!!
My husband was present when he was installing and overheard him calling out the ratios of the mortar mix to his assistant. Apparently the 'muck' was not going off properly. We now know the consequence of that.
We are going to ask him for a third time to at least come out and assess his work. If he still refuses, we have to go through Citizens Advice Bureau and write to him with a view to taking him to small claims court.
We will be armed with all your technical info and cannot thank you enough for all you have done for us.
Saving grace... the wood burner is working beautifully. We spend most evenings fascinated by the woods and how differently they burn!
Wished we had bought one years ago.
Happy Holidays to you all, from a very wet and windy village in Kent!
Hopefully he will take it in the spirit in which it's meant when he reads that he is a "clown."Just point yer installer in the direction of this forum
Wow thank you for all your advice and help on this! Without you all I think we too would have cracked!!
My husband was present when he was installing and overheard him calling out the ratios of the mortar mix to his assistant. Apparently the 'muck' was not going off properly. We now know the consequence of that.
We are going to ask him for a third time to at least come out and assess his work. If he still refuses, we have to go through Citizens Advice Bureau and write to him with a view to taking him to small claims court.
We will be armed with all your technical info and cannot thank you enough for all you have done for us.
Saving grace... the wood burner is working beautifully. We spend most evenings fascinated by the woods and how differently they burn!
Wished we had bought one years ago.
Happy Holidays to you all, from a very wet and windy village in Kent!
Insanity: to follow the same method and expect a different result.He said he would not change his method. We sincerely hope that it works this time.
No, that is wrong. Bed slate in the damp (uncured) mortar to ensure full contact with back of slate. He may need to backbuttter the slate with mortar first or at least dampen backside of the stone. Tap down during install with rubber mallet and check for level.Yea sounds like the other issue that was posted on here dealing with slate. there's no reason to put the slate on while the motar is wet this is not a tile it's a flat peice of slate. It's got a stove on it. It's not going anywhere. The motar needs to be screed and allowed to dry then the put the slate on
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