Hello I have reading numerous threads to get some insight but we have no experience with a wood stove or the skills to do any of the labor involved in tear out or build.
After a few discussions with some stores that sell and install I still have questions. I will pay to have them come out to measure but I wanted that to be after hearing what they thought " looked like" it would work but needed confirmed by doing measurements .
Goal is to be able to heat WITHOUT electricity during a cold snap ( so no blowers I assume) in the event there was a disruption of natural gas or a furnace breakdown. This is in NE Ohio and although not routine, in 2015 we had minus - 17 F and we get these cold temps every so many years ( -11 to -20 F) actual temp not wind chill. The BTU calculator arrived at 120,000 BTU for the region, sq ft, good insulation, amt of double pane windows and a patio door in a colonial built in 1998. Looking at wood non cat due to reading ease of operation, no blowers and ability to hold over heat overnight if needed although this would not normally be the case. Read often after wood burning for comfort, many decide to use the wood burner more to offset heating the house for the winter. Like the look and type heat I have read on cast iron ( over steel ). I have seen the Pacific Energy Alderlea and very much like the idea of the ability to cook on the top if needed. I even like the idea of stoves that allow baking but have not found anything with the BTUs in that range or that would look appropriate in a not very rustic Family Room so far. Family room has a prefab firebox. Room is at the end of the house, exterior wall cantilevered alcove with a non masonry metal chimney pipe in a surround , clad in siding. I live in an association where all the chimneys are sided like this. My understanding is that the prefab unit and metal pipes going up the chimney would be taken out. If any of the alcove could be used partially to allow for more floor space that would be preferable but want to do what is safe and will work if we had a extended cold snap without a furnace or electricity. I saw in a thread on similar situation on wood stoves that say you can install in alcoves when the space was opened up further in height and perhaps the sides to meet manufacturers requirements for clearances. I have read steel could be used inside rather than wood studs to meet clearances. I am not concerned with having a TV above. I am more concerned with not having too large of a wood stove taking up floor space if looks too large for the room which is 15 wide x19 L. Regular height ceiling in this Family room but has two long double pane windows. It also has a large open entry to the adjoining kitchen which is only slightly narrower and that has a doorway entry to a Dining room. Dining room large open entry to Living room, open hallway to stairs no doors on either end. Wanting what would actually perform in event became sole heat in cold temps with no electricity. If we could keep the main floor somewhat comfortable at least, 9bedrooms are upstairs) and avoid bursting of water pipes in any part of the house, basement or upstairs . The family room with alcove prefab unit does not have any rooms above it, and the basement does not extend under it, except it probably just sits on the lip of the basement wall.
If taking out the alcove wall to the ceiling is necessary or preferable to do that is ok too. Want to know if doing any certain type of install with mentioned units would allow the stove to be placed closer to the exterior wall so as to not take up as much floor space. Currently there is a wood mantle and regular wall past that, but it does not have to stay that way, and could be re done in non combustibles. Does rear venting vs vertical venting or type install of either of these stoves make a difference as far as gaining floor space, either partially, if in or out of an opened/expanded alcove?
I have not seen the Jotul v 55 Carrabassett except in pics but read about it. It says it only requires ember protection. Says it rear vents . I think it is 88,000 BTU , hopefully has the air wash glass. Does the rear vent, only ember protection play into positioning it as to gain more floor space ? aside from its dimensions? or better fit ? We currently have floor tiles that extend 16 inch out from the front of the opening of the ZC FP and extend just as long as the FP mantle & side wood legs. The v 55 Jotul weighs less than the T6, and has slightly smaller width. Was wondering if size, rear vent, would fit better but still put out enough heat as wanted to prevent pipes bursting & heat the main floor in a particularly cold winter snap ? Can you use pots pans on top of it if needed to cook? Read somewhere about testing allowing for lower clearances done on this brand due to being used in Europe, and more commonly done there within existing fireplace space .
The PE Alderlea I have seen and like the ability to use the top for cooking. Obviously the swing arms would have to be able to be swung out and depending on the alcove and size unit you may or may not be able to do that. Even if setting in front of alcove does any of these stoves seem to be the better for the situation. Does the top vent ( PE stoves) or the rear vent ( Jotul v55 ) in this case give any better floor clearance ? but still give adequate heat needed?
The T6 is 99,000 BTU, the T5 is 72,000 , The FR is tacked on end of the house, does not have any of the second floor above it and the FP lip area may just sit over the basement wall but there is no basement below it. The FP alcove cantilevers out from the house as measured from the exterior siding 24 inches and the lower width before the chimney tapers & narrow is 59 inches wide outside. I need to measure how high before it tapers into the chimney stack.
There is also a weight difference with the Alderlea T 6 @ 585 lbs. being heaviest. T5-523 lbs. Jotul 55 Carrabassett 475 lbs. Mention because of the cantilevered alcove if used.
Want to know doing what type of install and stove would achieve what we are looking for. If it is redoing the size of the alcove, building out, whatever it is I would like to know . I have read of people not getting what they initially wanted and ending up tearing it out and redoing it later . If the heat output with our house (using the alcove) or opening it up or setting the stove in front of it. If none of these seem right option to not oversize the room but still avert pipes and people freezing, I would rather not spend the money if looking at the wrong option. But know it would be better than what I have now in prefab.
In my area there is not one dealer carrying both of these brands so I would have to get two estimates from two different stores who install them. And I was trying to narrow down which stove might look closer to working and go with that dealer. The dealer who carries the PE is cordial, has all good reviews but they are farther out about 100 miles and estimate to come out to measure is $160 and I could not get an answer on if I needed the higher120, 00 BTU or not as explained. They did not seem familiar as far as opening up an alcove and replacing with steel studs. It may of just been who I had spoke with that day and needed to speak to the installer , or I did not explain correctly. And maybe they would not do that type install. They did discuss the opening of the alcove to the ceiling but said it would not gain much floor space to be worth doing it , and to just set the stove in front of it. So if higher BTU s are needed, that would be a larger stove taking up more floor space and maybe that is the case, but I wanted to see if anything could be done on gaining floor space by using the alcove at all. Because seeing some doing on this site but do not know the output of their stoves. The other dealer that carries Jotul is much closer . I have been there in person three times and spoke to sales person, but missed the installers call twice ( babysitting ) but called back and did not get a return call back. I did not know about the v55 when we were out there, but have since read about it.
-Do I need 120,000 btu or will lower BTU still prevent pipes and people from freezing cold snap if no electricity....2076 sq ft colonial NE Ohio, unit in FR end of the house tacked on? The basement edge sits just where alcove opens to family room but does not extend under it but inches. The second story does not sit above it.
- rear vent vs top vent. Will this aid in getting better clearances especially depth? or make possible use of former ZC alcove to gain floor space?
- is it safe to use an alcove even partially if meet clearances but there is no blower, no electricity . I know there are very small non electric stove fans
- any suggestions on the stoves mentioned and if you think they would get us through an emergency without damage to the house pipes. and give us comfortable temp on the main floor , even if cooler upstairs
Thank you , sorry if did not provide useful info or posted incorrectly. First timer
CG
After a few discussions with some stores that sell and install I still have questions. I will pay to have them come out to measure but I wanted that to be after hearing what they thought " looked like" it would work but needed confirmed by doing measurements .
Goal is to be able to heat WITHOUT electricity during a cold snap ( so no blowers I assume) in the event there was a disruption of natural gas or a furnace breakdown. This is in NE Ohio and although not routine, in 2015 we had minus - 17 F and we get these cold temps every so many years ( -11 to -20 F) actual temp not wind chill. The BTU calculator arrived at 120,000 BTU for the region, sq ft, good insulation, amt of double pane windows and a patio door in a colonial built in 1998. Looking at wood non cat due to reading ease of operation, no blowers and ability to hold over heat overnight if needed although this would not normally be the case. Read often after wood burning for comfort, many decide to use the wood burner more to offset heating the house for the winter. Like the look and type heat I have read on cast iron ( over steel ). I have seen the Pacific Energy Alderlea and very much like the idea of the ability to cook on the top if needed. I even like the idea of stoves that allow baking but have not found anything with the BTUs in that range or that would look appropriate in a not very rustic Family Room so far. Family room has a prefab firebox. Room is at the end of the house, exterior wall cantilevered alcove with a non masonry metal chimney pipe in a surround , clad in siding. I live in an association where all the chimneys are sided like this. My understanding is that the prefab unit and metal pipes going up the chimney would be taken out. If any of the alcove could be used partially to allow for more floor space that would be preferable but want to do what is safe and will work if we had a extended cold snap without a furnace or electricity. I saw in a thread on similar situation on wood stoves that say you can install in alcoves when the space was opened up further in height and perhaps the sides to meet manufacturers requirements for clearances. I have read steel could be used inside rather than wood studs to meet clearances. I am not concerned with having a TV above. I am more concerned with not having too large of a wood stove taking up floor space if looks too large for the room which is 15 wide x19 L. Regular height ceiling in this Family room but has two long double pane windows. It also has a large open entry to the adjoining kitchen which is only slightly narrower and that has a doorway entry to a Dining room. Dining room large open entry to Living room, open hallway to stairs no doors on either end. Wanting what would actually perform in event became sole heat in cold temps with no electricity. If we could keep the main floor somewhat comfortable at least, 9bedrooms are upstairs) and avoid bursting of water pipes in any part of the house, basement or upstairs . The family room with alcove prefab unit does not have any rooms above it, and the basement does not extend under it, except it probably just sits on the lip of the basement wall.
If taking out the alcove wall to the ceiling is necessary or preferable to do that is ok too. Want to know if doing any certain type of install with mentioned units would allow the stove to be placed closer to the exterior wall so as to not take up as much floor space. Currently there is a wood mantle and regular wall past that, but it does not have to stay that way, and could be re done in non combustibles. Does rear venting vs vertical venting or type install of either of these stoves make a difference as far as gaining floor space, either partially, if in or out of an opened/expanded alcove?
I have not seen the Jotul v 55 Carrabassett except in pics but read about it. It says it only requires ember protection. Says it rear vents . I think it is 88,000 BTU , hopefully has the air wash glass. Does the rear vent, only ember protection play into positioning it as to gain more floor space ? aside from its dimensions? or better fit ? We currently have floor tiles that extend 16 inch out from the front of the opening of the ZC FP and extend just as long as the FP mantle & side wood legs. The v 55 Jotul weighs less than the T6, and has slightly smaller width. Was wondering if size, rear vent, would fit better but still put out enough heat as wanted to prevent pipes bursting & heat the main floor in a particularly cold winter snap ? Can you use pots pans on top of it if needed to cook? Read somewhere about testing allowing for lower clearances done on this brand due to being used in Europe, and more commonly done there within existing fireplace space .
The PE Alderlea I have seen and like the ability to use the top for cooking. Obviously the swing arms would have to be able to be swung out and depending on the alcove and size unit you may or may not be able to do that. Even if setting in front of alcove does any of these stoves seem to be the better for the situation. Does the top vent ( PE stoves) or the rear vent ( Jotul v55 ) in this case give any better floor clearance ? but still give adequate heat needed?
The T6 is 99,000 BTU, the T5 is 72,000 , The FR is tacked on end of the house, does not have any of the second floor above it and the FP lip area may just sit over the basement wall but there is no basement below it. The FP alcove cantilevers out from the house as measured from the exterior siding 24 inches and the lower width before the chimney tapers & narrow is 59 inches wide outside. I need to measure how high before it tapers into the chimney stack.
There is also a weight difference with the Alderlea T 6 @ 585 lbs. being heaviest. T5-523 lbs. Jotul 55 Carrabassett 475 lbs. Mention because of the cantilevered alcove if used.
Want to know doing what type of install and stove would achieve what we are looking for. If it is redoing the size of the alcove, building out, whatever it is I would like to know . I have read of people not getting what they initially wanted and ending up tearing it out and redoing it later . If the heat output with our house (using the alcove) or opening it up or setting the stove in front of it. If none of these seem right option to not oversize the room but still avert pipes and people freezing, I would rather not spend the money if looking at the wrong option. But know it would be better than what I have now in prefab.
In my area there is not one dealer carrying both of these brands so I would have to get two estimates from two different stores who install them. And I was trying to narrow down which stove might look closer to working and go with that dealer. The dealer who carries the PE is cordial, has all good reviews but they are farther out about 100 miles and estimate to come out to measure is $160 and I could not get an answer on if I needed the higher120, 00 BTU or not as explained. They did not seem familiar as far as opening up an alcove and replacing with steel studs. It may of just been who I had spoke with that day and needed to speak to the installer , or I did not explain correctly. And maybe they would not do that type install. They did discuss the opening of the alcove to the ceiling but said it would not gain much floor space to be worth doing it , and to just set the stove in front of it. So if higher BTU s are needed, that would be a larger stove taking up more floor space and maybe that is the case, but I wanted to see if anything could be done on gaining floor space by using the alcove at all. Because seeing some doing on this site but do not know the output of their stoves. The other dealer that carries Jotul is much closer . I have been there in person three times and spoke to sales person, but missed the installers call twice ( babysitting ) but called back and did not get a return call back. I did not know about the v55 when we were out there, but have since read about it.
-Do I need 120,000 btu or will lower BTU still prevent pipes and people from freezing cold snap if no electricity....2076 sq ft colonial NE Ohio, unit in FR end of the house tacked on? The basement edge sits just where alcove opens to family room but does not extend under it but inches. The second story does not sit above it.
- rear vent vs top vent. Will this aid in getting better clearances especially depth? or make possible use of former ZC alcove to gain floor space?
- is it safe to use an alcove even partially if meet clearances but there is no blower, no electricity . I know there are very small non electric stove fans
- any suggestions on the stoves mentioned and if you think they would get us through an emergency without damage to the house pipes. and give us comfortable temp on the main floor , even if cooler upstairs
Thank you , sorry if did not provide useful info or posted incorrectly. First timer
CG
