Yes i agree. But saying it takes 2 years doesnt help. There are just to many variables to give it a time. New burners should get a moisture meter so they know what they have what they are buying etc.
Consolidated Dutchwest - struggling
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That would be me, but I’m eager to learn the details.
Update: still running the stove, I’m at a slow burn with bypass gate closed, over fire draft open five turns, and under fire draft slightly open to get reloaded wood To get going. Combustor temp is holding at 600 F, stove surface at 250 F.
Not sure if it’s still leaking smoke; could be residual from last incident. I see it’s leaking where stove pipe meets horizontal connector to chimney (anchor screws missing).
I totally agree with you.
Most do not know what MC is or what moisture level of dry wood should be.
We are on the same page here for sure...
Hi everyone, an update:
Finally figured out how to operate the stove properly. It smoked out half the house the night I was posting here last, so I shut it down and have not run it since. I do not trust the stove, chimney, whatever the issues are to not do that again. I do know that the combustor is half crumbled and there may be other issues going on that I’m not even aware of yet internally.
I may also have some chimney issues, according to some wood stove pros, based on how I described what happened. They also said there’s a good chance the stove itself needs work, parts are expensive and not easy to get. Basically, don’t bother putting any money into it.
It is a Consolidated Dutchwest Sequoia, FYI.
Not sure what to do at this point. I could have someone come inspect the chimney and maybe that’s causing the smoke issues, but that still leaves me with a 25 year old CW stove that apparently no one wants, is expensive to fix.
Any thoughts?
Finally figured out how to operate the stove properly. It smoked out half the house the night I was posting here last, so I shut it down and have not run it since. I do not trust the stove, chimney, whatever the issues are to not do that again. I do know that the combustor is half crumbled and there may be other issues going on that I’m not even aware of yet internally.
I may also have some chimney issues, according to some wood stove pros, based on how I described what happened. They also said there’s a good chance the stove itself needs work, parts are expensive and not easy to get. Basically, don’t bother putting any money into it.
It is a Consolidated Dutchwest Sequoia, FYI.
Not sure what to do at this point. I could have someone come inspect the chimney and maybe that’s causing the smoke issues, but that still leaves me with a 25 year old CW stove that apparently no one wants, is expensive to fix.
Any thoughts?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
There seems to be a lot of info here... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/consolidated-dutchwest-wood-coal-stove.85153/
New to the forum? Seems to me I remember member CDWBurner from years ago, like back in the Battenkiller days...??
The combustor could be dirty and need cleaning or replaceing. The manual should tell you what to look for and how to remove it. If you haven't cleaned the chimney or had it cleaned before using the stove it should be done before you use it anymore. Even if the stove is junk and you want another one, you need a proper chimney.
Nope, just found the forum a few weeks ago as I was looking for answers to this wood stove that requires a PhD. to operate.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
If I had a 25 year old wood/coal stove that had known issues even when brand new, the repair budget would be $0.
You can get a basic, large, well-liked stove for under $1000. The NC30 is $900 on homedepot.com right now, and at least one of its variants will probably be available for cheaper as we go into spring.
If your budget is higher, there's plenty of fancier stoves out there to choose from.
No matter what you do- new stove, old stove- you need to inspect and clean the flue. Make sure it's vented properly and that the pipe is not full of creosote/bird nests/etc.
The center of the combustor is crumbled and needs to be replaced, that I know. Please see the attached pic.
I found one online for $135, and OEM is $200.
Thing is, I don't know what else this stove needs. Could need a whole bunch more work at high prices with an uncertain parts supply. Not to mention, the chimney itself may be the problem (wood stove shop suggested the chimney may be the main issue). So...with a stove that is uncertain, a chimney that is uncertain, and a trial and error process that involves pouring smoke into my living room, I do not know what to do or where to start. Therefore, I am just not doing anything yet until a first step makes sense to me. That's why I am here.
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I had the Dutchwest version of that same stove and fought with it for six or seven years. It was given to me by a neighbor - which turned out to be too high a price. The stove is rife with design issues, although in their defense the design of cat stoves was in its infancy at the time. By now your stove also needs every gasket replaced and every seam cemented. And if anything has warped over time (likely), none of that is going to help.
There is no way I would put the cost of a new cat in one. In fact, I didn't. When my cat needed replacement again I bought an Englander 30 nch. If that is too large a stove for you, the Englander 13 nch is $699 at Home Depot. Both are outstanding performers.
There is no way I would put the cost of a new cat in one. In fact, I didn't. When my cat needed replacement again I bought an Englander 30 nch. If that is too large a stove for you, the Englander 13 nch is $699 at Home Depot. Both are outstanding performers.
Well that's a problem and the rest of the stove may be in the same shape. May be best to go to another stove and redo the chimney if your set on burning wood.
Just inspected the chimney and discovered the access panel underneath had fallen off and was buried in the snow. BTW, this is metal chimney, triple-walled, completely outside. Would this panel being missing have contributed to smoke backing up and back drafting out of the stove? Just common sense dictates that it would, knowing the pressure difference, with any heat going up drawing in cold air from the exposed bottom and interfering with the draft.
Just checked out the 13. Looks great, thanks for the lead. Same size as current CDW so I’m sure it is a big enough unit - current setup heats 1500 of my 2000 square feet.
The only installation concern is that this is a top exhaust and my configuration with the Sequoia is through the back.
There are some other steel-boxl stoves with jackets that rear-vent, but they may want some rise before going into the thimble, I don't know. Quadra-fire (Explorer) and Jotul (Greenville, Rangeley, Carrabassett) are two brands that come to mind. They are pricier than the Englander 13, though. To put a top-vent stove in, I guess you have to tap into the chimney higher up maybe?
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