Clearance Assistance BK Ashford 30.2

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Center of stove pipe Side to wall is: 26.5"

Front of stove pipe front to wall is: 22"

If my drawing is correct, and you have a 6" stove pipe in use now (i.e. the radius is 3"), then I think this (stove and wall clearance) is ok with the Ashford.
Because 26.5" > C in the manual, and 22" - 3" = 19" > D in the manual

[Hearth.com] Clearance Assistance BK Ashford 30.2
 
Regarding the hearth, it should extend 16" in front of the stove. I can't find L in the manual, but it should be 16" + L in front of the center of the stove pipe, and thus 16 + L + 19 from the back wall.
 
Yes, a 6" stove pipe, but this is where I took the measurements.View attachment 280942

ah, ok. Then the clearance to the side wall is not enough. To the back wall it is ok.
If you can add a 30 degree offset "wiggle" in the stove that moves it at least 3.5" away from the side wall, you would be ok (without having to move the hole in the ceiling).
Though the aesthetics of that is a personal issue.
 
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Regarding the hearth, it should extend 16" in front of the stove. I can't find L in the manual, but it should be 16" + L in front of the center of the stove pipe, and thus 16 + L + 19 from the back wall.
Just for clarification, that is 16" in front of the stove glass, not the ash lip. There is no harm if there is more hearth in front of the stove.
ah, ok. Then the clearance to the side wall is not enough. To the back wall it is ok.
There will be if the BK is scooted over a couple of inches.
 
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Which letter are you using to get that measurement?

C. You measured 22" but it should be 25.5" - edited to correct to 25.5
Hence the offset suggestion (which is also implied in @begreen s latest remark).
 
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The letters C and D. These are to the center of the stove pipe.
 
You may be tempted to just flex the long interior pipe to get those few needed inches. That crooked pipe would drive me nuts. The offset should go at the ceiling since BK wants two or three feet vertical before the first bend.

The ashford especially seems to need a very good draft so please meet or exceed the chimney requirements and recommendations in the manual.
 
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What is the measurement to the original wall? Without the tin and extra framing? Curious.
 
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What is the measurement to the original wall? Without the tin and extra framing? Curious.

The tin and concrete board or whatever that is called, is 1.5". The previous owner of the house had tile behind the woodstove that apparently fell off. Or was taken off. We made the hearth bigger when we moved in and added the tin.
 
You may be tempted to just flex the long interior pipe to get those few needed inches. That crooked pipe would drive me nuts. The offset should go at the ceiling since BK wants two or three feet vertical before the first bend.

The Ashford especially seems to need a very good draft so please meet or exceed the chimney requirements and recommendations in the manual.

We may not have any choice to add the bend in the pipe if we go with the Ashford. Is it ideal, no, but that is a small price to pay instead of building a whole new hearth.

My hubby said there may be enough space in the attic potion to scootch the stove pipe over to where it needs to be, without causing an issue. Or maybe including the bend in that area. If either of these options are safe that is.
 
So BOTH C & D count towards the stovepipe placement? I thought it was either C or D, based on the set up you had.

C is from center stove pipe to a side wall. D from center stove pipe to the back wall.
 

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C is from center stove pipe to a side wall. D from center stove pipe to the back wall.

We have already discussed that this isn't an alcove install, this is a parallel install. So, shouldn't F be the stovepipe clearance number? Aren't C & D only applicable in an alcove install?
 

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Not to my understanding; the geometry of heat exposure changes dramatically when angling a stove in a corner as in the left pic here. This is not the case for your stove which is parallel to the walls.

That is my understanding, but I admit that the manual is not entirely clear on the difference between a corner install and an angled corner install.
 

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Not to my understanding; the geometry of heat exposure changes dramatically when angling a stove in a corner as in the left pic here. This is not the case for your stove which is parallel to the walls.

That is my understanding, but I admit that the manual is not entirely clear on the difference between a corner install and an angled corner install.

I agree. I wish they had a diagram reflecting a parallel install, or at least told what letters you needed for one.
 
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This install is a parallel wall installation though actually, it looks like a lot of the stove may be in front of the wing wall. The manual is clear, and the noted C & D are the guiding distances from the flue centerline. Just forget about alcove or corner installations. It does not apply to this installation.
 
Your install is a parallel wall installation though actually it looks like a lot of the stove may be in front of the wing wall. The manual is clear, and the noted C & D are the guiding distances from the flue centerline.

Ok, I think I am understanding this, finally!

So, for my install, I need to adhere to the measurements in letters A (sides to walls), B (heat sheild/fan to wall) C (center of the flue to side walls), D (center of the flue to the rear wall), and H (the opening for the door).

E, F, and J don't apply because it isn't a corner install.

Do I have this correct? Did I miss any letters? LOL
 
I don’t have the manual in front of me but verify where B is measured from. It has traditionally been the back of the thermostat cover which is inboard of the optional fans.
 
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