I didnt think it would be. Yes if true it is probably not a thing to do. I never had to try it but I would if it came to that. A very small test area would be prudent.
Cleaning glass and how to keep clean
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I didnt think it would be. Yes if true it is probably not a thing to do. I never had to try it but I would if it came to that. A very small test area would be prudent.
I use imperial clear flame or rutland, only do it when I clean the ashes out on the old harman once every week or two depending on the weather
hickoryhoarder
Minister of Fire
I clean it any time the window is not warm, there's not warm coals. That makes it easy. I go over it quickly with 1/2 a paper towel sprayed with 7th generation multipurpose cleaner, very mild. A second time with the other 1/2 towel. Dry with 1/2 a paper towel.
I like to burn super clean fires, and a side effect is very little film is on the window.
I like to burn super clean fires, and a side effect is very little film is on the window.
I use Weilands Glass Cleaner (about $3 for 16 ounces at at Walmart) to clean the window on my insert each morning. Apply a little cleaner
to newspaper (preferably a liberal rag like in my town) rub off the carbon in circles, rinse with dampened paper and wipe clean with paper. Takes about 10 minutes tops. Its the same stuff my wife uses to clean the stove cooktop, which probably is the same material as the insert's window. One container lasts two seasons. Other methods are wet ash and newspaper (more time consuming but free), oven cleaner (works when all else fails, but wear a mask, open the window and protect surrounding area) and razor ( ok for heavy carbon deposit but concerns with glass scratch). Clear glass and flaming wood warms the soul a little more.
I am not sure of the "best" way, but I like to use plain water on a damp (not soaking wet) paper towel to wipe ash and light residue off the glass when the glass is cool (or at least not hot). I fold the towel a few times to get a fresh clean towel surface over a few passes over the glass. For tougher deposits I use super fine (0000) steel wool. I am not sure if the ceramic glass manufacturers have any issue with using steel wool but I never noticed any adverse effects over 12 years. I also avoid getting too close to gaskets when I am cleaning the glass.
My system tends to produce some residue on the glass even though I burn very dry wood (my draft could be better). Residue like creosote on your glass can also be an indication that your wood isn't seasoned enough.
As I mentioned, on the tough stuff I use a scouring pad that says "safe for ceramic stovetops." Even then, I've read about coatings that some makers apply to the glass, and wonder if the scouring pad would compromise those. That said, the more often you clean your glass, the less likely it is that you'll have to deal with baked-on deposits that are harder to remove.
Yeah, I don't want any moisture running down into the gaskets..I worry that it will make them hard and crusty, and they won't seal as well.
I left mine go too long ,nothing would clean it so as a last resort i tried a razor blade scraper. The haze finally came off without any visible scratches from the blade. It is rough going though even with the blade,i keep wondering it its less trouble just to replace the glass . Englander wants $180 for a door glass. The cut to order guys $99.
Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
mpaul
Burning Hunk
Mr Clean Magic Erasers work great to clean up the stubborn spots. Otherwise paper towel with the fireplace ash for general cleaning.
Ill have to try that but its not just a little black creosote, its a white haze and its really baked on. Very hard to come off even with a singe edge razer blade scraper. Usually the Rutland Hearth spray i use takes off the day to day stains easily. Replacement glass is WAY too expensive. Only paid $700 for the stove new, shouldnt have to shell out almost $200 for a door glass. Iv cleaned most of it off so far and in the future ill make sure i keep it clean.
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I thought thats what happened, but it does come off with a lot of elbow grease so its not etched yet.If you leave it on there too long, the glass will etch.
I use a razor blade on the BK glass. The deposits in the bottom corners can be thick like tree bark so rubbing ash is a wasted effort. Then I clean up with rutland blue paste. Seems to work well. No scratches because you use the whole cutting edge of the blade.
Touch0Gray
Member
Aa really hot fire keeps mine clean. However, mine is NOT glass, it is it clear ceramic from what I have read. If it get sooted up, I wait until morning and it is under 200 degrees and spray it with glass cleaner and wipe with newspaper. Mostly has burned ash on it here is a picture of it "dirty" by morning that will brush right off
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No wood stove uses glass ,glass would melt. Its just easier to refer to it as glass than saying " clear ceramic panel" .
Touch0Gray
Member
sorry my grandfather was a glazing contractor and my father was a glazing contractor and I worked with glass for years. Glass is glass and ceramic is not. I guess it's just a bad habit of mine. I spent 0ver 40 years with a torch in my hand, materials and high temperatures are just part of me. Calling it a window is accurate, calling it glass is not. Btw, I see your location as Eastern central PA, I was born and raised in PA.....a bit west of central, I miss the Appalachian mountains every day.
danham
Burning Hunk
The key when using spray-on cleaners is to let it soak into the stains for 2-5 minutes. I use an old sponge to make sure the worst areas get good and wet with the cleaner. After a few minutes, I wipe with that sponge rinsed out, then dry with paper towel to rub out any remaining stuff.
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