Chimney Question...

[o0_Rayne_0o]

Haha yeah then we would be super toasty

 

[Shari]

We actually have 4 seperate chimney's in one chimney. One hole goes to the basement, one to the livingroom, one to the kitchen and one to the bedroom.

Get a pro out there to check out what you have. Four connections to one chimney is NOT considered safe per today's National Fire Codes. Example: You hook up the stove in the basement, exhaust fumes exit up the chimney and if ANY of the other 3 exits leak you and yours will just not wake up some morning.

PLEASE; Be safe - have a pro check things out before you light any fire.

 

[o0_Rayne_0o]

I don't think any of the chimney's connect its just a tube up from each fireplace

 

[begreen]

I told him I thought that too but he said no lol because the bottom piece of pipe just was not fitting so I thought he had it upside down.

Ya know, I should have waited til after coffee. Looking at this again it appears he may have it correct. If so, my error. Sorry.

Have the chimney properly checked for integrity and cleared of any obstructions. Also, it's important to know the inner dimensions of the flue. The stove requires 6" pipe or ~28 sq in. area. You don't want the flue to exceed 2.5x that area or 70 sq in.

2. Flue Size
The proper flue size is determined by measuring the inside diameter of the flue collar on the unit. This stove is equipped with a six inch (6”) TOP EXHAUST FLUE COLLAR. Therefore, the connector pipe should be six inches (6”) and never less in diameter than the collar on the stove. Your unit may require an adapter (AC-1677) which will reduce the 6” connector pipe by 1/8”. This is necessary to accommodate pipe variation from different manufacturers and maintain a good seal. The area of the chimney liner must also be equal to or greater than the area of the flue collar on the stove. If the area of the flue is greater than the collar, it should never be more than two and 1/2 (2.5) times greater.

 

[dmmoss51]

What room is directly above the stove?? Would it be feasible to put in a floor trap to allow warm convection to rise and maybe leaving the basement door open or something else as a ruturn...

Definitely get the chimney squared away before you get too far into all these other suggestions though.

 

[o0_Rayne_0o]

The kitchen is directly above the stove, the basement door is also in the kitchen. We were thinking of cutting a hole directly above the stove and putting in a floor register so the heat can rise up through it.

 

[Shari]

I don't think any of the chimney's connect its just a tube up from each fireplace

Get a pro to tell you - don't guess.

 

[dmmoss51]

Yep that would be a floor trap... bad thing about a kitchen floor is avoiding having stuff go down it when sweeping etc. I bought a house with an existing install I didn't dare run it until I had it checked out. I had a professional chimney sweep come out and take a look. Turned out everything was great. He did not sweep the chimney on that visit because it didn't need it. We installed a rain cap to help keep water birds nests etc out and he gave me some good advice for running the stove. The inspection and the rain cap install ran $120. Turns out I could have just installed the rain cap from Menards and save about $100, but piece of mind is priceless.

 

[Shari]

The kitchen is directly above the stove, the basement door is also in the kitchen. We were thinking of cutting a hole directly above the stove and putting in a floor register so the heat can rise up through it.

Any registers cut into the floor should have fusible link dampers installed to comply with code and to keep your family safe. A pro installer will guide you.

 

[dmmoss51]

I suppose that makes since as the floor is a fire break having holes in it defeats the purpose.

 

[Grisu]

We don't plan on finishing the basement, the ceiling is already really low and the moisture would prob cause mold growth on any insulation/walls we would install. Whoever owned the house in the past actually installed cabinets down there and when we had the home inspected for the mortgage the guy said that those cabinets are full of mold and not to touch them that as long as we leave them alone they are fine because the mold is inactive but that to have them removed it would take special care. Our neighbors all have the exact same layout of house and wood burners and they said they get plenty of heat from their burner in the basement so that is what we were going off of. We actually have 4 seperate chimney's in one chimney. One hole goes to the basement, one to the livingroom, one to the kitchen and one to the bedroom.

Are you sure you want to channel warm air from a moist basement with mold problems up to your living area? What keeps you from installing the stove upstairs when you already have connections to your chimney?
Did you take a look at the size of your neighbors' stoves? Size matters ... at least for woodstoves.

 

[dmmoss51]

I think some bleach solution and some care will do wonders on that mold imo.

 

[o0_Rayne_0o]

Well like I said before the mold is dormant. We just can't go in and rip out the cabinets or it would cause issues

 

[Shari]

Well like I said before the mold is dormant. We just can't go in and rip out the cabinets or it would cause issues

Add heat to the environment and that mold may wake up real quick.

 

[o0_Rayne_0o]

Oh also we didnt install it upstairs because then we would need to buy the stuff to guard the walls and floor from heat we figured the basement was already equipped

 

[dmmoss51]

With the money you saved on the stove, buy the extra stuff... I think you will be happier with it upstairs. Plus this stove has that nice pretty glass from front put it where you can see it

 

[firefighterjake]

Definitely get a sweep to check everything out first . . .