Did you notice how he kept having to relight the paper?? And reopen the door?? That means there is no draft. If your stove ran like that in your house it would fill the place with smoke quickly.
Chimney Liner Validation
- Thread starter ColdNorCal
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Did you notice how he kept having to relight the paper?? And reopen the door?? That means there is no draft. If your stove ran like that in your house it would fill the place with smoke quickly.
What do you think about this one. 0:45 mark.
Regarding insulating the flu in my chimney, has anyone ever used Ceramic Insulation Blanket. The price point is good and it will provide a lot of extra material to insulate the damper block plate. It can be held against the flu liner by wrapping stainless wire around it, circling the entire flu from top to bottom. Top and bottom locations can be held with some aluminum screen mesh and either wire or a couple clamps. Keep in mind the stainless liner length is only ~12' from top of block off plate to chimney top plate and I have lots of room inside the flu. And, I already have some of these materials for install.
I have used this material in motorcycle baffles/mufflers. It can take heat and has some structure to it.
Regarding insulating the flu in my chimney, has anyone ever used Ceramic Insulation Blanket. The price point is good and it will provide a lot of extra material to insulate the damper block plate. It can be held against the flu liner by wrapping stainless wire around it, circling the entire flu from top to bottom. Top and bottom locations can be held with some aluminum screen mesh and either wire or a couple clamps. Keep in mind the stainless liner length is only ~12' from top of block off plate to chimney top plate and I have lots of room inside the flu. And, I already have some of these materials for install.
I have used this material in motorcycle baffles/mufflers. It can take heat and has some structure to it.
- Aluminosilicate Ceramic Fiber Blanket 6lb/ft3 (96kg/m3)
- Non-reactive with moisture (unlike mineral wool and vermiculite)
- 2300F (1260C) Maximum Temperature, 2100F Continuous Use
- Can be cut by knife or with heavy scissors
- Excellent high temperature insulator
What about that one it lookes to be a properly installed regency insert that he still has trouble lighting normally.
That is basically the same stuff sold to insulate liners but it needs to be faced with heavy foil. If not it will disintegrate and fall down onto your insert being worthless. And unless it is a ul listed product designed and tested to insulate the liner you are installing it will not meet code.
Is this style of liner good? It requires a few sheet metal screws, 8 to be exact, rather then the easier clamp style for adapter and cap. Its $50 less then the other style and I have more time then money 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Inch-X20...403158?hash=item3d59c9cf96:g:ki0AAOSwYIhWjtp1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Inch-X20...403158?hash=item3d59c9cf96:g:ki0AAOSwYIhWjtp1
AlbergSteve
Minister of Fire
Uninsulated. Wouldn't touch it.Is this style of liner good? It requires a few sheet metal screws, 8 to be exact, rather then the easier clamp style for adapter and cap. Its $50 less then the other style and I have more time then money
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Inch-X20...403158?hash=item3d59c9cf96:g:ki0AAOSwYIhWjtp1
It will be insulated. Interested in the question I asked:
Is this style of liner good? It requires a few sheet metal screws, 8 to be exact, rather then the easier clamp style for adapter and cap. Its $50 less then the other style and I have more time then money"
A thin liner like that is not best held by screws. A good liner stove adapter and top cap will have clamps to secure the liner.
It is not ul listed. It lists no brand so you would not know what insulation was approved to use. It is lightwall liner so screws wont hold you need clamps. And they accept no returns or refunds. So no it is not a good liner.Is this style of liner good? It requires a few sheet metal screws, 8 to be exact, rather then the easier clamp style for adapter and cap. Its $50 less then the other style and I have more time then money
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Inch-X20...403158?hash=item3d59c9cf96:g:ki0AAOSwYIhWjtp1
There are liners that are heavy enough to be held by screws although rivets are better. But if you are looking at lightwall liners they just are not.
No problem. Keep on asking. We want your installation to be safe, long lasting and to work well.
Not sure if I should start a new thread(s) as I have a couple other questions indirectly related to this thread title.
1 - Does using heated air from inside the fire box reduce stove efficiency? The wood stove draws combustible air from the bottom. It would have 10" side clearance, 6" in rear, 6" on top and 3" on the bottom. The wood stove would be elevated off the fire box bottom about 3", it would not sit flat.
2 - Their is a lot of thermal mass surrounding the chimney box and I would like to utilize it. I read that stove pipe temps, non-cat, can be well over 600 degrees closest to the wood stove.
My thought is, allowing the hot pipe "above" the damper block off plate to heat up the ash shelf area. The ash shelf area could be blocked off from the upper flu with rockwool. Heating this area could heat up the chimney in the front. But more importantly, heat up the chimney/adobe wall in the rear which is where the master bedroom is. The chimney is internal and completely surrounded with adobe bricks, up to ceiling level, making a nice large thermal mass
To maintain code, does the liner insulation have to be installed within 24" (I read 24" in the code but not sure if I understood it correctly) of the combustibles? For example, if the combustible wood touching the chimney is 8' ceiling height, then insulation has to be 24" above and below that contact point?
Any other suggestions welcomed. I briefly considered knocking out the rear of the fire box and the adobe attached to it and install a vent. This could provide warm air directly to the master.
1 - Does using heated air from inside the fire box reduce stove efficiency? The wood stove draws combustible air from the bottom. It would have 10" side clearance, 6" in rear, 6" on top and 3" on the bottom. The wood stove would be elevated off the fire box bottom about 3", it would not sit flat.
2 - Their is a lot of thermal mass surrounding the chimney box and I would like to utilize it. I read that stove pipe temps, non-cat, can be well over 600 degrees closest to the wood stove.
My thought is, allowing the hot pipe "above" the damper block off plate to heat up the ash shelf area. The ash shelf area could be blocked off from the upper flu with rockwool. Heating this area could heat up the chimney in the front. But more importantly, heat up the chimney/adobe wall in the rear which is where the master bedroom is. The chimney is internal and completely surrounded with adobe bricks, up to ceiling level, making a nice large thermal mass
To maintain code, does the liner insulation have to be installed within 24" (I read 24" in the code but not sure if I understood it correctly) of the combustibles? For example, if the combustible wood touching the chimney is 8' ceiling height, then insulation has to be 24" above and below that contact point?
Any other suggestions welcomed. I briefly considered knocking out the rear of the fire box and the adobe attached to it and install a vent. This could provide warm air directly to the master.
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Just insulate the whole liner. You dont want to give up heat from the pipe you heat with the stove not the pipe. And yes a pipe can be 600 degrees but it shouldnt be that means you are wasting tons of heat.
With an exterior chimney most of the heat absorbed by the mass of the fireplace will be drawn outdoors. That is why the insulated block-off plate and if possible some insulation behind the stove is beneficial. Note that stuffing rockwool around the flue at the damper plate will not be as effective as that combined with a metal blockoff plate. Rockwool (Roxul) by itself will let air pass through it.
This is interiour though so i would not insulate behind the stove. I would still do a blockoff plate though
Thank you for keeping others straight on this.
I agree, no reason to insulate the chimney back. Maybe some heat transfer will occur to the rear of chimney/adobe into master bedroom.
What do you think about this. Using the heated air that is inside the chimney box for the stove air used to combustion? This would be when using a free standing wood stove as an insert. No surround and lots of side and top clearance.
1 - Does using heated air from inside the fire box reduce stove efficiency? The wood stove draws combustible air from the bottom. It would have 10" side clearance, 6" in rear, 6" on top and 3" on the bottom. The wood stove would be elevated off the fire box bottom about 3", it would not sit flat.
No reason it would lower the efficency unless you were comparing it to an outside air intake.
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