Chainsaw without a brake?
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No big safety speech here or derogatory comments . . . I'll just echo what another member said and say that I may not be perfect in how I cut my wood and what I do . . . but I don't run a saw without a chain brake . . . just my own preference.
fjord said:
hehehe
My insurance co requires all PPE and safety devices be maintained. I'm required to list all job sites before work starts so that unscheduled inspections may occur (to make sure PPE and safe cutting practices are being used) I'll bet you didn't know they even evaluate your stumps on a job site to make sure you are using their training.
I never said I didn't use every safety device available.
I have encouraged taking safety or GOL courses here.
You on the other hand have poo poo'd people for not using all safety devices and referred to them as Forest Gump (I'm guessing you meant mentally deficient ).
From your posts about GOL training ,,,at best I'm guessing you took level 1 and/or had a friend who did and briefed you on the basics. You certainly didn't take all 4 levels.
As far as the saw with no chain brake. It's not my place to condemn someone who wants a saw without.
Make sure YOU sign a DNR or insurance waiver just in case you have a heart attack or life threatening health problems due to smoking, drinking, or eating too much red meat. OHHHHHHH,,,, I forgot you don't have any unsafe habits because you are the Oral Roberts of safety. Sorry,,, NOT!
LEE
You say 'mentally deficient' like it's a bad thang :cheese:
Personally, I'd prefer peep thought of me as Forrest Gump, than Oral Roberts.
More people oughta' sign DNR's. Think of all the health care costs we could save.
Reminds me of Sharkey's Machine, when Bert says "You're just a little sheit in a toilet bowl, and I've got my hand on the flusher, and I'm gonna pull that chain, and you're gonna end up in the ash can . . ."
Personally, I'd prefer peep thought of me as Forrest Gump, than Oral Roberts.
More people oughta' sign DNR's. Think of all the health care costs we could save.
Reminds me of Sharkey's Machine, when Bert says "You're just a little sheit in a toilet bowl, and I've got my hand on the flusher, and I'm gonna pull that chain, and you're gonna end up in the ash can . . ."
southbound said:028 Is a great firewood saw! There are plenty of them still around and parts will be a easy find... Find out why the brake does not work and fix it... (broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/USED-STIHL-Brake-Band-Accessories-model-028-saws-/270673296323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0562bbc3)
As for the 028 and the 038 and the good ole 41's and so on not being pro saws well that's easy, when they built these saws they were all pro saws
I would jump on a 028 for $50..In fact let me know if you don't buy it
J that 880 has changed you manlol.........................
perhaps so, But once you fix the brake and anything else you need for it. That saw will never bring much more than 100.00........If I am going to let a saw nickle and dime me I want it to be "up to standards once I get it dialed in! Lot of hours working on a saw leaves little time for cutting. jmho Lets Cut Wood....lol
Oh and the Saw's You have done Thats worth It!
hehehe
My insurance co requires all PPE and safety devices be maintained. I'm required to list all job sites before work starts so that unscheduled inspections may occur (to make sure PPE and safe cutting practices are being used) I'll bet you didn't know they even evaluate your stumps on a job site to make sure you are using their training.
I never said I didn't use every safety device available.
I have encouraged taking safety or GOL courses here.
You on the other hand have poo poo'd people for not using all safety devices and referred to them as Forest Gump (I'm guessing you meant mentally deficient ).
From your posts about GOL training ,,,at best I'm guessing you took level 1 and/or had a friend who did and briefed you on the basics. You certainly didn't take all 4 levels.
As far as the saw with no chain brake. It's not my place to condemn someone who wants a saw without.
Make sure YOU sign a DNR or insurance waiver just in case you have a heart attack or life threatening health problems due to smoking, drinking, or eating too much red meat. OHHHHHHH,,,, I forgot you don't have any unsafe habits because you are the Oral Roberts of safety. Sorry,,, NOT!
LEE[/quote]
Mr. Lee:
At last, we have ignition--the man can write english --coherently. Good stuff Lee.
Yes, Mr. Lee, the first chainsaw course I took years ago was the GOL through Level 3 for loggers, arborists, landowners; there was no need to go on for more commercial harvesting for #4. Then later a couple of loggers and a Forester recommended CLP since we were selling pulp. Both programs were excellent learning.
In Maine and N.H. there is no "stump evaluation"; rare site inspections by the Workmen's Comp people; kind of strange for pros. Sorry you need that where you work.
Re: chain brake.
Most posters here are saw neophytes; it's not difficult to come to that conclusion especially with all the hubris and bravado about bigger, longer, high HP, and the need for in shop sharpening machines as a substitute for knowing how to hand sharpen your saw. As an experienced pro, you have a responsibility to recommend.
No need to condemn, just say: "it does the job, use it".
Glad you finally have come back to the real world. Nice to hear from you.
How about some veritas (any crimson here ?)from posters about real world experience: saws, harvesting, wood heating..........life ? :lol:
Stay safe.
My insurance co requires all PPE and safety devices be maintained. I'm required to list all job sites before work starts so that unscheduled inspections may occur (to make sure PPE and safe cutting practices are being used) I'll bet you didn't know they even evaluate your stumps on a job site to make sure you are using their training.
I never said I didn't use every safety device available.
I have encouraged taking safety or GOL courses here.
You on the other hand have poo poo'd people for not using all safety devices and referred to them as Forest Gump (I'm guessing you meant mentally deficient ).
From your posts about GOL training ,,,at best I'm guessing you took level 1 and/or had a friend who did and briefed you on the basics. You certainly didn't take all 4 levels.
As far as the saw with no chain brake. It's not my place to condemn someone who wants a saw without.
Make sure YOU sign a DNR or insurance waiver just in case you have a heart attack or life threatening health problems due to smoking, drinking, or eating too much red meat. OHHHHHHH,,,, I forgot you don't have any unsafe habits because you are the Oral Roberts of safety. Sorry,,, NOT!
LEE[/quote]
Mr. Lee:
At last, we have ignition--the man can write english --coherently. Good stuff Lee.
Yes, Mr. Lee, the first chainsaw course I took years ago was the GOL through Level 3 for loggers, arborists, landowners; there was no need to go on for more commercial harvesting for #4. Then later a couple of loggers and a Forester recommended CLP since we were selling pulp. Both programs were excellent learning.
In Maine and N.H. there is no "stump evaluation"; rare site inspections by the Workmen's Comp people; kind of strange for pros. Sorry you need that where you work.
Re: chain brake.
Most posters here are saw neophytes; it's not difficult to come to that conclusion especially with all the hubris and bravado about bigger, longer, high HP, and the need for in shop sharpening machines as a substitute for knowing how to hand sharpen your saw. As an experienced pro, you have a responsibility to recommend.
No need to condemn, just say: "it does the job, use it".
Glad you finally have come back to the real world. Nice to hear from you.
How about some veritas (any crimson here ?)from posters about real world experience: saws, harvesting, wood heating..........life ? :lol:
Stay safe.
you won't get any of that from me. I'm really a fat chick who eats Twinkies all day and plays online poker and Dungeons & Dragons with my goth friends in Britain. I actually have never seen a chainsaw in person, and I think trees have feelings too.fjord said:
smokinjay said:southbound said:028 Is a great firewood saw
As for the 028 and the 038 and the good ole 41's and so on not being pro saws well that's easy, when they built these saws they were all pro saws
I would jump on a 028 for $50..In fact let me know if you don't buy it
J that 880 has changed you man
perhaps so, But once you fix the brake and anything else you need for it. That saw will never bring much more than 100.00........If I am going to let a saw nickle and dime me I want it to be "up to standards once I get it dialed in! Lot of hours working on a saw leaves little time for cutting. jmho Lets Cut Wood....lol
Oh and the Saw's You have done Thats worth It!
"If I am going to let a saw nickle and dime me" All saws need maintenance this thing is a tank they last for ever if kept up...
"Lets Cut Wood....lol" I'm ready I'm ready...... I do wish you lived closer...
I got the original head from the 046 and I think I can save it, if I do I need some help porting it.....
Danno77 said:
Veritas redux.
Another psychologist with a sign on her door: " Help, stop me before I kill again. " (Actual sign on a door down the hall from me @ an unnamed university. Only she thought it was cute.)
It is time to retire that tired 028 WITH a brake. :lol:
southbound said:smokinjay said:southbound said:028 Is a great firewood saw
As for the 028 and the 038 and the good ole 41's and so on not being pro saws well that's easy, when they built these saws they were all pro saws
I would jump on a 028 for $50..In fact let me know if you don't buy it
J that 880 has changed you man
perhaps so, But once you fix the brake and anything else you need for it. That saw will never bring much more than 100.00........If I am going to let a saw nickle and dime me I want it to be "up to standards once I get it dialed in! Lot of hours working on a saw leaves little time for cutting. jmho Lets Cut Wood....lol
Oh and the Saw's You have done Thats worth It!
"If I am going to let a saw nickle and dime me" All saws need maintenance this thing is a tank they last for ever if kept up...
"Lets Cut Wood....lol" I'm ready I'm ready...... I do wish you lived closer...
I got the original head from the 046 and I think I can save it, if I do I need some help porting it.....
046 and up thats a dollar. 028 that a dime holding up a dollar! lol Really the op do what you want but taking on an unknown old saw it should be a legend! (Unless you know what your doing and helps if you have another parts saw)
fjord said:
Mr. Lee:
At last, we have ignition--the man can write english --coherently. Good stuff Lee.
Yes, Mr. Lee, the first chainsaw course I took years ago was the GOL through Level 3 for loggers, arborists, landowners; there was no need to go on for more commercial harvesting for #4. Then later a couple of loggers and a Forester recommended CLP since we were selling pulp. Both programs were excellent learning.
In Maine and N.H. there is no "stump evaluation"; rare site inspections by the Workmen's Comp people; kind of strange for pros. Sorry you need that where you work.
Re: chain brake.
Most posters here are saw neophytes; it's not difficult to come to that conclusion especially with all the hubris and bravado about bigger, longer, high HP, and the need for in shop sharpening machines as a substitute for knowing how to hand sharpen your saw. As an experienced pro, you have a responsibility to recommend.
No need to condemn, just say: "it does the job, use it".
Glad you finally have come back to the real world. Nice to hear from you.
How about some veritas (any crimson here ?)from posters about real world experience: saws, harvesting, wood heating..........life ? :lol:
Stay safe.[/quote]
Advice is rareLEE heeded unless presented in an educational/classroom type atmosphere . It's human nature.
It's not my place nor my responsibility to save the saw using world because I'm a pro with "paperwork", besides many here have used saws for decades without a scratch.
I could go on and on about the uselessness of long bars and power of saws and auto chain sharpeners but I won't because I'll just alienate people here at Hearth.
I'm sure advice has been asked by an OP with full intent of doing it "their way in the end" anyway.
My advice is to read the owners manual that comes with a new saw or buy a book on safe cutting practices or a GOL course.
Dune ,if the saw runs great and looks cherry, buy it. $50 ain't a bad deal. A good bar and chain is worth that. If you don't like it after awhile Ebay it for a $100. It will sell!
Eye thinx eye'll now goto the water whole down the road and preech to evree1 LEEving 'bout the dangers uf drinxing and driveling.
mayB NOT!
GudDay.
LEE
A-cord-ingLEE said:
Advice is rareLEE heeded unless presented in an educational/classroom type atmosphere . It's human nature.
It's not my place nor my responsibility to save the saw using world because I'm a pro with "paperwork", besides many here have used saws for decades without a scratch.
I could go on and on about the uselessness of long bars and power of saws and auto chain sharpeners but I won't because I'll just alienate people here at Hearth.
I'm sure advice has been asked by an OP with full intent of doing it "their way in the end" anyway.
My advice is to read the owners manual that comes with a new saw or buy a book on safe cutting practices or a GOL course.
Dune ,if the saw runs great and looks cherry, buy it. $50 ain't a bad deal. A good bar and chain is worth that. If you don't like it after awhile Ebay it for a $100. It will sell!
Eye thinx eye'll now goto the water whole down the road and preech to evree1 LEEving 'bout the dangers uf drinxing and driveling.
mayB NOT!
GudDay.
LEE[/quote]
Oh Heck Lee I need some preaching on the 2nd subject! Flip you on who's buying and we can talk about felling so we can take it out on tax's....Bottoms-UP!
Alright, another dumb question about this saw, maybe I can get a straight answer within a page or two. How about I use this saw to build an alaskan chainsaw mill? Shouldn't matter about the brake then right?
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