Chainsaw Purchase Advice Needed
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jatoxico
Minister of Fire
My guess...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/anyone-try-one-of-these.123521/#post-1674804
Correct me if I'm wrong Smokeater.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
![[Hearth.com] Chainsaw Purchase Advice Needed](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/129/129684-d3d7942d4b9b444ab9532a1323738edd.jpg?hash=4wBvMcRFqk "[Hearth.com] Chainsaw Purchase Advice Needed")
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Back on topic... I owned a 40cc (Homelite EZ Auto) saw as my only saw for several years. Then a 50cc (Echo 510 EVL) saw. Then an 85cc (Stihl 064 AV), a 35cc (Husq T435), and finally a 62.5cc (Stihl 036 Pro), these last three still being my regular users.
If looking at older (1970's - 1980's) saws, 40cc or 50cc is plenty. These older saws seemed to all run slower chain speeds, with plenty of torque to just keep going, no matter what you buried the bar into. If looking at more modern (1990's onward) saws, you'll see generally higher RPM's and chain speeds, and I find they tend to bog more easily, requiring more cc's per inch of bar. Of course, the older saws are crazy heavy, so I'm going to assume you're only looking at saws less than 20 years old when I say that I'd not go less than 50 cc's for a single-saw plan. In fact, I think 60 cc is the closest to a one-size-fits-all size, with enough power to get thru just about anything without too much frustration, while not being killer heavy for all-day use. This is why so many recommend that Stihl 036 / 360.
If looking at older (1970's - 1980's) saws, 40cc or 50cc is plenty. These older saws seemed to all run slower chain speeds, with plenty of torque to just keep going, no matter what you buried the bar into. If looking at more modern (1990's onward) saws, you'll see generally higher RPM's and chain speeds, and I find they tend to bog more easily, requiring more cc's per inch of bar. Of course, the older saws are crazy heavy, so I'm going to assume you're only looking at saws less than 20 years old when I say that I'd not go less than 50 cc's for a single-saw plan. In fact, I think 60 cc is the closest to a one-size-fits-all size, with enough power to get thru just about anything without too much frustration, while not being killer heavy for all-day use. This is why so many recommend that Stihl 036 / 360.
Ok so when you say you done 5 cords you really didn't finish the job. I can produce 1-2 cord an hour of rounds. Then the brush splitting stacking and moving takes control. This is the way I do it.
![[Hearth.com] Chainsaw Purchase Advice Needed](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/129/129699-293c296063171b3d20405b210d4f06e4.jpg?hash=laZ7oKsiiB "[Hearth.com] Chainsaw Purchase Advice Needed")
Yeah I've been cutting after work, and on these short winter days that's not a lot of time. Now that I got it all cut I'll start the long process of splitting by hand
I should be done with my wood in about 40 man hrs. 1/3 was me the rest is paid help 5+ cords of white oak.. That's using a bucket to load into a dump trailer for free. (That was awesome)
. Tonight I might just light that brush on fire.
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smokedragon
Minister of Fire
+1000 to that Craig.
I had a 18" craftsman that was fine for a few years. It worked better when I replaced it with a 14" bar (because it was way undersized for a 18). But once I got my hands on a real saw, I sold the craftsman, wouldn't even keep it for limbs.
Now I will say I don't think you need to venture up into some of the monster saws that they have mentioned for mostly softwoods with a max of 24". But you will not be unhappy with any of the quality saws.
I have a Stihl MS290, best $$$$ I ever spent on a tool. If you get a chance, find someone with cutting equipment and offer to help them. That is what led me to my saw, and I am very happy.
Chris
I purchased a 290 new. It did just fine, yet it performed even better when I replaced the semi-chisel safety chain with full chisel chain. Still, it did poorly when buried in hardwoods and had difficulty making stumps. In addition, its weight and decades old antivibration technology got to me during longer cutting sessions. I thought there must be a better way.
I eventually got my hands on a 361. Lighter, more power, better fuel efficiency (fuel used per cord), better antivibration, and more grunt for pulling through hardwoods and stumps made life much easier. Some of the "best $$$$ I ever spent on a tool."
The prices when the 361 had been discontinued were $389 (290/20") and $609 (361/20"). That's a $220 difference. Keep the saw for at least 10 years (not unreasonable with these models) and the price difference per year is $22. That easily can made back with its fuel efficiency, reduced wear and tear on my body, and even increased safety with a faster cutting saw.
I understand that we all have budgets and the initial outlay of cash can be difficult; however, I wanted to provide perspective on what a chainsaw purchase can mean over the long run.
I eventually got my hands on a 361. Lighter, more power, better fuel efficiency (fuel used per cord), better antivibration, and more grunt for pulling through hardwoods and stumps made life much easier. Some of the "best $$$$ I ever spent on a tool."
The prices when the 361 had been discontinued were $389 (290/20") and $609 (361/20"). That's a $220 difference. Keep the saw for at least 10 years (not unreasonable with these models) and the price difference per year is $22. That easily can made back with its fuel efficiency, reduced wear and tear on my body, and even increased safety with a faster cutting saw.
I understand that we all have budgets and the initial outlay of cash can be difficult; however, I wanted to provide perspective on what a chainsaw purchase can mean over the long run.
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
This is the first thing I tell someone to do when they purchase a new saw.
Regardless of the power, the right chain (in both geometry and sharpness) really makes all the difference.
Perhaps when I am in the market for a saw again, I will take a look at the higher model Stihl saws. I was initially hesitant to lay out that kind of money for a Stihl when my craftsman was less than 1/2 of that. Now that I have used the MS290 for 4 years, I feel I can only go up
You use a chainsaw to split, move and stack the wood as well? Pretty hardcore!
Hardcore knowing better 5 cords in a month with a saw? Silly Give me 5 hours. Then the work begins. You don't know hardcore.
Thanks for the feedback. I couldn't agree more. The more I learn about different options, the more I see the importance of getting a quality product. As for Stihl, I am strong considering the 291.
Yes, the 361 seems like a fabulous saw. I am actually looking at the ms361 that is refurbished by a saw shop. They want $440 for it. I have my doubts about refurbs but it is very tempting.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I'd offer $400, and insist on a 3 month warranty. I'd even take it at $440, with the warranty. If they're not confident enough in their "refurb" to guarantee three months, I'd walk.
Hi Joful, thanks again for steering me to the Arboristsite. Lots of helpful folks there. For the 361, they are saying $400 plus shipping, which I guess will come to $440. You think it is worth $400 including shipping. Also, should this include the bar, chain and any tools?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I thought this was from a local shop? Price would be saw with bar and chain. Extra chains are bonus, but almost never the type I run (RS / RSC), so usually useless to me. The few saw shops I've dealt with throw in a scrench and scabbard on a new saw, but nothing on a used saw.
cityboy172
Feeling the Heat
Little late to the party here, But I'll echo what alot of guys here have said. Buy as much saw as you can afford if your on a budget. I started working with a ms250 and it was pretty sweet. Found a used ms290 for $250 and that was the best thing around. Then I got a sweet deal on a ms460 for a hell of a deal (free, needed re bushed and an oiler), and that is a saw I actually look forward to running. It puts a smile on my face to fire it up almost every time.
I would not hesitate to buy a ms361 in good condition. That is one hell of an all round saw. You will be so much happier with a saw thats more capeable. I rarely even use my ms250 or ms290. They are down to occasional limbing and back up duty only.
I would not hesitate to buy a ms361 in good condition. That is one hell of an all round saw. You will be so much happier with a saw thats more capeable. I rarely even use my ms250 or ms290. They are down to occasional limbing and back up duty only.
You have gotten some sweet deals on those Stilh's, good for you. The 460 must be a joy!
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Now you need a 35cc top handle saw. Trust me!
I feel about my 064, the way you enjoy your 460, but that little top handle saw definitely sees more use! Makes limbing and yard cleanup a joy.
cityboy172
Feeling the Heat
The $250 for the used ms290 is fairly standard around here. The ms460 was a once on a lifetime deal though.
It's on the short list for sure. Think I'm going to rearrange my whole saw line up real soon.
Ahhh...the lever axe guy. You simply don't know the history behind that. Feel free to PM me.
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
I agree with that. Any refurb that they can't give a 3 month warranty on is garbage.
If I could find that deal, I would have bought it. People around here want too much for the higher end Stihls, even if they are 30 years old.
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