Chainsaw Lumbermaking by Will Malloff
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Zap,
You'll be amazed how much info is packed into that 'bible of micro-milling'.I've had my copy almost 19 yrs now & still go back to it all the time.I just wish that Taunton Press (the original publisher & the company behind Fine Woodworking magazine) or someone else would reprint it,so many more could have the chance at an affordable copy thats available everywhere.Over the years I've had a few offers for my 1st Edition 1982 copy from $80 to over $250.Even with the few expected grease smudged & underlined pages.I turned down every one.
You'll be amazed how much info is packed into that 'bible of micro-milling'.I've had my copy almost 19 yrs now & still go back to it all the time.I just wish that Taunton Press (the original publisher & the company behind Fine Woodworking magazine) or someone else would reprint it,so many more could have the chance at an affordable copy thats available everywhere.Over the years I've had a few offers for my 1st Edition 1982 copy from $80 to over $250.Even with the few expected grease smudged & underlined pages.I turned down every one.
Thistle said:
Just checked and it is from 1982, looks like with the weather and some stacking I'll be doing I'll start reading it Sunday night.
Zap
Thistle said:
Thistle, I see in the book he cut down the bar cover so the shavings won't collect inside have you or smokin tried this.
Zap
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smokinjay said:
Smokin I just spoke with the Wood Chop Shop and they think the ez rails came in, one step closer for that big pine to become boards of some type.
Zap
zapny said:
I would make nice size cants until you have the project in mind. Then its just a re-saw to size. 4, 6, 8, maybe even 10 and 12 inchs thick You would be ready for just about anything. 8-10 foot long.
smokinjay said:
Great idea! I'd be worried that without the protective bark on them the cants might check and crack over time, though. Maybe seal them somehow?
Battenkiller said:
Wax or paint the ends. You want to lose any extra moisture any ways. Much less warping with the big cants. Then when you know what you need just start ripping. (or mini milling)
Here's a shot of the rail stands I made for my carving buddy. I used some discarded telescoping galvy tubing. It already had the holes punched in every 3", all I had to do was weld a couple sections of the larger size onto the cross rails and weld on some angle iron (old bed frame) for the feet. And of course, keep it all square when I welded it together. I just love making cool stuff out of scrap.
Next time I'm out there, I will cut the legs about 4" up from the base and insert 1 1/8" lally post screws for fine adjusters. They fit just right in there. Should be able to get both rails perfectly in the same plane that way. Two pieces of string across the diagonals will get them co-planar in a few minutes, even on very uneven terrain. Best part is they come apart in seconds and can be transported taking up very little space.
Those sweet rails he had made as a favor from a local metal shop he helped save from destruction (he used to be fire chief). They are heavy-walled square aluminum tubing, and have tabs TIG welded onto them so he could drive lag bolts into real big logs to make the first cut. Now he can just set the long rails on top of the cross rails and make the first cut that way, even on very crooked logs. With the four adjusters in place, he could even mill a long taper on subsequent cuts if he ever wanted to.
![[Hearth.com] Chainsaw Lumbermaking by Will Malloff](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv306%2Fdrfera%2FMillingStands.jpg&hash=8d498496c18183c406147b0cd6c5d43d "[Hearth.com] Chainsaw Lumbermaking by Will Malloff")
Next time I'm out there, I will cut the legs about 4" up from the base and insert 1 1/8" lally post screws for fine adjusters. They fit just right in there. Should be able to get both rails perfectly in the same plane that way. Two pieces of string across the diagonals will get them co-planar in a few minutes, even on very uneven terrain. Best part is they come apart in seconds and can be transported taking up very little space.
Those sweet rails he had made as a favor from a local metal shop he helped save from destruction (he used to be fire chief). They are heavy-walled square aluminum tubing, and have tabs TIG welded onto them so he could drive lag bolts into real big logs to make the first cut. Now he can just set the long rails on top of the cross rails and make the first cut that way, even on very crooked logs. With the four adjusters in place, he could even mill a long taper on subsequent cuts if he ever wanted to.
Battenkiller said:Here's a shot of the rail stands I made for my carving buddy. I used some discarded telescoping galvy tubing. It already had the holes punched in every 3", all I had to do was weld a couple sections of the larger size onto the cross rails and weld on some angle iron (old bed frame) for the feet. And of course, keep it all square when I welded it together. I just love making cool stuff out of scrap.
Next time I'm out there, I will cut the legs about 4" up from the base and insert 1 1/8" lally post screws for fine adjusters. They fit just right in there. Should be able to get both rails perfectly in the same plane that way. Two pieces of string across the diagonals will get them co-planar in a few minutes, even on very uneven terrain. Best part is they come apart in seconds and can be transported taking up very little space.
Those sweet rails he had made as a favor from a local metal shop he helped save from destruction (he used to be fire chief). They are heavy-walled square aluminum tubing, and have tabs TIG welded onto them so he could drive lag bolts into real big logs to make the first cut. Now he can just set the long rails on top of the cross rails and make the first cut that way, even on very crooked logs. With the four adjusters in place, he could even mill a long taper on subsequent cuts if he ever wanted to.
Thats slick!
smokinjay said:
I wasn't talking about the ends, I meant checking on the milled faces. Whenever I carve a log, two days later it is covered in long cracks because I removed the bark when I carved it. Gotta finish and seal it right away, otherwise it can crack real bad. Even then, the thick carvings usually crack at some point in the future. Ever seen a big beam in a barn that didn't have cracks in it? Thicker the wood, easier for it to crack when it's drying. If I re-saw guitar wood 1/4" thick for tops it never, ever cracks, even if cut green. I once lost a couple huge cants of sitka spruce by waiting a week to re-saw them after my band saw broke. Not good for much except bracing. Heartbreaking.
Battenkiller said:
Bees Wax Applied to Top and Bottom. Cut Ends done with Paraffin Wax. If your trying to stop all checking. This is how I do black walnut. Outdoors stuff I will just do the ends and let it check.
smokinjay said:
He's happy. ;-)
Gotta take good care of him, he's gone way out of his way to help me along with my carving. Not his fault I'm a slow learner. :roll:
These things can come back to bite you in the ass, though. Last week he called up and asked if I could bring my welder out to fit in a "little sheet metal" into the truck he's restoring. I get there and he had removed all the old paint and Bondo, and under all that were three separate holes about a foot across, curves and all. Then he brings out the sheet metal and it's 16 ga. steel. :wow:
I told him it was just about impossible to fit that stuff in place, but eight hours later we had pounded all of it out on the anvil close enough to tack in place with the MIG. Then no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get good penetration on the heavy stuff without blasting holes in the thin stuff. Total nightmare, but it ain't going anywhere soon. Next time he asks, I think I'll tell him the welder bounced out of the truck on the way home.
Battenkiller said:smokinjay said:
He's happy. ;-)
Gotta take good care of him, he's gone way out of his way to help me along with my carving. Not his fault I'm a slow learner. :roll:
These things can come back to bite you in the ass, though. Last week he called up and asked if I could bring my welder out to fit in a "little sheet metal" into the truck he's restoring. I get there and he had removed all the old paint and Bondo, and under all that were three separate holes about a foot across, curves and all. Then he brings out the sheet metal and it's 16 ga. steel. :wow:
I told him it was just about impossible to fit that stuff in place, but eight hours later we had pounded all of it out on the anvil close enough to tack in place with the MIG. Then no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get good penetration on the heavy stuff without blasting holes in the thin stuff. Total nightmare, but it ain't going anywhere soon. Next time he asks, I think I'll tell him the welder bounced out of the truck on the way home.
Amazing the better you get at somthing the harder the jobs get. :cheese:
Out of pm's Zap.... :coolsmirk: 3/8 0.50. cutters are at 10 degrees, rakers you will want to get more aggressive each time you file. Not sure on the drive links on a 36inch bar. My 41 is 135.
smokinjay said:
3/8 0.050 I think you mean... or that is one monster chassis on that chain. Probably need two men just to pick up the bar. ;-P
smokinjay said:
No clue, but I wish I had a saw that would pull that much chain. :cheese:
Who made the bar? I imagine there is some variability, a link or two one way or the other depending on the particular bar. He's probably getting the milling chain from Bailey's, don't they know?
Battenkiller said:
Its a stihl es 36 inch bar. Think Zap putty together a milling shipping list.
smokinjay said:
The bar is the Rollomatic ES from Stihl, 3/8.0.050 and 114 Links. That is off the side of the bar.
Zap
zapny said:
Thats what you would order then. Might look at the woodland pros. Better review and much cheaper as well.
http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=11828
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