My dad gave me a McColluch Eager Beaver chainsaw that had stopped working on him. He was sure that it stopped working due to old fuel getting gummed up and blocking the fuel line. Well I have taken it apart and got everything cleaned out and bought a new carb kit and I got it running. It starts and idles fine. My problem is when I go to rev the engine it boggs down. I have to keep the choke just slightly open to get it to rev up but when I start to cut some wood it doesn't have much power and will barely keep the chain moving if too much pressure is applied. Is it my fuel mixture? If so does it need more gas or oil? If it is the carb settings what should I look at adjusting, the idle or the high and low settings. Thanks
Chainsaw help
- Thread starter sbowers22
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
well, if it's bogging when you give it the gas and try to open it up, then mess with the high setting. I assume it can idle fine with the choke off?sbowers22 said:
Danno77 said:
Did you change the fuel filter?
If yes crack your gas tank slightly open. Did that solve it?
Not 100% but I think that saw takes 40:1 ratio not 50:1
Monkey Wrench said:
I will try messing with the high setting after I try running it with the fuel cap open. Funny I had the same problem with my riding mower. Couldn't keep it running, found out that all i had to do is loosen the gas cap. I cleaned the fuel filter so that should not be the problem. The fuel mixture is confusing. The manual say 40:1 with McColloch oil and 20:1 with all other brands of oil. I did 20:1 so maybe that is my problem.
sbowers22 said:
20:1 is too much oil.
That manual is so out dated. Todays oil is night and day better.
Monkey Wrench said:
Ok, I found a manual online for a newer model and it said 40:1. When I got home I double checked and the manual that came with the saw said 40:1 for McCulloch oil and 20:1 for all other brands. So I tried adding some pure gas to the mixture in the fuel tank and now it won't run at all. I guess my next step is to go back with the 20:1 mixture and play with the high setting.
Pull Your Plug and replace
Than mix your fuel 40:1
Do it right, never add straight gas to a 2 cyl when you are just guessing you got the mix correct. Close only counts in horse shoes and hand grenades!
Than mix your fuel 40:1
Do it right, never add straight gas to a 2 cyl when you are just guessing you got the mix correct. Close only counts in horse shoes and hand grenades!
Monkey Wrench said:
I thought about the plug but the saw only has about 10 or so hours on it so i though it would still be good. I will replace the plug and give it another try. As far as the hydro lock goes it pulled just fine at 20:1.
OK I need more help. After following most of the suggestons I mixed a new batch of fuel at 40:1, changed the spark plug, adjusted the high adjustment screw, and found out the engine won't rev with the chain locked, the saw was running perfect except that the chain was dull. Yesterday I was cutting some wood and it was running fine and I turned it off for a minute then it would not restart. It sounded like it would almost start but wouldn't. Today when I tried to start it it would hydro lock sometimes. I took it apart and made sure the fuel was flowing freely and put it back together. I got it running but when I rev it all the way it kind of sounds like it is missing or maybe not getting enough fuel. Can you give me any insight? I figure either fuel mixture or fuel filter?
with the chain locked
you don't mean with the brake on do you?
oil ratio would not affect running, but 20:1 could have thoroughly fouled the plug, I 'd change that for sure, and run 40 or 50:1 modern oil. Remeber that manual was written about 20 year old oil technology, and the marketing department wanted to sell their oil, hence the 20:1 if using any other brand of oil.
change the fuel filter, carefully inspect the fuel line and pulse line (if it has an external one) so it is pumping enough fuel. Adjust your mixtures. Madsens1.com has some sound clips of proper running. You want in on the rich end, not lean end.
you don't mean with the brake on do you?
oil ratio would not affect running, but 20:1 could have thoroughly fouled the plug, I 'd change that for sure, and run 40 or 50:1 modern oil. Remeber that manual was written about 20 year old oil technology, and the marketing department wanted to sell their oil, hence the 20:1 if using any other brand of oil.
change the fuel filter, carefully inspect the fuel line and pulse line (if it has an external one) so it is pumping enough fuel. Adjust your mixtures. Madsens1.com has some sound clips of proper running. You want in on the rich end, not lean end.
Kevin, I once owned a saw just like yours. It is vapor locking. Mine would do the exact same thing. Once it gets hot and you shut it off it will literally boil the gas, causing the "vapor lock" I gave mine a send off with a well placed 357 magnum.
Thanks for all the help. Well I think I got it running again. I realized oil was actually coming out of the exhaust so I tried some carb cleaner and it eventually started running better. I read some where that that the carbs build up gunk from the fuel and not so great air filters. Thanks again.
Pull the spark plug, drive a new Stihl under it, then all you'll need to do is change the spark plug :cheese:
But, um . . . mix the mix properly this time, or yer gonna pizz away a bunch of money
hh:
But, um . . . mix the mix properly this time, or yer gonna pizz away a bunch of money
hh:- Status
Similar threads
