Chainsaw finishes cuts to the right

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k3c4forlife

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 30, 2009
232
Was bucking some logs this weekend with my Echo CS-3450. I dont know what I did but no matter how I start my cut, at the bottom of the log I end up finishing at a 30* angle to the right. Is this something with the bar or the chain that can be easily fixed? I bought the saw used at a garage sale. It cut perfectly for a 4 hour session and the second time using it, it starts the cut fine and finishes on a pretty sharp angle.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
My manual says that problems with the bar can cause that. Try removing the chain to see if the bar is perfectly flat and whether the groove is flared/worn.
 
k3c4forlife said:
Was bucking some logs this weekend with my Echo CS-3450. I dont know what I did but no matter how I start my cut, at the bottom of the log I end up finishing at a 30* angle to the right. Is this something with the bar or the chain that can be easily fixed? I bought the saw used at a garage sale. It cut perfectly for a 4 hour session and the second time using it, it starts the cut fine and finishes on a pretty sharp angle.

Thanks,
Kevin

Either your bar needs dressing or you've sharpened your chain unevenly, or, both.
 
more time than not its the chain
 
Honestly, I am not too familiar with a chainsaw. I just bought my first house. I bought wood for this year (pretty much still green) and want to make sure it doesnt happen again. I was finishing up next year's wood and started to notice the angle to the right.

Like I said, I have the Echo CS3450. I'll just have to learn how to flip the bar and if that doesnt work. Gonna run out and grab a new chain to start everything off the right way. I bought the chainsaw used for $45 at a garage sale. It was used maybe 15 times before I bought it and the guy didnt clean it before it put it away for last winter. I cleaned the carb and the thing runs pretty good. I dont know how well/evenly he sharpened the chain/dressed the bar.

I am a new to cutting. What would you all suggest?
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Also are you familiar with flipping your bar? This not a joke. It helps the bar wear evenly.

This actually does no such thing. If you flipped your bar daily you'd simply have matching uneven wear top and bottom. Still a good idea, however.
 
k3c4forlife said:
Honestly, I am not too familiar with a chainsaw. I just bought my first house. I bought wood for this year (pretty much still green) and want to make sure it doesnt happen again. I was finishing up next year's wood and started to notice the angle to the right.

Like I said, I have the Echo CS3450. I'll just have to learn how to flip the bar and if that doesnt work. Gonna run out and grab a new chain to start everything off the right way. I bought the chainsaw used for $45 at a garage sale. It was used maybe 15 times before I bought it and the guy didnt clean it before it put it away for last winter. I cleaned the carb and the thing runs pretty good. I dont know how well/evenly he sharpened the chain/dressed the bar.

I am a new to cutting. What would you all suggest?

I suggest the following:

1) Remember that you are cutting firewood, not dimensional lumber. Crooked cut wood will burn just as good as strait/flush cut wood.

2) With that in mind, relax and practice. Get a couple files and just practice. It'll be ugly your first time. And your second time. And for a while. But with persistence you will get it.

3) Remember, you're cutting firewood not replacing heart valves. No one will die if your cuts are not perfect.
 
This will help.


(broken link removed to http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/support/video-library/)
 
Bigg_Redd said:
k3c4forlife said:
Honestly, I am not too familiar with a chainsaw. I just bought my first house. I bought wood for this year (pretty much still green) and want to make sure it doesnt happen again. I was finishing up next year's wood and started to notice the angle to the right.

Like I said, I have the Echo CS3450. I'll just have to learn how to flip the bar and if that doesnt work. Gonna run out and grab a new chain to start everything off the right way. I bought the chainsaw used for $45 at a garage sale. It was used maybe 15 times before I bought it and the guy didnt clean it before it put it away for last winter. I cleaned the carb and the thing runs pretty good. I dont know how well/evenly he sharpened the chain/dressed the bar.

I am a new to cutting. What would you all suggest?

I suggest the following:

1) Remember that you are cutting firewood, not dimensional lumber. Crooked cut wood will burn just as good as strait/flush cut wood.

2) With that in mind, relax and practice. Get a couple files and just practice. It'll be ugly your first time. And your second time. And for a while. But with persistence you will get it.

3) Remember, you're cutting firewood not replacing heart valves. No one will die if your cuts are not perfect.

I am definitely not looking to be perfect. The problem is that the chain is seizing on pieces 12" in dia or bigger. The other problem is that if I need to restart on a piece, I need ti line it back up exactly. If I dont cut at the same angle the bucked piece comes to a point before I am done and it is very difficult to finish off.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Bigg_Redd said:
Monkey Wrench said:
Also are you familiar with flipping your bar? This not a joke. It helps the bar wear evenly.

This actually does no such thing. If you flipped your bar daily you'd simply have matching uneven wear top and bottom. Still a good idea, however.

Read here. Do what you want to. I FLIP my Bar.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=99870&highlight=flipping+bar

I do too. It's good practice but it doesn't "even" anything out.
 
So what should I be doing to fix this? Flip the bar and analyze the teeth?
 
k3c4forlife said:
So what should I be doing to fix this? Flip the bar and analyze the teeth?



if your not good at sharpening yet take it to a dealer and have it sharpen that should take care of it. flip your bar evertime you sharpen the chain this will make for even wear. (dont really think thats the problem because it was cutting stright at one point)
 
smokinjay said:
k3c4forlife said:
So what should I be doing to fix this? Flip the bar and analyze the teeth?



if your not good at sharpening yet take it to a dealer and have it sharpen that should take care of it. flip your bar evertime you sharpen the chain this will make for even wear. (dont really think thats the problem because it was cutting stright at one point)





http://www.baileysonline.com/

+1 Also check out these people for parts/chains/etc.
 
k3c4forlife said:
So what should I be doing to fix this? Flip the bar and analyze the teeth?

You can flip the bar if you want but my bet is that ain't the problem.

I'd recommend buying a new chain, or having your current chain professionally sharpened and seeing how that bad boy cuts then.

I used to have that problem too, when I was new to chainsaws, my saw cutting a nice curve as it went through the round, problem was never the bar, always the chain.

You see, rule number one for me is, chainsaw is for cutting wood.

Keep the chain out of the dirt, avoid even one "oops", don't try cutting rock, stones, wire, steel, rebar, and such. ;-P I'm not sayin' you've done these things, but what I AM saying is I used to, and that's one thing that causes crooked cutting.

Another thing that causes crooked cutting is inexperience when sharpening the chain, meaning, sharpening one row of teeth different than the opposing row...that GUARANTEES a nice curve to the cut!
 
As noted, likely the chain sharpened more on one side or the other, or bar wear. Bar can be uneven height of side rails (use a straight edge 90 degrees to the bar to check. websites below will show you how. It is easy to fix with a simple flat file. The groove can be worn and chain rocking left and right. Is the chain the right thickness of gauge (.043, .050, .058, or .063 thick) for the bar groove size? You say it is quite new, but did it oil properly for previous owner? is it using roughly a tank of oil per tank of gas?

Lots of good web info. Check the stihl site for the mainteance video. Also Carlton chain, oregon chain and bars, Madsens, maybe husky has one also.

Flipping the bar doesn't even out the wear of the side rails left to right, but does even wear top to bottom. Especially for those who run dull chains and push on the saw into the wood and put blue flat spots on the bottom of the bar. Not blaming you, just that it is good practice to do every chain or so.

It is already bad, so any practiing filing you do won't make the situation any worse right? so the 'lemonade' deal is this is an opportunity to learn to file chain, inspect bar, file bar, etc.

kcj
 
Take the chain off the bar, feel on the side of the bar with your finger nail , where the chain rides in the rails, If that has any ridge sticking out, that will be wider than the cutter on the chain and won't let that side cut. Take a flat file and smooth off any burrs sticking out , all around the face of the bar, on both sides, by the side of the rails. That should help. Could also be dull cutters on one side too , but I have seen bars with a ridge of metal on the side, lock the bar up in a cut. Hope this helps.
 
+1 to Big Redd's advice . . . could be the bar, most likely the chain.

Take Anseh's advice . . . put a new chain on it and see if that doesn't fix the problem . . . and at the same time you're buying a new chain be sure to pick up a proper sized file and start practicing on the old chain to get it back into shape.
 
If you take the chain someplace to be sharpened that will probably fix it, cheaper than a new one. Once it is cutting straight, you can practice sharpening it evenly.
 
Don't forget to pick up a raker file and gauge. They should be set too , for a chain to cut well. Usually .025-.030. raker heigth.
 
Probably one side of chain is sharper than the other. My experience is that I will sharpen all the teeth on one side then do the other. By the time I get to the other side I am getting tired of sharpening and may not spend as much time on it.
 
Depending if your right or left handed , you tend to take off more on the left or right hand cutters , as you sharpen, with the same amount of strokes , on each cutter. Being right handed , I take off more on the left hand cutters, verses the right, it seems like your pushing away from your body and have less bite into the chain. So I whind up at times giving the right cutters on or two more strokes. The dial calipers tell everything! ;-)
 
k3c4forlife said:
Was bucking some logs this weekend with my Echo CS-3450. I dont know what I did but no matter how I start my cut, at the bottom of the log I end up finishing at a 30* angle to the right. Is this something with the bar or the chain that can be easily fixed? I bought the saw used at a garage sale. It cut perfectly for a 4 hour session and the second time using it, it starts the cut fine and finishes on a pretty sharp angle.

Thanks,
Kevin

Take chain off and file bur off where chain rides on bar with a flat file around edges of bar so bar is flat on both sides. make sure chain is getting oil or bar will bur faster.
 
Several things can cause it. Normally it's the chain. But if the chain is good, it may be your technique.
The saw is not balanced on the plane of the bar, the engine side is heavier so if your are not holding the saw so
it's balanced & perpendicular to the log, the weight will slowly pull cuts that go to the right.
Firm grip on the handle a little left of center & a light grip on the trigger & grip.
Keep the face of the saw against the log.
Practice.
PS If you are wearing bifocals, straight looks crooked & crooked looks straight. :)
 
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