Chainsaw doesn't cut on level

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SuburbanFarmer

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 20, 2009
46
New England / S. NH
Echo CS-400 with Oregon semi-chisel 91VXL chain. Spits out big chips, but doesn't want to cut when perfectly level - tilting it up or down works fine. I've sharpened it, both on the bar and off (with the HF disk / grinder chainsaw sharpener.), flipped the bar, etc...

I have to think it's the rakers? They were a tiny bit long, (Hand filed with Oregon guide at 0.025") Small improvement, but still doesn't want to cut when completely 'flat'...

Top of chain cuts great, as does the tip...

Any other ideas?
 
Sounds like you might have a bit of a burr on the lower rail of the bar. Get after it with a flat file.
 
I was thinking bar problem as well. You would not cut large chips if the taker was keeping the cutter out of the cut.

Maybe warped or bent bar, but more likely a lip from wear.
 
Thank you for the replies, I'll take a closer look at the bar..
 
Good call on the bar having a lip. It took some significant grinding / filing to remove it. I never knew to even watch for that condition on the bar...

I did notice that there were sparks coming from under the bar when cutting, guess that should have been a clue!

Question: How does the lip interfere with the chain and or cutting?
 
Chain is angled when it gets to the lip. Trying to cut with the side of the chain.
 
I have the same saw, I just changed the chain to a brand new one, it cut like butta... I mean like it was cutting butter, :-)' how long have you used this chain? Mine started cutting crooked, so I changed it and its a whole new world..... $18 at Home Depot...gl
 
Pretty sure it was the lip on the bar. The chain cut great, just not when the bar was flat - large chunks of sawdust... Lots of life left in this chain. I'll verify in daylight tomorrow. (I do have spare chains and a spare / new bar in the box for those 'emergencies' when you get the bar pinched deep in the woods...) That's why I was baffled - Chain looked and felt very sharp. Thanks to the experts here, I learned something!
 
It's good to flip the bar whenever you change chains or even just periodically. Keeps the wear spread among both sides of the bar. Just make sure the groove and oil holes are clear when you flip it. If you're seeing sparks on the underside of the bar then you probably are not oiling or not oiling enough. Make sure the oil hole is clear, then make sure the oiler system on the saw works. Does fine saw dust seem to stick to the chain?
 
Make sure your chain is properly tensioned. Loose chain will act the same way (as well as accelerating uneven bar wear).
 
For the guy just buying chain, you realize you can sharpen a chain till the teeth are gone right? If your hand filing has it so outta each it like its dull a shop van get it like new for $5-7 usually. Yea its an old chain. But most of us here can run a same chain for years.
 
That should read,
outta wack ......shop can get...
 
...and even when it's worn down to tiny teeth, it still works for clearing brush and crap that you don't want to wreck a good chain on.... ;-)

For the guy just buying chain, you realize you can sharpen a chain till the teeth are gone right? If your hand filing has it so outta each it like its dull a shop can get it like new for $5-7 usually. Yea its an old chain. But most of us here can run a same chain for years.
 
...and even when it's worn down to tiny teeth, it still works for clearing brush and crap that you don't want to wreck a good chain on.... ;-)
That's a good idea...... My original was sharpened several times, at the end was cutting crooked, either way, I'm happy I got a new one...... Cuts like butta.....for now
 
If its cutting crooked your takers are not the same from side to side, one side is sharper than the other or maybe tooth length?
 
Thanks to MasterMech and clemsonfor their insight, I tried the saw tonight and it cuts like a champ after removing the 'lip' on both sides, top and bottom, of the bar!

Thanks for the help!
 
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