Chainsaw Conundrum

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No question about it I would def grab up the 260. Bottom line is, its a PRO saw. Its going to last you quite some time. Its lighter and built better than the 290. This shouldnt even be a debate.

A saw that size will do you very fine for cutting that amount of firewood. As far as cutting the bigger stuff goes (24" dia +) I honestly try to stay away from anything that big for firewood purposes anyhow. Its harder to manhandle around, harder to split depending on the pieces, etc. You'll do just fine with a 50cc saw for firewood.
 
You would be happy with the 260 but as others have said you may want to get a 16" bar also and become much happier. Use the 20" bar when needed. Of course, the addition of the 16" bar would bring up your final price.
 
I have had an ms290super farm boss. Its essentially a ms310 cause it was a little more hp. I owned it since 1999 and never even changed a plug...it gets used and have gone thru 8-10 chains and on its second bar. That being said I have had 3 or 4 cl farm bosses, a makita dsc6401, a few 025s and an 026 as well as a ms200t and 039. Like others have said it is a toss up. If it were me I would buy the 026 for reduced weight or save for a ms361/362. The reduction in weight is worth it or up in cc's and chain speed is worth it. At the end of the day you will like either saw and it will do a good job. Like someone else has said, the 361/362 will cut quicker but the others are no slouch. Offer him 300 for the 026 or watch CL. I picked up a like new 025 for 100 bucks... my ms361 was new with 2 tanks thru it and not broken in or a scuff on the bar and I paid 250. I prefer stihls, that not knocking the makita, just can't argue with 11 years of maintainence free use! My buddy works for the county and stihl is all they use! Happy saw hunting!
 
I traded my very nice 290 for an equally nice 026, wouldn't trade back. FWIW A C
 
260 one of the best saws I own. I cut everyday when we are not in a recession. :-S
 
Well, my 2 cents... about the same as what looks like a loose consensus; go with the 260.

Why? The "Pro" features are a better user experience than Stihl's homeowner series. The lower weight will be the main benefit, maybe a little better vibration isolation, as well. What you will most likely notice down the road is the higher resale value of the 260, if you decided to trade it. I kind of doubt that you will want to, though.

You may find that the 260 is your "small saw" that does everything you want/need to do now. You may end up wanting to do stuff that requires a bigger saw later. If so, your experience gained with the 260 will prepare you for a bigger saw like a 460 or so. You may just find that the 260 does everything that you need with a sharp chain. The Homelite will make a nice backup saw or loaner if a friend wants to come help out sometime.

Don't skimp on safety stuff; offer the dealer $300 as said above, but spend the savings with him on some nice chaps and maybe a helmet system with hearing protection and a face shield. Gloves would be good as well.

Have fun. Either saw will be nice.
 
I used 026's at work for a few years. They had a lot of use and abuse before my hands got on them and even more during after. They held up remarkable well and I would not hesitate to buy one. My advice is to try and have the dealer throw in a 16" bar and chain with the deal. Buy the 026 either way as it will handle what you want to do. After you get home with it use your homelite for a few weeks and leave the stihl in your garage. Then use your Stihl so you can see the difference. Keep the Homelite for a back up in case of getting pinched. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of chainsaw chaps, a helmet with facemask, good boots, and get some sort of chainsaw instruction before you start cutting.

Happy cutting!
 
Thanks again everyone. Gonna go grab that 260 pro right now. Got them talked into down to $320. Will return the Homelite to HD so will at least have $160-180 in credit there. Not sure what they have for protective gear, etc. I imagine i'm gonna wanna get my bars and chains through the Stihl dealer as HD probably won't have much. Either way, i'm sure i can find a way to blow $175 at HD SOMEHOW.

Will likely save a little while to get sharpening set, extra chains, etc. Don't see a LOT of sawing in the near future but who knows.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
When I shopping for saws I was initially looking at the 290 but went with the 310. Happy I did as the saw has worked great! I am cutting about the same amount as you and would highly recommend the 310.
 
Exmasonite said:
Thanks again everyone. Gonna go grab that 260 pro right now. Got them talked into down to $320. Will return the Homelite to HD so will at least have $160-180 in credit there. Not sure what they have for protective gear, etc. I imagine i'm gonna wanna get my bars and chains through the Stihl dealer as HD probably won't have much. Either way, i'm sure i can find a way to blow $175 at HD SOMEHOW.

Will likely save a little while to get sharpening set, extra chains, etc. Don't see a LOT of sawing in the near future but who knows.

Thanks again for all the help.


Sorry if I missed your follow-up thread, but how do you like the 260? You made the right decision, IMO. Lastly, chaps,chaps,chaps! will easily pay for themselves by avoiding an ER visit. (Don't ask me how I know)
 
I ended up getting that 260 Pro. Had the guy fire it up at the shop, started like a dream. (The owner of the saw is related to the local stihl dealer). Dealer noted that he'd upgraded to a 3/8" chain/sprocket and has the "professional" bar on it.

To be honest, i started it up 1-2x, had some aspirations of bucking a downed tree and then old man winter moved in. After 10 days, i dumped the fuel and ran it dry to prevent problems and have been focused more on winter stuff for now.

Here's my thoughts, see what people think... keep in mind i'm doing this as a rather novice woodsman/chain saw person:

1) Gonna get chaps, gloves, head gear... non-negotiable.

2) Gonna get a 16 or 18" bar... probably one of the green bars, maybe a low kickback chain also, at least to start. Have been watching lotsa videos and learning as much as I can. Will also try to take a forestry/cutting course if time and convenience allow. Hope to "mature" into that pro level 20" bar.

3) Also gonna get a file set and learn how to sharpen the blade. Stihl dealer sells them and said he'd be happy to teach me how to do it properly.

Questions/advice:

1) Opinions on the green bar and chain... i've been reading that sharpening the low kickback chain might be a PITA. I want to be safe and cautious... need my hands/legs and head. Read some advice about running the safer gear for 40-50 tanks before changing up. I realize it'll probably cut slower, etc but it's time i'm willing to spend.

2) overall, what bar/chain combos should I look at for the 260 Pro? Already have the 20" but figure that might be a little overkill (dealer said he liked the 20" bar since it saved his back/knees from bending more) and that the 16 or 18 will be better... i'm sure i'll end up with all 3 eventually. Advantage to the 3/8" set up is that i can swap them if I ever grow into a bigger saw

Thanks again... will work on getting some pics up in the spring once she's running. Until then, it's all about the Cub Cadet snowblower for me.
 
Ex,

1. I found a few things with the "safety" chain: I was LESS cautious because I thought the chain would do its job, it took longer and I got more fatigued--never a good thing when using a power tool--and it was harder to keep sharp, which seemed to negate the "safety" concept in the first place. I think a standard chain, sharpened, is overall just as if not more safe given the former considerations.

2. I use an 18" exclusively--it's a good size both for bucking and limbing. I would start there and see what you like better. If you're doing more bucking than limbing, I wouldn't even bother with a 16".

S
 
S-

Thanks for the info... i am leaning towards a normal chain and just being smart and cautious about it.

1 other area i could use some advice: Bars

Sounds like 18" is the sweet spot. Now, brings 2 questions:

1) Type of bar: safety vs regular- does it make a difference? Speed isn't a concern... even aside from safety, any thing in particular to be looking at in a bar? Lower weight is nice but it's not a huge saw to begin with and i think i'd rather have good balance for safety.

2) Bar makers- always stick with Stihl or look at Oregon or others?

Thanks again in advance!

-Matt
 
Greetings and Good Morning,
Good idea on the chain--I think cutting with caution is the key.
There's no such thing as a 'safety' bar, least not that I've heard of. I like keeping with brand, and the Stihl bars' paint lasts longest. That being said, I've always thought Sugihara bars are sexy. And super light. You might look to Bailey's for one of their bar & 2 loop specials. Although I prefer Stihl chain (seems to last longest), the combos are often a great deal.

S
 
thinkxingu said:
Greetings and Good Morning,
There's no such thing as a 'safety' bar, least not that I've heard of.

Well, i guess stihl considers any of their green labeled bars as "reduced kickback bars":

"STIHL recommends the use of green reduced kickback bars and green low kickback chains on all STIHL chain saws." (from the safety bulletin posted at bottom of page here: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/)

but do reduced KB bars only work when paired with a reduced kb chain?

here's a list of the stihl guidebars: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/guidebars.html#light

Appears that rollomatic E and E Light are labeled "green" while the Rollomatic ES and Duromatic have more "orange" splotches on the base of the bar.
 
If you ever lay a E bar on top of a ES bar you will see the E bar's tip is much narrower.... It is my understanding that this it help prevent kickbacks....
 
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