Chain won't stay on bar

[Stelcom66]

Was going to use my Husqvarna 440 saw today, but the chain was partially off the bar. Last time I used it in the early spring I didn't realize that happened. Took the bar off and cleaned the grooves, there was quite a bit of dirt/debris in there. Still, the chain just won't stay in the grooves on one side. I got it to go in the bottom, then the top part of the chain would be out of the groove. I had it on, within all the grooves and before tightening the chain and the nut to hold the cover on I was able to easily move it. As soon as I tightened them it came out of the grooves on the bottom.

Could the bar have gotten bent? I wouldn't think it's the chain, purchased that in November 2017.

 

[lsucet]

Be sure is mounted properly on the gear. I will take it off and check it on top of a flat surface like a table, counter, glass etc.

 

[Stelcom66]

Ok - that would indicate whether it's warped/bent.

 

[Dataman]

How old is it? ie how many cuts on it. Could be worn out.

 

[Stelcom66]

Purchased October 2014. From fall to winter I'd say I use it maybe weekly for about 20 minutes or so. When I say the chain won't stay in the grooves this is before starting it, just moving it by hand. Do you mean the bar itself could be worn?

 

[Dataman]

Yes they wear out.

 

[SpaceBus]

Sounds like the drive teeth aren't seated in the sprocket. I had this issue when I got my 346 back from getting worked on. After not touching the saw for six months it's like I forgot how to use it and couldn't get the chain to go on properly. For a few minutes I even considered that the builder might have swapped sprockets for some reason, but after an embarrassing phone call I got the chain on properly. I really like my Husqvarna saws, but don't care for the external clutch which makes fitting the chain a real pain.

Five years of cutting on one bar is a long time as well, so your bar could also be worn out. It's never a bad idea to have a spare so you could treat yourself to a lightweight Tsumura bar. This way if you get in a pinch, you can throw the old one on (if it is still acceptable for use) and get yourself out.

 

[duramaxman05]

Check to see if the bar has a pinch in it anywhere. Also check all your drive links. They could a bur on one or a couple of them causing them not to go into the groove of the bar. My 421 dolmar does this when the chain comes off

 

[Stelcom66]

I didn't consider the bar could be worn to cause a concave section as shown in the video. I'll admit there have been a couple times where it was low on bar oil. I'll also double check how the chain seats in the sprockets.

I checked a few of the stores around here, one has a Husqvarna bar. The different brands seemed to be priced about the same.

 

[Ashful]

All manufacturers make a wide range of bar types and qualities, the Tsumura bar from Total that SpaceBus mentioned is one good option, but certainly not the only one of its type. But I’d frankly be a little surprised if you wore out a bar at your usage rate, even if you had an oil-less incident.

You said the chain was mounted on the bar wrong from last spring, and sat that way all summer. So, why is there an assumption that the chain is not bent? That would cause exactly what you’re seeing, unless I missed something in skimming the prior posts.

To check if bar is pinched, turn your chain inside out and run a drive tooth down the length of each groove on the bar, to see if it’s catching anywhere.

While you have the bar off the saw, note the little grease holes near the tip of the bar, if you have ‘em. Clean them out with a pin or a pick, and squirt a shot of grease in one side until it comes out the sprocket tip or the other side. This is one of the most oft-neglected items in chainsaw maintenance, and the death of many sprocket tip bars. Stihl got rid of their grease holes a few years ago, but Husqvarna still had them last I checked, and so does the Total Tsumura sprocket tip bar.

 

[Stelcom66]

The chain was out of the bar grooves in a couple places when I was going to use it yesterday, so it is possible it could be bent from last time I used it. I may have a spare chain that I'll try - and re-inspect the bar as noted.

 

[Stelcom66]

Not sure why. but after reassembling the bar and chain this time the chain moves in the grooves easily. Been a while since I replaced the chain, and it may have been stupid what I was doing - setting the saw on it's side while doing the installation. This time it was upright.

Not my day though, now it won't start. I read the manual about needing the chain brake to be engaged before starting, but I noticed the handle moved without any clicks. Got that working properly, pushing the lever forward will click and lock the chain, pulling back releases. I know I've started it with the brake disengaged.

If I have time I may work on it during the week. If no luck I'll create another topic on that, but not before doing research here and elsewhere. Thanks for the help on this topic.

 

[walhondingnashua]

I do that with my Husky a lot, especially when I'm in a hurry. I get the chain stuck between the sprocket and the cover and as soon as I start the saw the chain flies off. You aren't the only one.

 

[Stelcom66]

I get the chain stuck between the sprocket and the cover and as soon as I start the saw the chain flies off.

I should have used a different title to the thread. The chain never flew off the bar, before starting the chain would not stay in the grooves of a small section of the bar when moved by hand. Sounds dangerous what you experienced - hope you didn't get hurt !

I replaced the spark plug with a similar plug from my weedwacker, still wouldn't even try to start. I to check for a spark on the plug.

 

[Stelcom66]

The spark is fine. I may start a new topic for the no start situation.

 

[Stelcom66]

No luck trying to start it last weekend - not even any sign of it starting. It was like trying to start something completely out of gas. Just for the heck of it tried it today, did the starting procedure exactly by the book, and it started. Was even able to cut a bit of wood. I have no idea why it started today, I don't think I've always started it as the manual says.

The only thing so far is it does tend to stall after letting it idle for a while, that's nothing new. I may need to buy a carburetor adjustment tool. I don't know if something else can be substituted for it since from online pictures I can't really tell what the end looks like. I see an H and an L hole, will read the manual before making any adjustments.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

No luck trying to start it last weekend - not even any sign of it starting. It was like trying to start something completely out of gas. Just for the heck of it tried it today, did the starting procedure exactly by the book, and it started. Was even able to cut a bit of wood. I have no idea why it started today, I don't think I've always started it as the manual says.

The only thing so far is it does tend to stall after letting it idle for a while, that's nothing new. I may need to buy a carburetor adjustment tool. I don't know if something else can be substituted for it since from online pictures I can't really tell what the end looks like. I see an H and an L hole, will read the manual before making any adjustments.

You could take it to a dealer and ask them to adjust it for you .The dealer I use will not charge me for doing that.

 

[Stelcom66]

You could take it to a dealer and ask them to adjust it for you .The dealer I use will not charge me for doing that.

There is one local dealer around here that may do the same. I did find the 'T' screw access the manual was referring to for the idle adjustment. I'll try that next time.

It's good for the dealer to do favors like that. Once I thought the bar was bad, but the tech identified the chain as being bad. After I bought the new chain he put it on. I'll keep coming back and gave them good review online.

 

[Ashful]

My dealer will give any saw bought there a once-over, any time you bring it in. Not sure what they'd do with a saw you didn't buy there, or if they'd even know without seeing another dealer's sticker on the air cleaner, but they know the faces of all their regular customers and treat them well.

They happen to sell Stihl, Husq., and Echo, so no brand loyalties, there. I bought my largest Stihl and my smallest Husq. there, but if I were doing it again, it'd be all Stihl.

 

[fire_man]

Yes they wear out.

That video was PACKED with great info. This may explain why I just can't seem to cut straight anymore with a brand new chain. The groove may have worn too wide.

 

[Stelcom66]

Good thing it ended up working. Adjusted the idle, ran fine this weekend when I needed it for sections of a tree lost from a storm that took out power for 36 hours. Used the wood stove for the first time this season Wednesday evening when power went out. Thankfully not like the storm 8 years ago a few days before Halloween. No electricity for 9 days then.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

OK .... now tell us what was the problem/s ….

 

[Stelcom66]

For the chain not staying on the bar - I think I was simply positioning the saw wrong. I had the saw on it's side, when I got the chain on successfully I had it upright. As for not starting - I replaced the fuel lines, cleaned the carburetor and air filter but it still wouldn't start. The following weekend it started, can't explain that.

I still need to get a fuel filter, I didn't get one after I took the old one off since I thought maybe the carburetor was shot. Hopefully I can find one locally. So, I did use it for about 10 minutes without a fuel filter which I know isn't good.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Run some seafoam thru the fuel tank ...

 

[Stelcom66]

I've heard that's good for older vehicle engines like mine. I may get some.