WoodMann said:
yup that's what i do too.....BUT the i run my guide bar across this,for the next 2 loops of saw chain.
Chain Tensioning
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yup that's what i do too.....BUT the i run my guide bar across this,for the next 2 loops of saw chain.
When tensioning the chain, don't loosen the bar to where it's sloppy. Just loose enough that it will slide with the adjustment screw.
When you tighten it up, re-check. If it was too loose during adjustment, & you tightened it just right, it might get a little tighter when tightened.
fyrwoodguy nice set-up. Husky service center?
When you tighten it up, re-check. If it was too loose during adjustment, & you tightened it just right, it might get a little tighter when tightened.
fyrwoodguy nice set-up. Husky service center?
Lift front of bar, hold and tighten to just feel a bit of resistance. Tighten down bar nuts and check that it is good to go. You do need a bit more if you are running a longer bar and chain.
Takes a little time to figure out where you should be. Remember hot chains will run a bit looser so tighten when cold and know it will get a bit smoother.
Chad
Takes a little time to figure out where you should be. Remember hot chains will run a bit looser so tighten when cold and know it will get a bit smoother.
Chad
btw, BOUGHT THE 16" BAR FOR MY 357XP, installed it and man does it rip. anyone that says it wouldnt be faster than the 20" is a liar. it is way faster.
Adirondackwoodburner said:
Yup, it would be.... Remember, you have a basic division of energy problem w/ any saw - at a given RPM it puts out X amount of power, and must spend part of it on dragging the chain around the bar, and part of it on cutting... The less it spends on dragging the chain around, the more it spends on cutting...
Another thing that can sometimes get more power out of a saw, especially when running a short bar, is to increase the sprocket size... Typically you have to be running a "rim sprocket" to do this, and you must be in a situation where the saw is showing signs of having lots of extra power under full load... Going to a sprocket with one more tooth means that the chain will have to travel faster at the same saw engine RPM, and at least in theory, the faster the chain is moving, the faster it will cut....
Gooserider
lots of good info here..............http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=0&vt=0&vb=0&id=0
well, I am happy with just having the 16" bar on now for bucking. I cant imagine it needing to be any faster!
Adirondackwoodburner said:
I wouldnt think the rim sprocket would help much on what your running. Sounds like your in the sweet spot of your saw now..
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