Get started hand filing your chains whether in the field with a stump vise, or in the shop ( with or without Sealcove's beers :cheese: ).
A new chain gives you the opportunity to carefully see the angles, raker height, generally how the chain should look when near perfect. My preference is to spend slightly more for Stihl chains; extra chrome seem to make then last longer cutting a variety of trees. Most pros seem to prefer Stihl chains.
For the finest in hand filing look for the PFERD "SharpForce" or other model name of Pferd sold by Husky. This Pferd tool does the edge and raker with each pass. You need the correct size file and Pferd tool for each sized chain.
Now there isn't any rule about when to sharpen the chain such as "every tank" :red: . Normal chips look like solid shaped chips except when ripping or quartering trunks. When cutting clean Paper Birch, a sharp chain could easily go through 4 or 5 tankfulls. Then, cutting dead standing Red Oak that tends to "suck" dirt up the cambium (under the bark), one tank of cuts will dull even a new chain. When you feel that the saw is "bogging down", the chain not pulling itself into the cut, or, the chips are now sawdust, it's time to sharpen.
Too many of the sharpening machines can burn the chain easily, ruining the hardness. Some of the not so professional shops I've had to use for grinding after hitting barbed wire, shell casings, or other metal in the wood do lousy work and blacken the chain. Don't accept it.
When hand filing becomes routine, you'll be able to hand file in about the same time it takes to set up and run a machine. Much cheaper and satisfying with the Maine micro brew we all love and admire. :cheese:
A new chain gives you the opportunity to carefully see the angles, raker height, generally how the chain should look when near perfect. My preference is to spend slightly more for Stihl chains; extra chrome seem to make then last longer cutting a variety of trees. Most pros seem to prefer Stihl chains.
For the finest in hand filing look for the PFERD "SharpForce" or other model name of Pferd sold by Husky. This Pferd tool does the edge and raker with each pass. You need the correct size file and Pferd tool for each sized chain.
Now there isn't any rule about when to sharpen the chain such as "every tank" :red: . Normal chips look like solid shaped chips except when ripping or quartering trunks. When cutting clean Paper Birch, a sharp chain could easily go through 4 or 5 tankfulls. Then, cutting dead standing Red Oak that tends to "suck" dirt up the cambium (under the bark), one tank of cuts will dull even a new chain. When you feel that the saw is "bogging down", the chain not pulling itself into the cut, or, the chips are now sawdust, it's time to sharpen.
Too many of the sharpening machines can burn the chain easily, ruining the hardness. Some of the not so professional shops I've had to use for grinding after hitting barbed wire, shell casings, or other metal in the wood do lousy work and blacken the chain. Don't accept it.
When hand filing becomes routine, you'll be able to hand file in about the same time it takes to set up and run a machine. Much cheaper and satisfying with the Maine micro brew we all love and admire. :cheese:
