Chain sharpening

[charly]

It also depends on your circumstance. I'm going grinder in a few days, I've been hand filing mine and my customers chains but with customers dropping 12-15 chains at a time, I'm falling behind. Great results can be obtained with a grinder, skilled hand filing will always be sharper. In either case, the end result depends on the operator much more so than the tool.

If I was mostly sharpening for me and on my own time, I would stick with the files. But when your handed a rocked out 28" loop, that takes more time with a file than I could reasonably charge for. Folks don't want to pay more than $5-$8 to sharpen a chain and at my shop labor rate, that means I need to be done with a chain in 6 - 9 minutes or else I'm taking a pay cut.

12-15 chains, I'd have a grinder as well...can't blame you one bit.. Why give your work away?

 

[USMC80]

sorry to hijack but looking at the Granberg bar mount sharpener. Anyone have any experience using this?

http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Bar-Mount-Chain-Sharpener-G-106B/dp/B0002ZY1WG

 

[mecreature]

I've never had an issues hand filing, depends on how you put pressure on the file. For me a use one hand on the tip of the file and the other on the handle. My gullets seem to stay open to the point I have to watch the tie strap. Plus I twist my file as I push it through.. I think it's more of a problem with people who just file with on hand on the handle.. Depending on the angle sometimes some up pressure is needed so you don't get big hook with a thin razor edge that will dull quick.. I know what your saying...

I agree. you can get a more even pressure going the direction you want. It again comes to keeping it sharp.
If you have a really crummy chain you tend to want to put a lot of pressure on it. It will just make a bad sharpening job worse.

I cant see me spending the money for a grinder for my 6 chains...

I always use a set of high power reading glasses when I sharpen.
When I first started sharpening I would take a few strokes and look at it with a magnifying glass to see what you are taking off.
You can get a good idea of where it is going from there.

 

[smithm1979]

Usmc80
I have that granberg mount. Little hard to understand at first (not very good instructions) but it seems to do a good job. Definitely keeps your file at the correct angle, much better than you could do free hand.

 

[USMC80]

Usmc80
I have that granberg mount. Little hard to understand at first (not very good instructions) but it seems to do a good job. Definitely keeps your file at the correct angle, much better than you could do free hand.

Thanks Smith! I've read good reviews, only negative is what you said about the instructions. I guess ill give it a go.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Just wondering, how long do you usually use a chain before it needs to be sharpened again? What does it usually cost you (if you don't do it yourself)

I had my blade sharpened about 2 weeks ago and I've cut about 2 or 3 cords of wood with it and it's dull again. Just wondering if that is normal or if I am doing something wrong. They charge me $10 to sharpen the chain

1) Chainsaws do not have "blades." They have bars and chains.

2) I usually cut with a sharp chain till it gets dull. I've never come close to 2 or 3 cords without sharpening. On my best day of 20+ years of wood cutting I might have got through 1/2 a cord on a single sharpening.

3) Learn to file yourself and save that $10

 

[charly]

1) Chainsaws do not have "blades." They have bars and chains.

2) I usually cut with a sharp chain till it gets dull. I've never come close to 2 or 3 cords without sharpening. On my best day of 20+ years of wood cutting I might have got through 1/2 a cord on a single sharpening.

3) Learn to file yourself and save that $10

Sharpening by hand has made me more cautious as to what your cutting into and near, as far as rocks, barbed wire in trees, etc... The upside, a touch up takes less then 5 minutes so no big down time...

 

[Woody Stover]

I usually cut with a sharp chain till it gets dull. I've never come close to 2 or 3 cords without sharpening.

If that sucker isn't throwing some big chips, but is starting to throw some dust, I swap it out. Redd, don't you use chipper chain? Still not making it through a cord doesn't surprise me, and I sure can't with chisel chain.

Sharpening by hand has made me more cautious as to what your cutting into and near, as far as rocks, barbed wire in trees, etc

I usually don't have much problem with grit in the soil but I was cutting in the bottom of a ravine the other day where there was exposed rock. I don't think I hit any rocks but I wonder if rain splashed some sand up on the wood; Roasted two chains inside of five minutes. Chaps yer arse when you sharpen 'em by hand.

 

[smokinj]

I've never had an issues hand filing, depends on how you put pressure on the file. For me a use one hand on the tip of the file and the other on the handle. My gullets seem to stay open to the point I have to watch the tie strap. Plus I twist my file as I push it through.. I think it's more of a problem with people who just file with on hand on the handle.. Depending on the angle sometimes some up pressure is needed so you don't get big hook with a thin razor edge that will dull quick.. I know what your saying...

Can you post a close up like the one I got? Twist or not the file once it cuts enough it will make a Chanel the size of your file.

 

[Woody Stover]

Can you post a close up like the one I got? Twist or not the file once it cuts enough it will make a Chanel the size of your file.

That's why I like to use the jig every third or fourth time. The clamps hold the chain down and the file stays at the level you set it. File can't drop into the gullet (or the chain can't lift up, causing the file to get to the bottom of the gullet.)

 

[smokinj]

That's why I like to use the jig every third or fourth time. The clamps hold the chain down and the file stays at the level you set it. File can't drop into the gullet (or the chain can't lift up, causing the file to get to the bottom of the gullet.)

Any close ups pics?

 

[Woody Stover]

Any close ups pics?

They may have a deep gullet if I had sharpened several times before truing them up with the jig. But I'm only concerned with the top of the tooth. After I true the chain, it will look like this....the top of the tooth will have a different angle than the gullet. On the Stihl 33 RS chain I use, only the top of the tooth is cutting. If you imagine cutting a log from the bottom, with the top of the bar, and look at the cutting edge from the front of the tooth, it will look somewhat like the number "7". Only the top 1/2 of the "7" is cutting, and it will have the angles I want. The gullet area isn't doing any cutting.

Check out the middle pic here:
(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_teeth_types.htm)

This chain was on about the fourth freehand sharpening; I get lazy and don't want to take the extra time of using the jig. Need to score that grinder that an old boy offered to sell me a while back.

(broken image removed)

(broken image removed)

 

[smokinj]

That what most think but it really comes down to clearing chips. Not much different than keeping everything clean. That is a lot better than i normal see as well Nice Job! If you can get a little deeper into that gullet it will stay sharp longer.

 

[Woody Stover]

Not much different than keeping everything clean.

That's gotta be the filthiest tooth ever! And if you look closely, you can see that one is dull....front edge is pretty shiny.

 

[smokinj]

That's gotta be the filthiest tooth ever! And if you look closely, you can see that one is dull....front edge is pretty shiny.

Only part I would judge is the part the file touched. I got pic's of milling chains that will curl a hand filers toes!

 

[Thistle]

I watch the chips,definitely dont wait until its powder before getting out the file.Denser woods like Honey Locust,White Oak,dry Mulberry etc will have slightly smaller chips mixed in even with a new out of the box or freshly sharpened chain.

And that .404 square chisel full skip basically makes mulch,no matter what wood I'm cutting!

 

[Bigg_Redd]

If that sucker isn't throwing some big chips, but is starting to throw some dust, I swap it out. Redd, don't you use chipper chain? Still not making it through a cord doesn't surprise me, and I sure can't with chisel chain.
I usually don't have much problem with grit in the soil but I was cutting in the bottom of a ravine the other day where there was exposed rock. I don't think I hit any rocks but I wonder if rain splashed some sand up on the wood; Roasted two chains inside of five minutes. Chaps yer arse when you sharpen 'em by hand.

Skip tooth round bit chains. Stihl. Not sure what the official designation is.

 

[charly]

Can you post a close up like the one I got? Twist or not the file once it cuts enough it will make a Chanel the size of your file.

I do what Woodystover does, install my oregon jig and raise the file up so I'm filing higher again into the cutter face, once I see the deep gullet starting to form.. At the same time I dial caliper my cutters before mounting the jig so I know where I'm going to file too as to have all the cutters the same length...

 

[Ashful]

At the same time I dial caliper my cutters before mounting the jig so I know where I'm going to file too as to have all the cutters the same length...

I wonder why you want all the teeth to the same length? Why not take the same number of swipes on each tooth, and let them be where they be? There will be some very minimal different in tooth heights, but that's surely an issue more of theory than practicality, assuming you lower each depth gauge properly in relation to its own cutter. Seems to me you're doing a LOT of extra work for some very minimal / theoretical gain.

 

[charly]

I wonder why you want all the teeth to the same length? Why not take the same number of swipes on each tooth, and let them be where they be? There will be some very minimal different in tooth heights, but that's surely an issue more of theory than practicality, assuming you lower each depth gauge properly in relation to its own cutter. Seems to me you're doing a LOT of extra work for some very minimal / theoretical gain.

I found that free hand filing in between the jig use, you don't keep them as even as you think, so I like to bring things back to pretty even.. I've been doing it for 35 years so it goes very quick for me... Keeping the teeth all the same length ,,,, all the cutters take the same amount of bite providing the raker heights have all been set with a gauge as well = smooth cutting chain...

 

[MasterMech]

I usually cut with a sharp chain till it gets dull.

Now that just makes sense now doesn't it?

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Now that just makes sense now doesn't it?

It was the gentlest way I could answer a dumb question. If I make 10 cuts with a new chain and it dulls, I sharpen it. If I make 100 cuts and it's still cutting good, I keep cutting. It's a very simple principle but is somehow beyond the grasp of many otherwise very capable people.

 

[MasterMech]

It was the gentlest way I could answer a dumb question. If I make 10 cuts with a new chain and it dulls, I sharpen it. If I make 100 cuts and it's still cutting good, I keep cutting. It's a very simple principle but is somehow beyond the grasp of many otherwise very capable people.

I couldn't imagine re-sharpening every tank of gas with my MS460's. I'd never get anything done.

 

[smokinj]

I couldn't imagine re-sharpening every tank of gas with my MS460's. I'd never get anything done.

Busting that 460 right you should have enough work for a few guys with a tank of fuel. Go home and sharpen in the shop where its heated...

 

[MasterMech]

Busting that 460 right you should have enough work for a few guys with a tank of fuel. Go home and sharpen in the shop where its heated...

Two tanks will load the truck most days. And you've seen my loads.