Chain hit metal or a rock

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Once you get even half decent at hand filing it doesn't take very long to touch up a chain (after every tank is a pretty reliable schedule...)When you get a little more comfortable you can make a badly rocked tooth serviceable in not very many strokes.

files, like chains, need to be sharp to be effective. A decent handle helps some. You can make a good one out of a stick.. I've broken a couple of plastic ones in cold weather when the file slipped and then the handle split while re-setting the file.

Btw, there's only one good depth gauge;
[Hearth.com] Chain hit metal or a rock


ridiculously overpriced little pieces of sheet steel. And they didn't even take the burr off the underside edges of the ones I have. I worked pretty effectively for years without them. Although I think my chains are generally smoother now. As someone here said, you don't have to touch the rakers very often.

I'm glad I learned to hand file. For over 20 years I didn't even know there was any other way ;em
 
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It's not just oil, bars wear and flare out and need to be dressed. Sprocket tips wear out too.
 
[Hearth.com] Chain hit metal or a rock

I use a ski edge sharpener that is very similar to this to dress my bars. The one in the picture is sold as a bar dressing tool and is basically exactly the same as an edge sharpener for skis.
 
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[Hearth.com] Chain hit metal or a rock


I've been wondering if one of these thingamajigs works good to close bar rails???
 
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I've been wondering if one of these thingamajigs works good to close bar rails???
Economics. I've got over 100 cords processed between my current three saws, and none are anywhere near showing any need for bar dressing, yet. Short of something like lubrication failure or overheating by running a dull chain, I'm not sure how many miles you need to put onto a bar to actually need service, but it appears to be more than any normal firewood cutter is going to see in a decade or three.

I also have a pro saw shop, who work almost exclusively on saws for arborists, with guys who actually do these operations on a daily basis. So, not only is it likely cheaper to just let them do those ops, they're likely going to do a better job at it than any DIY'er who does it on the frequency most of us would require.

I think that, unless you're using a saw to make your living, where you're really racking up some more serious hours, it's very likely always going to be cheaper to just have a pro shop do it.
 
I guess you haven't tried that tool then.
hah... nope. Sorry.

How many hours/cords are you putting on a single saw that you'd really need this tool?

The only time I've ever owned a bar that needed serious dressing was when I inherited one on an abused saw (my Stihl 036 PRO). In that case between the wear, splaying, heat damage, and an iffy sprocket nose bearing, I just threw it away and replaced it with a new Carlson bar. I just don't see many opportunities for an amateur to need to reset the bar gauge, unless the bar has been abused with lack of oil and overheating, in which case it's probably trash anyway.
 
I use the stihl 2 in 1 file and it seems to work great for me. I've cut through some metal and is was producing sawdust. I was able to save the chain with the stihl tool and some patience.
Same sharpener i use... I use my saw for trail maintanance and always hitting things.. I sharpen my chain right down to nothing almost..
 
hah... nope. Sorry.

How many hours/cords are you putting on a single saw that you'd really need this tool?

The only time I've ever owned a bar that needed serious dressing was when I inherited one on an abused saw (my Stihl 036 PRO). In that case between the wear, splaying, heat damage, and an iffy sprocket nose bearing, I just threw it away and replaced it with a new Carlson bar. I just don't see many opportunities for an amateur to need to reset the bar gauge, unless the bar has been abused with lack of oil and overheating, in which case it's probably trash anyway.
I have some old-ish saws bought new (mid to late eighties and early 90's stuff) and some old-ish saws bought used (similar period), as well as some new model saws bought used and new. I refrain from buying saws without chain brakes. Personal fears I guess, but it has been very tempting at times..I prefer running the older ones. They are not so finicky and just run. I don't have a lot -about a dozen runners so none of them see that many hours in a year. They are all known good models of pro saws, except perhaps my Echo 590, which is also a known good model but not a pro saw.

Invariably, the used saws whether recent models or older models need immediate maintenance, especially to bars and chains. So I do it. Then the bars are good again for a long time. Otherwise they are trash or are quickly working their way to trash.

I burn far more gas cleaning fencelines and doing general farm chores than cutting my 6 or 7 cords of firewood that I need. That barely seems like much work at all, quite frankly. I'm a bit of a 2 stroke junky. We junkies don't let anyone else mess with our machines, and we are quite proficient with all aspects of them.

I read in some thread here a while back that you have spent much time and care and attention restoring/maintaining the old windows in your house. Why didn't you just replace them? Or hire someone to do that work for you? You see? I get it. I would do the same myself...
 
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I guess if you continually pinch your bar in the tree I guess you would need that tool ...
 
If you continually pinch your bar you better revise your technique.

that tool is not necessary, as bars can be refurbished with a mill bastard and a hammer and anvil. It just struck me as something that might be convenient.
 
I have a 3x72 belt sander grinder for knife making that has a guide that i set at 90 degrees from the belt for dressing bars,you can get in close to the sprocket with it.
I have a couple chain grinders i use to bring chains back to life.One is set for rakers and the other is for the teeth.I have about 50Lbs of chain in buckets that i have either found at the dump or bought at garage sales, and i have about 25 Lbs of chain on a board sorted by size.When i need a chain and bar for a saw i am going to sell the bar gets trued and a chain gets sharpened.
When i am cutting i am close enough to home where i just take 3 saws with me.For touch up i use the 12 volt dremel type tool.I have hand files that get used as well.All i cut is spruce so a sharp chain lasts a long time.
 
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I read in some thread here a while back that you have spent much time and care and attention restoring/maintaining the old windows in your house. Why didn't you just replace them? Or hire someone to do that work for you? You see? I get it. I would do the same myself...
Oh yeah, I definitely get it. My main hobby in my 20's was restoring big industrial woodworking machines, which was then used for restoring doors and windows, or my old wood boat. We are simpatico, there.

To me, these 2-stroke machines are not a hobby, just a means to an end. But I can also understand the guy for whom woodburning is as much an excuse to tinker with vintage saws, as well as anything in-between.
 
I started burning wood again when i built my boiler system
Which ment getting back into using a saw for getting firewood.At that point i had a couple 026/260's that were running and willed to me.I had loaned out my saws for years when i didn't firewood,some didn't come back
Once my house was done,and i had the warm boiler building being used for nothing, i get back into fixing saws.
14 years later i have over 100 vintage saws,most of Stihls lineup,probably 200 saws that are parts or project saws i haven't got to yet.
Have a 40' semi trailer that is my saw shed.
And it all started on these pages. Since i have found a couple other sites for chainsaw stuffs.
I fix and sell about 6 saws a years now.I ussaly use them for cutting firewood for a season then sell them.
 
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