Yes but those normal clearances don't apply when the stove is installed in a way that traps heat differently than intended
ceiling of alcove
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The stove is in a non-combustible enclosure, much like a fireplace. I don't recall special side trim clearances in that case but will have to look up a couple of radiant stove requirements for fireplace installation to verify.
edit: the VC Encore has the same side trim clearances for a fireplace install as for sidewall clearance with no flue collar shield.
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Wow, thanks for the thumbs up on how it looks (and also all the help again) and I'll try to answer the questions/concerns. The entire alcove is non combustible. Framed in metal framing with older durock. The wood is more than 18" from the stove and the I boxed out the ceiling rafters above the alcove and framed that in a heavy gauge metal. The wood you see going across the front will be the mantel, which I am hoping is OK. Behind that there is tubular steel with some threaded nuts welded in and metal tabs on the edges that hooked into the framing. I am thinking that I will build a mantel that will have a way for hot air to move through, if need be (a 1" screened channel on the top and bottom) It will basically be a hollow box beam. The distance from the sides of the stove to the trim surrounding the tiles is more than 18" and I am thinking the stove will probably be fully within the alcove. I also angled the sides of the firebox, hoping that that, like with a rumford, could help direct heat out. Thanks again,
Rob
Rob
But it isn't a fireplace. A fireplace requires atleast 8" of solid masonry on a floor of solid masonry masonry above at specific thicknesses with clearance etc.
As I said I have no clue if it poses a safety risk or not. I don't think anyone does.
Yes, it certainly lacks testing documentation. It's too bad this is not better tested and defined. The look is a very frequent request here. Unfortunately, most of the visual examples people post are from the UK with entirely masonry enclosures.
Good morning
I am building again and am going to put the chimney through the attic and above the new roof (I am doing some framing on that as well as it is original 1910 and undersized and underspaced). The home is a fairly traditional 1910 craftsman and we removed a brick chimney when replacing the foundation for seismic safety. I would like to replicate that look as much as possible and am planning on building a chase through the attic and out the roof. I have never done that before and was thinking I would use similar gauge galvanized studs and tracks and durock again. Does this make sense? And the roof is an 8:12 pitch. I am thinking of going above the lower part of the "chimney " chase by about 5' and then having the metalbestos rise above to needed height. I would like to cover that with a thin brick veneer. I will also be running a galvanized kitchen exhaust hood pipe through the chase. (the chimney had both). I will need a custom cover I assume. Any recommendations?
As discussed in a. way earlier part of this thread, it was recommended I use double wall for the entire thing and I have bought what I hope is enough metalbestos for the job. One question I have is if in the attic I can use a Tee in the attic as a cleanout (I am thinking like plumbing, where instead of sweeping the chimney from the roof, I'd be able to do it from the attic.)
Thanks again for all of your help and guidance. I am looking forward to finally being able to use my woodstove again this winter and could not have done it without you.
I am building again and am going to put the chimney through the attic and above the new roof (I am doing some framing on that as well as it is original 1910 and undersized and underspaced). The home is a fairly traditional 1910 craftsman and we removed a brick chimney when replacing the foundation for seismic safety. I would like to replicate that look as much as possible and am planning on building a chase through the attic and out the roof. I have never done that before and was thinking I would use similar gauge galvanized studs and tracks and durock again. Does this make sense? And the roof is an 8:12 pitch. I am thinking of going above the lower part of the "chimney " chase by about 5' and then having the metalbestos rise above to needed height. I would like to cover that with a thin brick veneer. I will also be running a galvanized kitchen exhaust hood pipe through the chase. (the chimney had both). I will need a custom cover I assume. Any recommendations?
As discussed in a. way earlier part of this thread, it was recommended I use double wall for the entire thing and I have bought what I hope is enough metalbestos for the job. One question I have is if in the attic I can use a Tee in the attic as a cleanout (I am thinking like plumbing, where instead of sweeping the chimney from the roof, I'd be able to do it from the attic.)
Thanks again for all of your help and guidance. I am looking forward to finally being able to use my woodstove again this winter and could not have done it without you.
That should be ok as long as clearances remain honored and it is above the attic insulation shield. Which Lopi is this for? Does it have a bypass? If so, why not clean from the bottom up through the bypass?
A bypass is a plate that the user can slide open when starting a fire. The bypass when open provides a straight passage to the flue outlet from the firebox chamber, bypassing the baffle. It looks like the Patriot does not have a bypass. Most of the larger Lopi stoves have one.
To clean from the bottom up, remove the front tube and slide out the middle baffle bricks.
To clean from the bottom up, remove the front tube and slide out the middle baffle bricks.
Thanks begreen. I already have a selkirk T that I can put in the attic at a height that makes it easier and shorter to clean the chimney. Is there a reason not to do that? (I do not have the cap but they are not that expensive)
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
With that method, how do you clean the crud that falls down and piles up on the baffle?
That's a good question. That said, I have an 8:12 roof and if I can go into my flat attic and clean to the top of the chimney from there and then remove the crud at the baffle which is probably not that hard (and the top of the flue is pretty high ). Thanks again for all of your help. I am just about done with my roof framing and am hoping to get the stove up and running in a few weeks and have been fortunate to have had this forum's help in doing so!
Hi again
I am getting to the point in the roof where I need to deal with installing wood stove pipe and it chimney. As suggested earlier, de to the weird alcove, I have bought insulated metalbestos for the entire run of chimneyflue and plan on enclosing that in both the attic and above the roofline in a historically accurate looking chimney. But I have some questions. First off, how should I connect the stove to the insulated chimney? The diameter on the stove, I believe, is set for single wall. I assume there is a transition piece for single to double? And then at the top of the first floor of the alcove, I will install a finished support package, but again the insulated pipe does not fit into that. In the attic, I will combine the flue from the stove vent with the chimeny flue, which is what the original chimney had. The vent will enter at an angle from the side of the chase so I will have an attic insulation shield (and there's a finished floor in the attic. I have two supports for the chimney in the attic above the roofline and am framing that in 12 gauge 2x steel studs and tracks which will be 10 feet from floor of attic to top of chimney. I will then put brick veneer on outside and a cover on top and have the pipes sticking up a couple more feet to get it to the 2' over anything in a ten foot radius. I am certain I am overlooking things and will need more pieces. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks again,
Rob
I am getting to the point in the roof where I need to deal with installing wood stove pipe and it chimney. As suggested earlier, de to the weird alcove, I have bought insulated metalbestos for the entire run of chimneyflue and plan on enclosing that in both the attic and above the roofline in a historically accurate looking chimney. But I have some questions. First off, how should I connect the stove to the insulated chimney? The diameter on the stove, I believe, is set for single wall. I assume there is a transition piece for single to double? And then at the top of the first floor of the alcove, I will install a finished support package, but again the insulated pipe does not fit into that. In the attic, I will combine the flue from the stove vent with the chimeny flue, which is what the original chimney had. The vent will enter at an angle from the side of the chase so I will have an attic insulation shield (and there's a finished floor in the attic. I have two supports for the chimney in the attic above the roofline and am framing that in 12 gauge 2x steel studs and tracks which will be 10 feet from floor of attic to top of chimney. I will then put brick veneer on outside and a cover on top and have the pipes sticking up a couple more feet to get it to the 2' over anything in a ten foot radius. I am certain I am overlooking things and will need more pieces. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks again,
Rob
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