MEPellethead, It could be your auger, but I still think you need to rule out a #2 snap disc issue. On the initial call for heat, the auger feeds pellets only if the vacuum switch says there is vacuum and snap disc #2 is closed. So, Kap or F F can chime in here, I think you need to find your #2 snap disc and see if that is tripped, and then consider the auger motor after you're sure #2 snap disc is good.
Castille Auger Stopped working
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Your right kap....with some might, i can turn the motor...the #2 is baffling me....I think I'm going to call the stove shop and just ask them. I dont have a multi meter...maybe ill buy one now ....
Back to a basic question here, Pellethead, is your Castile a free-standing or an Insert? Looking at the Castile Insert manual, it says the #2 snap disc is "on the back side of the feed drop tube", with 1 orange wire and 1 black wire, page 40 http://allbasicsstoves.com/Castile Insert.pdf
Well...6 seasons...never had issues. I keep everything pretty clean. The stove/parts etc have been very good to me. As for the jumping...I tried the paper clip method on the vaccum switch and the #3 switch....nothing happened. The stove shop where I bought the stove is pretty reputable....if worse comes to worse I could stop in with the auger motor and have them test it. My control board does all the normal things. When I plug in stove...and with thermostat on I can hear the control board doing its thing and if i press reset I hear the normal clicking sound calling for pellets....but hear not any sound from the auger...not even a humming or anything...
I made several jumpers with alligator clips (the insulated ones). Clip them on and test.
whats good for wire to use? Several stove sites said if you dont have a jumper wire then a paper clip would be sufficient ?
A paper clip works fine - the concern is if it gets bumped and one of the paper clip ends falls out of one the spade terminals you stuck it into, or if the paper clip touches a piece of grounded metal in your stove, it can ground out / short out either a stove component, or you if you grab it to reconnect it ! 'Defibrillating' yourself, or your stoves control board, w/ 110v is never a good thing !. 
Wrapping the paper clip and the spade terminals you're connecting to with electrical tape prevents this. I use an insulated alligator clip jumper like FF mentioned, and even those I wrap at the alligator clip / spade terminal connection with electrical tape *just in case* I bump the jumper wire, so it doesn't separate. Call me paranoid but............safety first, for me first, then for my stove and its $$$$$ control board!
Any smallish gauge wire will work, 22 or 24 AWG insulated copper wire, something about the size of the wires you're jumping is good. In a pinch you can just strip a little insulation off the wire ends, leaving the insulation in the middle of the wire, and stick the stripped wire into the spade terminals, then wrap them with electrical tape to secure them and keep from grounding out. But if you do enough electrical trouble shooting it's worth it to have a couple pre-fab ones.
Wrapping the paper clip and the spade terminals you're connecting to with electrical tape prevents this. I use an insulated alligator clip jumper like FF mentioned, and even those I wrap at the alligator clip / spade terminal connection with electrical tape *just in case* I bump the jumper wire, so it doesn't separate. Call me paranoid but............safety first, for me first, then for my stove and its $$$$$ control board!
Any smallish gauge wire will work, 22 or 24 AWG insulated copper wire, something about the size of the wires you're jumping is good. In a pinch you can just strip a little insulation off the wire ends, leaving the insulation in the middle of the wire, and stick the stripped wire into the spade terminals, then wrap them with electrical tape to secure them and keep from grounding out. But if you do enough electrical trouble shooting it's worth it to have a couple pre-fab ones.
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Safety hell, those control boxes aren't cheap!! LOLA paper clip works fine - the concern is if it gets bumped and one of the paper clip ends falls out of one the spade terminals you stuck it into, or if the paper clip touches a piece of grounded metal in your stove, it can ground out / short out either a stove component, or you if you grab it to reconnect it ! 'Defibrillating' yourself, or your stoves control board, w/ 110v is never a good thing !.
Wrapping the paper clip and the spade terminals you're connecting to with electrical tape prevents this. I use an insulated alligator clip jumper like FF mentioned, and even those I wrap at the alligator clip / spade terminal connection with electrical tape *just in case* I bump the jumper wire, so it doesn't separate. Call me paranoid but............safety first, for me first, then for my stove and its $$$$$ control board!
Any smallish gauge wire will work, 22 or 24 AWG insulated copper wire, something about the size of the wires you're jumping is good. You can just strip a little insulation off the ends and stick those into the spade terminals, then wrap them with electrical tape to secure them and keep from grounding out. But if you do enough electrical trouble shooting it's worth it to have a couple pre-fab ones.
That's why I like spade connectors.Snap em together and they ain't going anywhere, and everything is covered in plastic!A paper clip works fine - the concern is if it gets bumped and one of the paper clip ends falls out of one the spade terminals you stuck it into, or if the paper clip touches a piece of grounded metal in your stove, it can ground out / short out either a stove component, or you if you grab it to reconnect it ! 'Defibrillating' yourself, or your stoves control board, w/ 110v is never a good thing !.
Wrapping the paper clip and the spade terminals you're connecting to with electrical tape prevents this. I use an insulated alligator clip jumper like FF mentioned, and even those I wrap at the alligator clip / spade terminal connection with electrical tape *just in case* I bump the jumper wire, so it doesn't separate. Call me paranoid but............safety first, for me first, then for my stove and its $$$$$ control board!
Any smallish gauge wire will work, 22 or 24 AWG insulated copper wire, something about the size of the wires you're jumping is good. You can just strip a little insulation off the wire ends, leaving the insulation in the middle of the wire, and stick the stripped wire into the spade terminals, then wrap them with electrical tape to secure them and keep from grounding out. But if you do enough electrical trouble shooting it's worth it to have a couple pre-fab ones.
Safety hell, those control boxes aren't cheap!! LOL
That's why I like spade connectors.Snap em together and they ain't going anywhere, and everything is covered in plastic!
Well...Im about safety too...lol...I was only using the clip just to see if it was the disc that was vacuum switch or the disc. So...seeing as I bought a new #3 snap disc...I am thinking maybe it could be the vacuum switch or the auger motor...I did buy a multi meter last night...just not sure right now on the use on the stove...as in when should i look for the volts...when its calling for it to turn, correct?
Yes. Does the meter you purchased have a min/max setting? If so, you would want to activate that before you test, to be able to capture the reading for the motor. It will only have power to it for a short time. Just like the amount of time it would turn to feed pellets.
If anyone has any idea on getting to my #2 snapdisc I would appreciate the direction. Im hearing my #2 is on the backside of my drop tube....but is there an easy way to get to it?
They have 2 versions Kap. I located the pone for my stove....my stove was made in 2007...and around 2005 they switched the location of snap disc #2...its located right smack behind the "drop tube"....not the auger chute. And the only way to get to it is take the backscreen off...then take the lower covering off....and its located in a very hard to reach area.
With that said...I have replaced snap disc #2 and #3, the vacuum switch, had the auger motor tested and all was good.... I'm just baffled now....only thing left ois Control Board...can those be tested? Is there anything at home I can do to do a test?
Ok. Unplug stove. Jump vac switch wires together and the #1 snap disc wires together. Plug stove back in and set control box to 0. This is a diagnostic setting. The following components will each turn on sequentially and run for 10 seconds. Combustion Blower- Convection Blower- Feed Motor - igniter. Let me know what happens. kap
Everything came on as you said for 10 seconds EXCEPT the auger motor....the box blinked blue when first plugged in
yes...i ALWAYS unplug before i do anything with the stove
My stove place I bought the stove at is where I had the auger motor tested...they may be will to test the control box too...- Status
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