can't get glass door clean

[jetsam]

I would have guessed that you needed either mechanical abrasion or mineral deposits to do that, but the photo doesn't look like either one.

 

[Sprinter]

I would have guessed that you needed either mechanical abrasion or mineral deposits to do that, but the photo doesn't look like either one.

Yeah, and why just near the center? If it's from abrasive cleaning or chemical, I would think it would be more wide spread, or even just in the corners or edges where most soot and creosote deposits occur.

 

[jscs.moore]

Wet Balled up newspaper dipped in cold ashes. Nothing works better . doesn't cost anything won't streak like paper towels and toss it into garbage when done!

Hey...thanks for the advice! I had some cloudy glass lately so after letting my insert cool down I tried wet balled up newspaper dipped in ash and it worked like a charm...glass looks like new

 

[seabert]

I use Rutland cream glass cleaner and my glass gleams It also helps by polishing the glass so it says nice an clear longer. The more I use it the better it seems to work.

 

[Sprinter]

I use Rutland cream glass cleaner and my glass gleams It also helps by polishing the glass so it says nice an clear longer. The more I use it the better it seems to work.

I think it's a good product. I still mostly use the microfiber and ash method, but I still have some of the Rutland stuff which works well. If you are uncomfortable using ashes, that works fine. My only problem with Rutland cleaner is that I've had it smear some haze sometimes, but that's probably because I don't go over it afterwords well enough sometimes.

If you use the ashes method, be sure you use just the clean, white ashes and try to avoid any abrasive dirt that may get in there.

BTW, the reason I use a cloth rather than newspaper is that the pulp paper material tends to be abrasive itself.

 

[begreen]

I use the Rutland cleaner a few times a year. It must be cleaned off thoroughly, but does seem to help keep the glass clean. I used it in the fall before the season started. A couple days ago I cleaned out the ash and all it took was a quick wipe to clean ash off the glass that was last cleaned 6 weeks ago with 24/7 burning.

 

[Hogwildz]

x3 on Rutland. My original glass years back was etched from using a rag that had some kind of debris on it. I won't use ammonia based glass cleaner, nor ashes, nor will I clean when the glass is hot. Have not had a problem since, and plan to keep it that way. A few bucks for Rutland is worth it for me.

 

[Hogwildz]

Thanks for all the replies--I am thinking Hogwildz and BeGreen may have hit on the problem. Tried the ash trick but seems like that might just be a substitute for plain water or glass cleaner. I have no problem cleaning even gooey black or brown stuff that gets on there once in a while--but this looks more like it is in the glass--like when the seal in a double pane breaks and it get cloudy.

So if it is from overfiring that brings up a very different question--balancing full loads and risk of overfilling. Here is the situation-- I have an Alderlea T5 which can fit quite a bit of wood. I also know that I have a very good draft up my (single layer )pipe which probably hits the roof at about 20 feet. I have a Chimguard chimney thermometer which I keep about 2 feet or so above the stove. When I fill up the stove and fire it up, it can quickly shoot up to the top of the red area--it is only marked to 700 degrees so I have no idea how hot that is. If I open the door for a few minutes that will bring it down, otherwise it can stay up there for some minutes before it starts slowly coming down, even when I start closing down the damper which I do as soon as I can. Sometimes it does this (tho maybe not quite so extreme) even if I load say, 7 splits with air space in between and even if I am starting it from cold. So I have been pretty cautious about filling it tho I would like to do so on very cold days or so I can have coals when I wake up after 8 hours.

I am not sure if this is because of the wood. I have all hard wood--mostly ash, maple, oak combo--which I have seasoned 2-3 summers from green and not all of it is as dry as i would like--and some hardwood kiln dried which I mix in.

Has nothing to due with temp or overfiring. You ain't going to hurt that stove, and will get better as you hone your skills with the stove. You won't hurt that glass with temps, by the time you could reach temps that hurt that glass, you will have a molten puddle of steel on your hearth, and other worries.

 

[Sprinter]

x3 on Rutland. My original glass years back was etched from using a rag that had some kind of debris on it. I won't use ammonia based glass cleaner, nor ashes, nor will I clean when the glass is hot. Have not had a problem since, and plan to keep it that way. A few bucks for Rutland is worth it for me.

You know, I've gotten in such a habit of using a cloth and ashes, I haven't thought about the Rutlands I still have. I think I'm going to drag it out and start using it again and see. I've always been aware of the possibility of some occasional dirt in the ashes but did it anyway. I've gotten to the point that I only clean every maybe three weeks anyway and even then it's not that bad.

I would advise doing some research if you are going to use any chemicals. Some can be hard on this ceramic. BTW, Hogz mentioned rags. No matter what else you use, you are going to need a rag or two. I'd suggest using new or cleaned rags each time or two.

 

[jscs.moore]

Hello, I have an Alderlea T5 as well and I have had one instance where my stove did exactly as you describe, the dull white spot was in the center of my glass as you describe. I simply cleaned it when cool with a microfiber cloth and cleaner. Never had it happen since. Because you are seeing this issue repeatedly, I recommend using a microfiber if you haven't yet. The reason being that you may be leaving slight residue on the glass allowing it to repeat itself. Microfibers are really good at getting glass very clean.

Interesting....probably a stupid question, but what exactly is a Microfiber cloth and cleaner? Is this something you can grab at the supermarket

 

[Sprinter]

Interesting....probably a stupid question, but what exactly is a Microfiber cloth and cleaner? Is this something you can grab at the supermarket

You can get them pretty much anywhere. I got mine at Costco (a whole bunch lasted for years so far) but here's an example: The cleaner is up to you. White ashes, Rutland cleaner, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XECJES/?tag=hearthamazon-20

They are a really good general purpose cleaning cloth.

 

[begreen]

A bottle of this will last a lifetime. They should make it in a 4 oz size.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00120NMNY/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[jrems]

Tractor supply has the Rutland cleaner cheaper than Amazon. I think it was $5 last time I was there. I use it once every 2-3 weeks and still on the same bottle from 3 years ago. Use a nickel size tab on a folded paper towel and rub it in, buff off with a cloth then do a final buffing with a clean cloth and a tiny dab of the cleaner. Make sure you shake it up well too

 

[Sprinter]

Use a nickel size tab on a folded paper towel and rub it in, buff off with a cloth then do a final buffing with a clean cloth and a tiny dab of the cleaner. Make sure you shake it up well too

Pretty good advice on how to use this stuff. It can leave a bit of a smear if you don't buff up after it with a moist cloth. Otherwise, it works well. I still recommend the microfiber cloth, though

 

[excessads]

I'm with Daksy and I'd second the suggestion of damp rag with ashes ........... spray on chemical stuff. It was horrible. Corrosive. An older guy told me about the ash trick. Worked like a charm.

Ammonium based or any cleaner with strip the surface layer or quartz and tempered glass. Ash + weekly circular on my driveway I used to toss out works great.

 

[CenterTree]

I've used the Rutlands. ( i believe it is actually a silicon product of some sort with a mild abrasive added).

I like it's end results, but it is way too much messin around to get those good results. Ya gotta wipe it on, wipe it off, then wipe it off some more, and then wipe it and polish it and wipe it and, well you get the point.

After all that, it looks great, till you close the door and sit in your chair and notice all the murky swirls from not wiping enough. >

 

[jrems]

There is a technique to the Rutland. I posted earlier you need to do a final buff with a tiny amount of the cleaner. This will buff off any streaks and be spotless!

 

[Sprinter]

I love these threads. I have been using dollar store Windex knockoff and a paper towel for 40 years and the glass is crystal clear. Ten years with the current stoves.

But without threads like this, what else would you be doing? Or us for that matter... Just having fun...

 

[Hogwildz]

I don't fuss much with the Rutland. Wipe it on heavy with a clean rag, I use a swirling action.The stuff dries out, keep rubbing till the heavy comes off, then wipe off and buff with another clean rag. This happens about 3 or 4x a season. No time to space out at the stove these days.