Can't control the burn rate of a Alderlea T6 woodstove

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I never use the ash trap, so it is closed . as far as taking the door off I just lifted the door up and remove it.
Didn't change any adjustments on tha hinge side . I did change the adjustments on the door handle side.
That didn't work so I put it back where it was. I could see the paint line on the stove.
 
Another area to check and possibly not mentioned above is the ash chute - it will leak - especially if you happen to use it ... you will notice a white hot area around the chute if it is leaking.
What's the ash pan door setup on this stove? Is there a gasket on a door, with a positive latch? The Buck 91 ash drawer just slides in and its gasket contacts around end of the ash pan housing. There is a spring-steel tang that holds the pan in against the housing and the pan itself is heavy too, so it's hard to move the pan once you seat it against the gasket, but I'd prefer a more positive lock, like my Keystone has. And yes, that's how I realized I had a problem with the ash pan gasket; Coals were glowing on top of the ash pan lid.
 
There is no ashpan door or seal. The seal is at the trapdoor for the ash chute. If you never use it the ash hole is filled with compacted ash.
 
Marine,

Obviously your door is manufactured differently, our circa 2007 T6 is not pinned hinged. Could the pin hinges be bent/angled? Or are the pins bolted to the stove body or welded?

Even if you have not used the ash chute, I would be aware that it can be a source of an air leak, pressure from above or accidentally bumping the ash chute lever ....
 
The hinges are bolted onto the stove.There are 3 bolts with elongated holes . The adjustment is in and
Out only. I didn't move the hinge bar. On the lower hinge there is a bushing that has some wear, that would drop the door down. I am going to order the bushing.I also looked at where the door gasket mates to the
Stove . The mark looks like it touchs all the way around.
 
There is pressure when pulling the paper on the top of the door but much on the bottom of the door.The glass is very dirty....

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Just jumping in here and this probably won't help with your air flow control but dirty glass is a strong indicator of moisture still in the wood. Last year was my first season burning and I used dead dry pine and had dirty glass issues. It had been laying on the forest floor for a few years already and so I thought was good. Even moisture meter confirmed it. But this year I used same pine after it had been SPLIT and stacked a FULL year (as opposed to 6 months) and let me tell you how much a difference that really does make. Glass now clean and clear. You hear that on the posts here all the time but it really is the single most important thing I have learned here. Dry wood rules! When moisture is removed from the equation air is the only thing now left in your burn rate factors and improves control dramatically.
 
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Yes, the glass getting dirty is unusual. Ours gets cleaned two or three times a year and that is to remove haze not dark buildup. With no stovetop temp it's hard to know how the stove is being run, but damp wood would explain this.
 
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