MacP said:I wish I knew where the vac switch was located.
jjdesch said:It was suggested to me by a knowledgeable tech that performing the "leaf blower" trick could damage your exhaust fan by causing it to spin at much faster RPM's than it is design for, thereby potentially damaging the bushings, etc. What say ye all?
krooser said:Groundhog said:I've wondered the same thing, can't be good for the exhaust blower. I've been considering buying a pool and hooking it up to my 6.5 hp shop vac to clean my liner. The pool hoses are available up to 50 ft in length for around $30 which is less than an electric blower. I figured I could brush and then drop the vacuum hose from the top down. The bonus is all the ash would be collected instead of dusting the neighbor hood. Any thoughts?
A shop vac just ain't the same deal... the leafblower creates a 150-200 mph suction. Kinda like comparing Linda Lovelace to Mother Theresa...IMHO.
Excell said:I am just to lazy to do it by hand now that I know about this . I am just a little worried about my neighbors pool .I was on my roof yesterday and noticed it is frozen over with no lid . i wonder if I would fill it with soot . Maybe I can do it on a windy day ,and it will blow far enough that no one will know what that dust is .
SmokeyTheBear said:Now about that serious negative pressure in the stove, you see I clean my venting and such with a leaf blower (every 25 to 30 bags which is overkill) without touching the vacuum line.
So far after putting close to 18 ton through the stove and many leaf blower treatments my switch is fine, a number of combustion blowers top out at 100 CFM and that would put a leaf blower around 3 to 6 times more powerful than all but the smallest combustion blowers in terms of air flow rate.
Most vacuum switches can tolerate more than 2" of water column difference and it isn't like a pellet stove is completely closed there is an air intake that is open.
But if you are concerned about the vac switch a piece of tape over the barb or a clamp on the hose will take care of that.
whlago said:SmokeyTheBear said:Now about that serious negative pressure in the stove, you see I clean my venting and such with a leaf blower (every 25 to 30 bags which is overkill) without touching the vacuum line.
So far after putting close to 18 ton through the stove and many leaf blower treatments my switch is fine, a number of combustion blowers top out at 100 CFM and that would put a leaf blower around 3 to 6 times more powerful than all but the smallest combustion blowers in terms of air flow rate.
Most vacuum switches can tolerate more than 2" of water column difference and it isn't like a pellet stove is completely closed there is an air intake that is open.
But if you are concerned about the vac switch a piece of tape over the barb or a clamp on the hose will take care of that.
Smokey, I cleaned with the leaf blower yesterday and today all is well with my stove. I looked (somewhat quickly) for the vacuum hose but only found two electrical connections that I disconnected from the exhaust assembly. I will give it a closer look next time.
My question is do you limit the time with the door closed (a la J-Takeman) or do you even close the door at all? I feel like I might have left the door closed a bit long but, again, the stove seems to working just fine since.
smoke show said:I've already forgot to open the door before doing the LBT and nothing happened.
YMMV
SmokeyTheBear said:smoke show said:I've already forgot to open the door before doing the LBT and nothing happened.
YMMV
They say that forgetting stuff is a sign of something, but, damned if I can remember what it is.
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