Waulie
Minister of Fire
I was thinking I’d rather deal with the expense myself of replacing a crumbling cat every two years
Why would you have to do that?
I was thinking I’d rather deal with the expense myself of replacing a crumbling cat every two years
BeGreen said:That doesn't sound like a hard choice at all. One can fall back on - you didn't follow directions and have voided the warranty. The other, well, if there is no fallback, they are SOL.
BeGreen said:Ceramic cats have been out for a long time. Their operation and caveats are well described in the stove manual. And most stove companies will not honor warranty when it is obvious that the user is burning wet wood or has contaminated the cat in a short period of time. That is very different from an outright failure of the stainless cat in a short period of time with no sign of misuse.
I know Woodstock is an honorable company, which seems to put it in a very tough situation with the decision to go with the metal cats. If they are failing prematurely, WS could have a major warranty issue here.
rideau said:Terry, as far as I know, which may not be very far, the only reason to disengage the cat before opening the door is to increase draft and minimize the chance of smoke coming into the room. This applies equally to SS and ceramic cat. Both restrict air flow somewhat when engaged.
rideau said:Terry, as far as I know, which may not be very far, the only reason to disengage the cat before opening the door is to increase draft and minimize the chance of smoke coming into the room. This applies equally to SS and ceramic cat. Both restrict air flow somewhat when engaged.
adamscotera said:Hey everyone, glad I found this thread.
I've also got a ss cat in my Fireview, which burned the hell out of the smoke for the first month, then got clogged with ash. I burned for a couple of weeks with it removed (posted about that earlier), and then cleaned it out and also took out the scoop and knocked all the crud out of it. I also changed my burning habits because my wood is not dry enough- now I leave the bypass open with full draft until I get the flue temp back up to 400, then close it down to around 1 (with bypass still open) and leave it until all the wood is ignited and the fire stabilizes at 400 or higher with the lower draft. Only then do I engage the combustor, and lower the draft some more. This worked well for about a week, and then I began having trouble getting it to light off again. We had a warm day and I was able to let the stove cool down, so I took the combustor out for cleaning again. It looked fine, but I brushed it anyway and jiggled it a bit to release the ash. That's when I noticed shiny dust coming out. I jiggled a bit more and examined the floor, and sure enough there were many small particles of a bright shiny metal. Platinum flaking off? Again today I don't seem to be getting very good function.
Anybody aware of platinum flaking off combustors?
Adam
a few hours later:
The combustor is still functional. With a full load of very thin splits that really need more drying, I did my warm-up/ignition procedure and once the wood was ready, I closed the damper all the way. That was an hour and a half ago, and I've got 550 on the top and 350 on the exit pipe. There's a big glowing pile, and about every 10 seconds a wave of flame will roll across above it and fill the space for a few seconds. Nothing wrong with that. Maybe part of the problem has been too much velocity through the combustor. Still wonder how much platinum it's lost and how that will affect the longevity. But for now I'll concentrate on splitting all my wood to kindling dimensions.
BeGreen said:It's nice when life gets simpler isn't it?
Backwoods Savage said:So is the cat working? Some would immediately say no.
I think those of us who are blessed with a PH all appreciate the stove. Because we are openly discussing issues and trying to resolve glitches quickly, people who don’t have this stove are assuming it isn’t as great as it is, or that it was released too soon, or that it has major issues. In my opinion, none of that is so.
oldspark said:I dont have a cat stove either but I found this thread very interesting, the SS turning green really made me wonder what was happening so I found this little tid bit and not sure if this rings true with your cats but have a look.
"The green color that you see on stainless steel parts is chromium oxide (Cr2O3). It forms when there is too much oxygen and/or moisture in the furnace atmosphere, which is usually caused by a water leak, poor atmosphere tightness, or overly low flow rates of atmosphere gas. A dark green-brown color indicates significant levels of free oxygen inside furnace originated by a large air leakage."
Todd said:oldspark said:I dont have a cat stove either but I found this thread very interesting, the SS turning green really made me wonder what was happening so I found this little tid bit and not sure if this rings true with your cats but have a look.
"The green color that you see on stainless steel parts is chromium oxide (Cr2O3). It forms when there is too much oxygen and/or moisture in the furnace atmosphere, which is usually caused by a water leak, poor atmosphere tightness, or overly low flow rates of atmosphere gas. A dark green-brown color indicates significant levels of free oxygen inside furnace originated by a large air leakage."
Interesting, I wonder if I'm sucking too much moist oxygen in through my OAK? Sure don't have a water leak.
rdust said:Backwoods Savage said:So is the cat working? Some would immediately say no.
I'm sure it is, the cat doesn't need to glow to work. Mine will glow for hours on some loads and 30 minutes on other loads. If the temps stay up, probe stays active and all the wood gets consumed with a smoke free stack the cat is working.
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