I am.going to call back the guy who wanted $4000 I guess and see if he has any openings. Guess I'm desperate at this point.
Building a new house, chimney or pipe?
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OK, time to throw a Hail Mary . . .
We might get lucky here . . . or we might come away just as disappointed.
I cannot remember if you listed out the town/city you are in . . . but it might be worth contacting the local fire department -- especially if it is a larger fire department and see if any of their members do any work on the side or can recommend a good sweep. I know where I work several of the guys do side work as sweeps.
As I said . . . this may just be a Hail Mary pass that may net you nothing . . . more of the same BS . . . or you may get a guy who will do what you do in a reasonable time frame.
We might get lucky here . . . or we might come away just as disappointed.
I cannot remember if you listed out the town/city you are in . . . but it might be worth contacting the local fire department -- especially if it is a larger fire department and see if any of their members do any work on the side or can recommend a good sweep. I know where I work several of the guys do side work as sweeps.
As I said . . . this may just be a Hail Mary pass that may net you nothing . . . more of the same BS . . . or you may get a guy who will do what you do in a reasonable time frame.
I have some good news! I believe I've finally found someone to do a class A chimney
He's going to come tuesday to give me a final quote, sounds like it'll be around 3300... but, he said that he left oct 10 open just in case there was a last minute big job to do... so he will let me have that day! he knows what he is talking about and isn't telling me a load of garbage. whew!
He's going to come tuesday to give me a final quote, sounds like it'll be around 3300... but, he said that he left oct 10 open just in case there was a last minute big job to do... so he will let me have that day! he knows what he is talking about and isn't telling me a load of garbage. whew!
This a no brainer added to all the previous posts' advice.
We and many architects and contractors have used Selkirk SS chimneys in both new and retro building for decades.
They are durable, meet fire standards, are easy to sweep ( our two are done 1x/year though climbing on the roof ain't fun anymore ! ), and more vital for you, these chimney "systems" can be DIY installed. Selkirk has both through the roof and through the wall chimneys. Did I say that they are considered attractive by some of us ? Some.
And, much cheaper and safer than masonry/tile flues. Much.
The higher end SS chimney systems--they are manufacturer's systems-- also add to the value of any new home.
I like Selkirk because their products have been sold internationally with an excellent rep. Look over their site for info...also called Selkirk Metalbestos.
The only durability problem that we have run into after a couple of decades of hard wood stove burns is that their chimney caps tend to rust out and deteriorate; SS does rust with exposure and burning. It's a $50. replacement, easily done.
Look it over.
We and many architects and contractors have used Selkirk SS chimneys in both new and retro building for decades.
They are durable, meet fire standards, are easy to sweep ( our two are done 1x/year though climbing on the roof ain't fun anymore ! ), and more vital for you, these chimney "systems" can be DIY installed. Selkirk has both through the roof and through the wall chimneys. Did I say that they are considered attractive by some of us ? Some.
And, much cheaper and safer than masonry/tile flues. Much.
The higher end SS chimney systems--they are manufacturer's systems-- also add to the value of any new home.
I like Selkirk because their products have been sold internationally with an excellent rep. Look over their site for info...also called Selkirk Metalbestos.
The only durability problem that we have run into after a couple of decades of hard wood stove burns is that their chimney caps tend to rust out and deteriorate; SS does rust with exposure and burning. It's a $50. replacement, easily done.
Look it over.
Honestly selkirk might be my least favorite chimney system. The fit and finish is pretty bad when compared to ventis or excell. And I think even duravent is better in that respect.
Yes the yare safer without a doubt than masonry and clay but not cheaper at all. And masonry and stainless is just as safe and possibly more durable.
We have seen chimney sections absorb water and rust from the inside out. This is much more common in lower end chimneys like Selkirk with a crimped seam instead of a welded one. We also see them damages from fires and from improper cleaning but that is not the fault of the chimney.
I don't prefer one over the other in general. In some situations masonry makes more sense and prefab does in others. Both are good systems and both can be safe and durable. Everyone needs to figure out what makes the most sense for them.
My main objection with Selkirk is the crimped seam. That is the only chimney we've had that dripped water on the stove. A long bead of silicone along the seam fixed it, but that shouldn't be necessary. Does UltraTemp have a welded seam?
Many many installations using the Selkirk chimneys in northern N.E. There have been problems with other manufactured flue systems.
IF the Selkirk manual instructions are done right, we've never had any leakage in through-the-roof or exterior chimneys.
Most of the Selkirk flues have been up for decades without failures, leaks or other problems. The crimped seams are well done; again, no failures.
BTW: welding SS seams if not done right, is not a safe method in thin walled SS. The machined seams work well.
And the only problem with them: their instruction sheets are not clear; they stink. You have to use some common sense DIY "figuring out" what they want and how the pieces fit and are secured correctly. Few installers read manuals or engineering sheets. Just one opinion from the trenches ( errrr, the roofs).
IF the Selkirk manual instructions are done right, we've never had any leakage in through-the-roof or exterior chimneys.
Most of the Selkirk flues have been up for decades without failures, leaks or other problems. The crimped seams are well done; again, no failures.
BTW: welding SS seams if not done right, is not a safe method in thin walled SS. The machined seams work well.
And the only problem with them: their instruction sheets are not clear; they stink. You have to use some common sense DIY "figuring out" what they want and how the pieces fit and are secured correctly. Few installers read manuals or engineering sheets. Just one opinion from the trenches ( errrr, the roofs).
I have replaced at least a dozed individual sections of selkirk pipe the got water inside them and swelled when that water froze. I have also replaced 4 complete systems that I can think of off hand that had rusted through the outer layer and many of those sections were water logged. I have not had any issues with ventis
Our experiences have been NO problems with 8 installed Selkirk Metalbestos chimneys.
Honestly, none.
Apples to apples, a SS system cost is much less that the total cost of a masonry flue system including the needed foundation, flashing, and then later with aging failures with the tiles, a liner always....anyhow.
Just an opinion.
Honestly, none.
Apples to apples, a SS system cost is much less that the total cost of a masonry flue system including the needed foundation, flashing, and then later with aging failures with the tiles, a liner always....anyhow.
Just an opinion.
With 8 systems over how long? We do at least 20 ventis systems a year. And service hundreds of prefab chimneys. And we see more problems with the crimped seam ones than the welded seam ones.
That is not true in our area. You can have a new block chimney with clay tiles for a 2 story house built for right around $1000 not so with ss
Coal use ?
Boy, $1000. total for a complete masonry chimney INCLUDING foundation and roof work (flashing, etc..) is dirt cheap. No here in northern N.E. where it's more in the $2-3000 range depending on foundation, pitch, height, capping. Gotta add ALL the extras.
Still like Selkirk ( and it is Canadian ! ).
YMMV.
couple of them yes but not all of them.
Yes that is why we don't build them we cant beat that price. And yes it is a complete chimney. Obviously the price will vary depending on access height etc. But for an average 2 story the going price is around $1000 from any of the many Amish masons around. But if you want it done right you should have them leave out the clay and drop a ss liner. And Yes I am fully aware of everything that goes into a chimney I am not leaving anything out.
And that is fine if that is what you like but it absolutely is not the best stuff available. Yes it is safe and it preforms fine but there are higher quality options available.
And btw ventis is American made right here in PA.
I need advice. So, the guy came today to look at our house to see how the class a chimney would go. Because my builder already set the house up to have a chase for a masonry chimney, they might have to put elbows to fit the woodstove to where the pipe would go. And then he said he doesn't think it'll look good having the chimney come through roof on the front of the house, so he would want to put a bend in there to have it go through the back instead... Isn't that going to be harder to clean and make more build up??? Are we better off going with the masonry chimney with a steel liner instead? I think it'll be more expensive to do it that way. But at least the whole thing would be straight?
Some pics may help us understand the issues. This is why you should have had this worked out a long time ago. I have been on similar projects and it is really frustrating to come in and try to make things work half way through.
I didn't know about the steel chimneys u til not long ago.. or I would have planned it sooner
My opinion would be to have a straight chimney. Whether that be masonry on SS. I personally don't dislike the look of SS chimney on a roof but it may not look right with your particular style of home. Gosh I like the look of anything to do with wood burning.
I would never say like the look but it is not that bad if it is just coming out of the roof. But if it bothers someone it is not hard to build a chase for it.
I guess I would have to see a photo of the house with the roof line and point where the chimney exits the roof to voice an opinion . . . depending on the exit and roof line I could see how it might look odd -- especially if it had to stick out a lot due to any chimney height requirements.
It is a cape cod style house, so it'll be up at the very top by the ridge vent,not far from it
electrathon
Minister of Fire
You can build a wooden "chimney" on the roof as a raceway for the metal chimney. Looks nice and it will act as a support for the metal pipe.
If the chimney came out halfway up on the roof on the front I might think it would be strange looking . . . and perhaps a bit odd if there are dormers on the front . . . but if it's right up near the ridge I suspect it would look fine . . . plain Class A or a wooden chase.
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