Yep temps like these usually call for two stoves to keep the home toasty.-4 the other night and my two stoves had my wife and mother in law sleeping on top of their covers.
Heh. At -15 last night, I slept on the floor in front of the stove. I like a cold bedroom, but it was really nice having the heat, and when the burn cycle was winding down and the temps dropped, it woke me up so I could reload and stop the $$-burner in the basement from coming on.Yep temps like these usually call for two stoves to keep the home toasty.-4 the other night and my two stoves had my wife and mother in law sleeping on top of their covers.
Your house has an almost immeasurably small effect on stove-top temperature. There is something wrong with your rig or your technique, if a loaded Firelight can't be kept well above 300F just 3 hours after loading. My old Firelight 12 has less firebox space than your Firelight 600, and I can hold 500F for probably twice that long. I can usually hold 300F for 11 hours or more, and I'm only burning Walnut, since my Oak is not yet seasoned. One of my Firelights is heating 4000 sq.ft. of 1770's construction, the other is heating 1800 sq.ft. of 1890's and 1990's additions.I can hit 600/650 with no problem. On a reload, the side loading door stays cracked open about five minutes or so. The air control stays full open for up to twenty minutes, then half way for another twenty. After that it's fully closed or slightly cracked. In three hours or so stove top temp has dropped down close to 300 deg. This old farmhouse is almost 100 years old and over 3000 sq. ft. two story. new windows and insulation/vinyl siding installed in mid 1980's but still drafty. I think the F600 is doing well. It just isn't up to all the cold air sucking the heat away.
A bold statement. Got direct evidence, or just the usual supposition? Perhaps you should reserve unsupported opinions like this for the Ash Can.
To the OP, all you can do is keep your stove top near the max allowable temp, for as much of the day as you can. This means watching it, and adjusting your air control throughout the burn cycle. At some point, your losses will outstrip the BTU/hr capacity of your stove, and you'll have to kick on the boiler. If just an occasional occurrence, then rest assured you have chosen the proper stove.
I would not run the stove with the cat bypassed. You should be able to reach your max allowable stovetop temp with dry wood and the cat engaged. If not, your wood is wet, or your draft is exceedingly poor. Leaving the stove in bypass just sends more heat up the chimney and increases likelihood of overfire.
Your house has an almost immeasurably small effect on stove-top temperature. There is something wrong with your rig or your technique, if a loaded Firelight can't be kept well above 300F just 3 hours after loading. My old Firelight 12 has less firebox space than your Firelight 600, and I can hold 500F for probably twice that long. I can usually hold 300F for 11 hours or more, and I'm only burning Walnut, since my Oak is not yet seasoned. One of my Firelights is heating 4000 sq.ft. of 1770's construction, the other is heating 1800 sq.ft. of 1890's and 1990's additions.
Man I don't know how you survive in Vermont with just the Heritage and those temps.Both my stoves are much larger than yours and that's what it takes to stay toasty in my neck of the woods in Eastern Ma.A hearthstone "one" or Equinox is what I'd have to have if I was in Vermont.My "One" produces so much heat that the cellar is like a sauna.It's a heck of a machine.There'll be no sleeping on the floor in front of this stove.It'll turn you into a puddle.Heh. At -15 last night, I slept on the floor in front of the stove. I like a cold bedroom, but it was really nice having the heat, and when the burn cycle was winding down and the temps dropped, it woke me up so I could reload and stop the $$-burner in the basement from coming on.
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