Bought a house with INOP heatilator. What direction should I go?

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Look on the inside of the door frame for a UL or mfg tag.
 
The manual for this fireplace is online. On line 13 of the Safety Rules it reads:
13. DO NOT use a fireplace insert or any other products not specified herein by the manufacturer for use with this fireplace.
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/809651/Intertherm-Bm36hc.html?page=20#manual
It looks like the only options are to keep it as it, or install a rear-vented stove in front of the fireplace and connect it to a full liner up the chimney or to replace the fireplace with a modern EPA ZC fireplace.
 
The manual for this fireplace is online. On line 13 of the Safety Rules it reads:
13. DO NOT use a fireplace insert or any other products not specified herein by the manufacturer for use with this fireplace.
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/809651/Intertherm-Bm36hc.html?page=20#manual
It looks like the only options are to keep it as it, or install a rear-vented stove in front of the fireplace and connect it to a full liner up the chimney or to replace the fireplace with a modern EPA ZC fireplace.

But that is if I keep the heatilator in place right? I should be able to rip this unit out and instal another unit I would think?
 
I've only burned hardwood at my parents. I know the key to low or no creosote is keeping your stack temp up! If you get too big of a system you most likely won't use it to its fullest potential so you might create creosote that way.

I've been looking on Craigslist and see a hearthstone Clydesdale for $450. It says the upper liner needs replacing for around $150. The add says it heats 2000 sq ft. Any thoughts on this insert?

Actually the key to low creosote is . . . a) burn well seasoned wood, b) burn at the right temp (too cold = creosote builds up due to moisture, too hot = creosote in the chimney can ignite) and c) keep an eye on the chimney and sweep when needed.
 
Actually the key to low creosote is . . . a) burn well seasoned wood, b) burn at the right temp (too cold = creosote builds up due to moisture, too hot = creosote in the chimney can ignite) and c) keep an eye on the chimney and sweep when needed.
If I'm burning year old seasoned hard wood and my flue temps Are up I should have minimal creosote build up like I meant previously.
 
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But that is if I keep the heatilator in place right? I should be able to rip this unit out and instal another unit I would think?
Yes as noted in the second part of that posting there are a couple options. Tearing it out and replacing is one option.
 
if the heatilator was installed as the house was built you will likely find that your ceiling joists and roof rafters line up in such a way that no bends or elbows will be required in your modern stove pipe.

Ripping out my heatilator was the best thing I ever did to this house.
 
if the heatilator was installed as the house was built you will likely find that your ceiling joists and roof rafters line up in such a way that no bends or elbows will be required in your modern stove pipe.



Ripping out my heatilator was the best thing I ever did to this house.

Yeah the house basically is set up like you describe! I have no real chimney as it is all sided on the outside but my foundation was poured to support the heatilator system! It's really weird to me but if it works then I'm ok with it!
 
I have no real chimney as it is all sided on the outside

Mmmm. You are far enough into the Arctic I encourage you to look at the rest of your house framing to see if you can install a modern stove somewhere sensible on the floor plan - and keep the stove pipe inside the insulation envelope as long as possible.

It is (obviously) possible to run a pipe up the outside wall of a house - but the colder the climate the less satisfactory this option is. You are going to be 'wasting' a bunch of BTUs pumping water vapor up and out an ideal chimney anyway. If the chimney is on the outside of an exterior wall you are going to be wasting even more BTUs getting your pipe hot enough to keep water as a vapor and then pump the water vapor.... Maybe not such a big deal somehwere mild like Georgia or Arkansas, not a great first option in Northern Vermont I think.

Likely the heatilator pipe won't do for a modern stove anyway. Are there any candidate locations on the floor plan that leave your Heatilator intact so your demolition budget drops to zero?
 
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