Block Off Plate & Liner Question

[maple1]

And that is typical of most direct connect installations. It is not right but it is how most are done. A slammer has nothing at all just an insert sitting in the fireplace. No pipe at all.

Maybe I just need an official slammer definition.

I was thinking that even using a short stub would still make it a slammer if no direct connection. And also didn't think just stuffed insulation would make it direct. Definitely sounds hacky if not slammy.

 

[bholler]

Maybe I just need an official slammer definition.

I was thinking that even using a short stub would still make it a slammer if no direct connection. And also didn't think just stuffed insulation would make it direct. Definitely sounds hacky if not slammy.

As i said a slammer is just an insert slid into a fireplace no pipe or anything.

 

[gstowe]

Really curious how this goes. And what is found when stuff gets pulled out to do the liner install.

Sounds like a slammer install if I read right?

Direct connect installation example
View attachment 228668

OK ... again, thanks for the comments. My description was obviously in layman's terms but what I had looks like the direct connect diagram, except I had no block off plate. So, knowing a bit of thermodynamics, I can only imagine that I had a bunch of heat loss up the chimney ... meanwhile thankful that I didn't have a chimney catastrophe. Glad I only had to endure this for one heating season.

My block off plate is done but not yet installed. I'm ordering the liner kit tomorrow so I'm almost ready to get this fixed right for the long term.

Next question though: I'm left with what I'm calling the "damper bracket", which is a metal lintel mortared in around the perimeter. I've got about a 4.5" clearance through there. I called Rockford Chimney Supply - very helpful - and they said I could ovalize the liner through that area. I'm OK with that, but I'm wondering if the optimum solution is to work for more clearance. Should I go to the effort with grinder to crop out some of the lintel, and then cold chisel my way through some brick & mortar? Or is this wasted effort if it's OK to slightly compress the liner?

 

[bholler]

OK ... again, thanks for the comments. My description was obviously in layman's terms but what I had looks like the direct connect diagram, except I had no block off plate. So, knowing a bit of thermodynamics, I can only imagine that I had a bunch of heat loss up the chimney ... meanwhile thankful that I didn't have a chimney catastrophe. Glad I only had to endure this for one heating season.

My block off plate is done but not yet installed. I'm ordering the liner kit tomorrow so I'm almost ready to get this fixed right for the long term.

Next question though: I'm left with what I'm calling the "damper bracket", which is a metal lintel mortared in around the perimeter. I've got about a 4.5" clearance through there. I called Rockford Chimney Supply - very helpful - and they said I could ovalize the liner through that area. I'm OK with that, but I'm wondering if the optimum solution is to work for more clearance. Should I go to the effort with grinder to crop out some of the lintel, and then cold chisel my way through some brick & mortar? Or is this wasted effort if it's OK to slightly compress the liner?

Do not ovalize the liner through the damper it hurts draft it weakens the liner and it makes it a pita to clean. Do it right and make room.

 

[gstowe]

'Nuff said. Thanks bholler.

Do not ovalize the liner through the damper it hurts draft it weakens the liner and it makes it a pita to clean. Do it right and make room.

 

[gstowe]

Do not ovalize the liner through the damper it hurts draft it weakens the liner and it makes it a pita to clean. Do it right and make room.

Cropped it out today; about 30 mins of grinder work - not as bad a job as I thought. There'll be a bit of a bend as it comes through - maybe 20 degrees or so - but no need to ovalize. I'm taking pics & will post in case anyone else will have to tackle something similar. Thanks again.

 

[bholler]

Cropped it out today; about 30 mins of grinder work - not as bad a job as I thought. There'll be a bit of a bend as it comes through - maybe 20 degrees or so - but no need to ovalize. I'm taking pics & will post in case anyone else will have to tackle something similar. Thanks again.

Yeah most of the time it isnt too hard.

 

[gstowe]

One problem solved, but then another question:

I don't want to overengineer this block-off plate but I can't quite figure out how to make it easy for future sweeping, as I will need to sweep from the bottom (I'm not young anymore, steep pitch to access the chimney from above and will need a boom-lift to install the liner ... I'm only going up there once.)

I've seen the pics of other block-off plates, and the one I've made (in one piece) looks like all the others. What I was thinking of doing was putting a male-to-male liner coupler through the block off plate, then permanently attach the liner to chimney-side collar, insulate, lift block off plate into final position, tapcon & seal. That would leave me a male end extending down from the block off plate ... so far so good. Everything from block-off plate upward would be fixed in place. My thought was that I could then attach a separate 14" of liner from block-off plate to insert. But the liner is relatively rigid, correct? I'm looking for a way to be able to remove that 14" piece for easier cleaning access. Is this even doable? Should I just bring the liner straight through the block off plate - no coupling - and connect direct to top of stove? Seems that doing that will require complete removal of insert for sweeping, which is OK but I'm looking on how to NOT do that. Ideas?

I'm obviously not the first guy to do this ... please instruct me where I may be going astray.

 

[begreen]

Hopefully there is no need to disturb the block off plate or liner connection. Which Regency insert? Can the liner be swept easily from bottom up with the baffle removal using a sooteater?

 

[gstowe]

Begreen - this is a Regency I2400 insert. I'm planning on using a sooteater ... just looking to ensure and maximize access. When I pull the trim plate away from the insert there's about 14" vertical clearance between stove collar to bottom of block off plate. If I'm understanding your question correctly, I'm pretty sure the liner will have to be removed from the stove for cleaning, and knowing that the liner's corrugations don't collapse or shorten, I'm trying figure how to remove a 14" section for cleaning, or if that's even possible given the liner's rigidity.

 

[gstowe]

Hopefully there is no need to disturb the block off plate or liner connection. Which Regency insert? Can the liner be swept easily from bottom up with the baffle removal using a sooteater?

OK ... just did a little homework on baffle removal. I see there's a post on here for doing that. I think I see what you're recommending and that looks promising. Thanks!

 

[begreen]

Yes, I'd just remove the baffle and clean and not disturb the liner.

 

[gstowe]

Yes, I'd just remove the baffle and clean and not disturb the liner.

Yep, just went to the stove, the baffle slides over easily, and that should be enough room for the sooteater. So no need for over-engineering ... I'm just going with no breaks in the liner; straight through the block off plate & connect to top of stove. Thanks again.