BlazeKing Princess Prices

[R'Lee]

The efficiency factor is separate and independent from the BTU rating (s).

 

[R'Lee]

Off Topic (* sorry, having "smartphone" problems.)

 

[R'Lee]

Off Topic however... whatever you get, without enough fuel for the rated efficiency; its irrelevant:
Went to our (MI) pharmacy today for the routine ”better life via pharmaceuticals” (ha) and he was telling me about this Research Professor he knows:

Apparently, this fellow has been doing correlation studies between local walnut shell thicknesses and subsequent weather trends. Based upon his predictions (and he claims he has over 40 yrs. worth of data and, he hasn’t been wrong yet); this winter will be as bad or worse than last.
I do remember picking last year’s walnuts and having sincere difficulty in cracking them… Maybe there is something to this theory after all???
Geez, now I have ANOTHER REASON to keep cutting wood.

 

[R'Lee]

multi-post... need to reboot this stupid phone... drat.

 

[bholler]

Ok there is no epa standard for testing btu output just emissions and efficiency. It is up to the manufacturers to test for btu output. Most companies test at peak output. Bk (partly due to their thermostat) test btu output over a given time period and the list outputs at different time intervals. Yes regency may have a much larger peak output but if you want 10 hr burn time you will be getting nowhere near that most of the time. Btus also depend greatly on the type and condition of wood you are using. With an insert on one end of the house and a closed off floor plan you may have trouble heating the whole place regardless of btu output. You need to worry more about how to distribute heat and less about the btu ratings which generally don't mean a whole lot.

 

[derbydude]

Ok there is no epa standard for testing btu output just emissions and efficiency. It is up to the manufacturers to test for btu output. Most companies test at peak output. Bk (partly due to their thermostat) test btu output over a given time period and the list outputs at different time intervals. Yes regency may have a much larger peak output but if you want 10 hr burn time you will be getting nowhere near that most of the time. Btus also depend greatly on the type and condition of wood you are using. With an insert on one end of the house and a closed off floor plan you may have trouble heating the whole place regardless of btu output. You need to worry more about how to distribute heat and less about the btu ratings which generally don't mean a whole lot.

I understand I may not be able to heat the whole 2000sft - I am hoping it can atleast heat one of my zones completely, and spillover enough into the other zone - cutting my oil bill by over half. I read couple of earlier posts about people with BK Princess insert complaining its behaving like a space heater and heat not powerful enough to go far. Thats why I am concerned.
I am also checking the Regency CI2600 - which is also catalytic with 14hrs duration - max 77000BTU, although I dont know what the sustained BTU or what the BTU for long burns is.

 

[bholler]

I am sure you will be able to heat allot of your house the new regency hybrids are tested the same way the old regencies were. Don't get me wrong i sell regencies and i think they are good stoves it is just that most stove manufacturers btu ratings are a joke.

 

[R'Lee]

I have used just about every (* edit; "type of") Woodburner made with the exception of the boiler type smoke dragons. When I built the new home in 2003; I elected to go back to propane. Huge mistake I ended up researching what my needs were; *long burns, high efficiency & the ability to have heat during our routine power outages. I ended up where and with what I have now. I ended up looking at the Alaska forums and, made my decision. The unit was put in on 3/13 and I burned continuously 24/7 for the next 6 wks. Total seasoned hardwood consumed was a 1/2 facecord. No it wasn't subzero but, it was cold, damp & mid 20's for at least half of that. My home is 1500 Sq ft, well insulated, and the burner is centrally located. My installers thought I went too big but, I wanted a guaranteed burn and enough heat should the situation call for it. I didn't drop any brand names intentionally because your own research will be enlightening. The btu thing... When you move air, you automatically cool it. Radiant heat requires fewer btu's to get the same effect. The zone heating routine actually works for me (us)... we like our bedrooms cool!

 

[R'Lee]

Caveat: with SINCERE RESPECT to this forum of which at the time, I didn't know it existed. I simply choose the Alaska forums only because the wx here was very similar.