Blaze King Sirroco 30 Overfires when thermostate is above med/high.

[Chamel]

Hi everyone. I hope someone can help me here. I just bought a sirocco 30 this year and have been trying to learn how to use it the past few weeks. It's awesome getting 24 hour burns with even heat. But I have a few problems. I know your supposed to burn your fuel on high for 20 or 30 minutes to condition/get rid moisture in the wood and to clean the stove. My only problem is every time I burn the thermostat past medium the stove takes of in a hurry whether the cat is engaged or not. I can't seem to burn very long on high or even at medium without the stove climbing to 700. I'm getting worried because I need to burn the creosote off in the stove but I can't turn it on high without it going nuclear. Is my thermostat screwy? Should I try keeping the thermostat lower before loading wood? After curing the paint I realized there is a smoke smell coming from the left hing side of the door. My wood also tends to burn first on the right and then to the left to the stove. Shouldn't it burn from the middle outwards? The left side of the stove seems to be building up more creosote than the other side too. I spent some time chipping some of it off but the creosote on the sides is really stuck on and I can barley see through the window. I did the dollar bill test and tightened the door with no improvement. I really want this stove to work out. Is all this normal? Any suggestions?
16 feet double wall chimney with two 45's at the ceiling.
Second story installation
wood between 14 to 17% moisture.

I'm really sorry for the long post. I just want to make sure I don't ruin it and its operating properly. I'm about to give up on wood burning if this stove doesn't work out. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Poindexter]

1. creosote inside the firebox isnt a problem. the cat will keep your chimney much much cleaner than that.

2. do your splits measure 14-17% on the outside or inside?

3. i suggest removing your add-on thermometer for at least two cords. the brand new combustor is going to be hyperactive for a while, evem climbing above the active zone on the bk supplied thermometer.

You've got enough cresote in the box and on the glass that i doubt your cord wood measures 14% all the way through.

 

[blueguy]

Move your stove top thermometer off the top of the cat - that is why it's reading so high. I have mine over to the right side of the stove top and it relays a more accurate temperature.

Judging by the amount of creosote on the glass, your stove isn't running away. At 700* stove top temps, your glass would be clean.

I had the same smoke problem at lower stat settings, and it's now gone. I adjusted my flue configuration slightly and redid my door gasket. By the looks of your pics, the door gasket joint is midway between the hinges? If so, you might find that reconfiguring it so the joint is at the bottom may help out. Also, when the stove is cold, check the door glass to ensure it doesn't move.

 

[Highbeam]

Yes, stove top thermometers on a BK cat stove are really a marginal idea. It's not like a non-cat stove where the fire and smoke heat the whole stove top. Instead, you have a 1000 -1800 degree chunk of lava in just one spot under the stove top that stays that same temperature whether the stat is on high or low. Meaning the stove top temperature right above the cat is bogus, and anywhere else on the stove is only slightly less bogus.

Your flue height does not meet minimum specification. The bends subtract height and since you only had 16 to start, you are now under spec of 15. That may contribute to your smoke smell but at higher stat settings you shouldn't notice any drawbacks.

Wood may or may not be dry. I measure 14% and my stove looks like that inside if the weather is warm and the stat spends most of its time nearly closed. I know the 30 series boxes keep cleaner glass so maybe you do have a problem there.

So your 20-30 minute high burn has not been resulting in overfire. Or at least you don't have enough information to know that. If your door gasket passes the dollar bill test then let it rip per the manual AFTER closing the bypass.

 

[Chamel]

Yes the wood was split prior. I rechecked it's all around 14-17% moisture. Yeah not 14% all the way through. Definitely higher in the middle of the splits. 17% in the middle of the larger splits. Nothing above that though. It's that ok? In the manual it says anything below 20%. I've been burning mostly on med/low and I think that's why it's building up. Along with not turning it on high for 30 minutes. My place is quite small so it doesn't take much to heat it. It was 10 degrees the other morning and the stove keep the place at a even 75ish on med/low for over 24 hours. I was too afraid to turn it up when I saw the stove top temps climbing beyond 700 above the cat. I haven't seen the BK cat thermometer go much past the 12oclock position. So I guess I really need to burn it on high. I'm so worried because my last tube stove would take off in a hurry. I would have to start shutting down around 300. I could never leave the primary air on anything but low without it going nuclear. That stove ended up with a cracked weld. I felt that my draft was too strong at times. But it would seem unlikely since it's a shorter flue. Although when the stove is cold, I can feel air moving up the flue. I'll try moving the stove top thermometer to the side of the stove top.

Might get a new gasket to see if it helps with the smoke smell. it's definitely coming from the door hinge side. I suspect it's the corner or where the two end of the ropes meet. Yes they meet about halfway between the hinges. I'll try putting the seam towards the bottom middle if I decide to change it. Checked the glass. No movement.

1.Blueguy what temps do you regularly see on your stove top thermometer when its placed there?

2.The few times I turned the BK thermostat on high or medium with the cat engaged there is still a whole lot of flame activity in the firebox. Almost as much as when the bypass is opened. Is that normal for you guys? Also when the manual says to burn it on high for thirty minutes, that time starts when the bypass is closed and the cat is engaged correct? Will burning on high get rid of most of the creosote? I have glazing on the side walls of the stove.

3. About the door latch. I already tightened it one full turn before I fired it. I rechecked and the only loose spots I found is the right upper corner and below the door latch. I can pull the dollar bill out without tearing it in these places. It does take some effort though. Should I tighten it more? I'm seeing metal burs on the latch area right now. (See pics) Is that ok?

Thanks again for everyone's help. I've learned so much from this forum.

 

[Woody Stover]

I was too afraid to turn it up when I saw the stove top temps climbing beyond 700 above the cat. I haven't seen the BK cat thermometer go much past the 12oclock position. So I guess I really need to burn it on high. I'm so worried because my last tube stove would take off in a hurry. I would have to start shutting down around 300. I could never leave the primary air on anything but low without it going nuclear.

I don't think you have anything to worry about, although I never saw anything close to 700 on my cat stove top, even with a new cat. I haven't run a DuraFoil cat yet, though.
That's one of the good things about a cat stove; It won't take off on you. You can cut the air any time and the burn rate will slow down. The BK thermostat should make it even less likely to take off on you.

Might get a new gasket to see if it helps with the smoke smell. it's definitely coming from the door hinge side. I suspect it's the corner or where the two end of the ropes meet. Yes they meet about halfway between the hinges. I'll try putting the seam towards the bottom middle if I decide to change it. Checked the glass. No movement.

If you read up on the BKs, some folks seem to have a problem with this smoke smell, and mixed results trying to fix it.

The few times I turned the BK thermostat on high or medium with the cat engaged there is still a whole lot of flame activity in the firebox. Almost as much as when the bypass is opened. Is that normal for you guys?

I don't have a BK but yeah, I can have flames in the box with the bypass open or closed.About the door latch. I already tightened it one full turn before I fired it. I rechecked and the only loose spots I found is the right upper corner and below the door latch. I can pull the dollar bill out without tearing it in these places. It does take some effort though. Should I tighten it more? I'm seeing metal burs on the latch area right now. (See pics) Is that ok?

As long as the bill doesn't pull out easily anywhere, that should be good enough. And I don't think the burrs are anything to worry about; One of those two pieces is probably going to be softer than the other, and that's where some wear will occur. Over a period of years, you may have to replace that part eventually.

 

[Chamel]

I was easily seeing above 700 on low/med setting by the cat and it kept climbing. Maybe I should start with a smaller hot fire? There was a huge amount of flame activity for me the few times I had it on high.

Thanks, I'll check out those threads about the smoke smell.

 

[Highbeam]

Yes the wood was split prior. I rechecked it's all around 14-17% moisture. Yeah not 14% all the way through. Definitely higher in the middle of the splits. 17% in the middle of the larger splits. Nothing above that though. It's that ok? In the manual it says anything below 20%. I've been burning mostly on med/low and I think that's why it's building up. Along with not turning it on high for 30 minutes. My place is quite small so it doesn't take much to heat it. It was 10 degrees the other morning and the stove keep the place at a even 75ish on med/low for over 24 hours. I was too afraid to turn it up when I saw the stove top temps climbing beyond 700 above the cat. I haven't seen the BK cat thermometer go much past the 12oclock position. So I guess I really need to burn it on high. I'm so worried because my last tube stove would take off in a hurry. I would have to start shutting down around 300. I could never leave the primary air on anything but low without it going nuclear. That stove ended up with a cracked weld. I felt that my draft was too strong at times. But it would seem unlikely since it's a shorter flue. Although when the stove is cold, I can feel air moving up the flue. I'll try moving the stove top thermometer to the side of the stove top.

Might get a new gasket to see if it helps with the smoke smell. it's definitely coming from the door hinge side. I suspect it's the corner or where the two end of the ropes meet. Yes they meet about halfway between the hinges. I'll try putting the seam towards the bottom middle if I decide to change it. Checked the glass. No movement.

1.Blueguy what temps do you regularly see on your stove top thermometer when its placed there?

2.The few times I turned the BK thermostat on high or medium with the cat engaged there is still a whole lot of flame activity in the firebox. Almost as much as when the bypass is opened. Is that normal for you guys? Also when the manual says to burn it on high for thirty minutes, that time starts when the bypass is closed and the cat is engaged correct? Will burning on high get rid of most of the creosote? I have glazing on the side walls of the stove.

3. About the door latch. I already tightened it one full turn before I fired it. I rechecked and the only loose spots I found is the right upper corner and below the door latch. I can pull the dollar bill out without tearing it in these places. It does take some effort though. Should I tighten it more? I'm seeing metal burs on the latch area right now. (See pics) Is that ok?

Thanks again for everyone's help. I've learned so much from this forum.

17% wood is great. That's actually very good.

When you are doing the "20-30 minutes" on high, that is started at cat engagement and during that time you should expect a firebox full of fire. At least as big as when the bypass is open. That high fire is what is cooking the gunk out of the box. I gotta say, 20 minutes is max for me and complies with the manual's instructions. This will convert some or all of the tarry firebox deposits to something flakier and dry. I have found that full burns on medium really clean her out better.

The door latch is a wear item. The fact that your is wearing indicates that your door gasket is pretty tight still. When mine wears out I will upgrade to your new style latch instead of the old school bent rod latch. I just put one more turn on my latch last night. The old latches use a welded in nut inside the stove that requires the user to tighten or loosen the latch mechanism by one full turn.

There are smoke leaks and then there is the smell of smoke. The BKs get a lot of creo on the glass and that creo and/or the smell of it can leach through the gasket and stink. Not a smoke leak but a stink leak. I smell the creo on the door latch side too.

 

[Niko]

As far as the door latch and the door make sure they are corect, meaning they are meant for each other. My latch broke and my dealer sent me a new style latch like the one in yoir picture and i used it for whole year without realizing it was wrong for my stove. Well not wrong a but a new latch with a old door made a air leak. The new style was making my whole door lift a lil bit when fully close and was causing a nice air leak. But the funy part was sometimes it closed tight and sometimes it closed not so perfect.

I just put the older style latch on and am running her so well see how she works.

If yoir stove is under 3 years old i doubt u need a new door gasket.

 

[Highbeam]

As far as the door latch and the door make sure they are corect, meaning they are meant for each other. My latch broke and my dealer sent me a new style latch like the one in yoir picture and i used it for whole year without realizing it was wrong for my stove. Well not wrong a but a new latch with a old door made a air leak. The new style was making my whole door lift a lil bit when fully close and was causing a nice air leak. But the funy part was sometimes it closed tight and sometimes it closed not so perfect.

I just put the older style latch on and am running her so well see how she works.

If yoir stove is under 3 years old i doubt u need a new door gasket.

My stove needed a new gasket after three years. Adjustment all bottomed out and started to fail the dollar bill test. It probably depends on how often the stove was opened or something.

I have been told that the new and old style latches are interchangeable and planned to upgrade someday to the new style. Even on my old style latch, the door sometimes shifts up a little when I bottom out the latch. I expect that to happen when looking at the design.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Lots of variables here. Are you putting a full load of wood on a bed of hot coals left from the previous cycle or burning a partial in a cold stove? Makes a big difference in how fast it takes off, how well it drafts early in the burn, etc. Flames in the beginning of a cycle with the tstat up are common. Not saying it cant happen but you shouldn't see caked creosote like that with dry wood. You can get away with less than perfect wood but you need to let it burn a little longer before you close the bypass. In my experience, you should usually see secondaries in the box when you close the bypass if your timing is right on a full load. No secondaries usually means too early.

Disclaimer - I typically light one fire a year that goes for 7 months and load the stove full every time. i.e. I have little to no experience with a cold or partially filled firebox.

 

[tarzan]

My stove needed a new gasket after a couple months of use. I used the full amount of adjustment before I even lit the stove just to have a fair amount of resistance on the dollar bill test.

 

[Highbeam]

My stove needed a new gasket after a couple months of use. I used the full amount of adjustment before I even lit the stove just to have a fair amount of resistance on the dollar bill test.

Plus I think I did a better job with the new BK gasket than the job on my new stove. There is a lot of technique involved with the amount of stretch, not twisting the rope, and sufficient silicone. The new gasket was like 30$. If I get three years out of it then I'll be happy.

 

[Chamel]

Well I tried starting another fire. I didn't do a full load for fear of it going out of control. Kindling 3 medium pieces and then 3 larger pieces. Moved the stove top thermometer to the right side of the stove. I got to about 20 minutes with the bypassed closed and the cat engaged before the fire alarms went off. Stove top on the right side of stove was a little over 500. Flue was at 700. The cat was a little past 12oclock. I can't seem to get the cat much past that temp. I'm sure the temperatures by the cat were crazy hot. Can't tell if the fire alarms went off because of the hot metal of the stove or paint curing further. But there is a smell in here. I hope it didn't break it. What temps do you guys get on high? After the fire alarms went off I immediately turned the thermostat down to medium. Now the temps are holding steady. Around 400 on the flue, 12oclock on the cat, 400 on the stove top on the right of stove, and 600 in front of the cat. Does this sound like I have too much of a draft? I don't think I could ever leave the stove on high without being there.

I gotta say, 20 minutes is max for me and complies with the manual's instructions. I have found that full burns on medium really clean her out better.

Thanks highbeam I'm gonna try burning it for the rest of the night on medium hoping to clean it out.

There are smoke leaks and then there is the smell of smoke. Not a smoke leak but a stink leak. I smell the creo on the door latch side too.

Thanks, good to know. I don't see any visible smoke. I just smell it by the left of the stove when checking the temps. So the rope is filtering the smoke but the smell it permeates through. Makes sense.

Not saying it cant happen but you shouldn't see caked creosote like that with dry wood. You can get away with less than perfect wood but you need to let it burn a little longer before you close the bypass. In my experience, you should usually see secondaries in the box when you close the bypass if your timing is right on a full load. No secondaries usually means too early.

I haven't loaded on a full bed on coals yet. Too scared on how fast it might take off. Maybe my moisture meter is off. But I have been burning on low for over a week. I haven't burned on high much at all because I was scared when the stove top temps climbed so high. I did see some secondaries today after burning on high. That's good to know. Thanks.

 

[Niko]

My stove needed a new gasket after three years. Adjustment all bottomed out and started to fail the dollar bill test. It probably depends on how often the stove was opened or something.

I have been told that the new and old style latches are interchangeable and planned to upgrade someday to the new style. Even on my old style latch, the door sometimes shifts up a little when I bottom out the latch. I expect that to happen when looking at the design.

not sure about that. I called BK myself and was told that depending on your door and the stove year it was made the old hinge one would be better. at least I can see for myself when i close the same door with then older style hinge vs the new style. that the door closes flush and does not move up at all. I read people used thin washers to adjust for the difference but I did not mess with that at all. Order a new hinge and try it out and let us know..

 

[Highbeam]

Kindling 3 medium pieces and then 3 larger pieces. Moved the stove top thermometer to the right side of the stove. I got to about 20 minutes with the bypassed closed and the cat engaged before the fire alarms went off. Stove top on the right side of stove was a little over 500. Flue was at 700. The cat was a little past 12oclock. I can't seem to get the cat much past that temp.

Not sure why you're using such small loads of wood. I use 6 pieces of kindling about an inch across and then up to 12 full size splits. Load to the roof. The only thing criss crossed is the kindling for startup.

During the 20-30 minute warm up after cat engagement my internal flue temps measured with a probe meter climb as high as 800 and the cat meter runs all the way to the top of the active range. The flue temps drop to 400-500 after I set the stove for low cruise.

Not sure why you can't get your cat temps up higher but the cat is active and that's what matters. It's probably a fuel quality issue but you've got to burn what you've got.