Blaze King Sirocco 25 insert

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Ok, I see what you are saying! There is a steel ledge that the set screw is hitting at position 6 and 3. It seems it’s this way from factory. But at 3, it doesn’t seem to completely close the baffle. Pretty close, but not perfectly flat.

I would get ahold of @BKVP and verify what is going on. I think it was mellow that had a similar problem with his too. But I would verify that with him before doing anything.


Lopi Rockport
Blaze King Ashford 25
 
I would get ahold of @BKVP and verify what is going on. I think it was mellow that had a similar problem with his too. But I would verify that with him before doing anything.


Lopi Rockport
Blaze King Ashford 25
Yes, I recal Mellow’s post. I will reach out to @BKVP

I am new to this forum so I am trying to figure everything out. I will say one thing, this stove puts out serious heat. I’m very uncomfortable in my living room lol.... and yet so pleased
 
Turn the knob until the blade is open and it stops. The white line on the knob should at that point be pointing at the widest part of the swoosh. If it is not, leave the knob where it is, Insert a 5/16” Allen wrench into the set screw on the knob. Loosen the screw, turn the knob clockwise until the white line is then pointing at the widest part of the swoosh. Tighten the set screw as tight as you can. This will correct orientation of the knob to actual thermostat calibration.

Or call the dealer to make this change if need be....

Thank you.
 
Turn the knob until the blade is open and it stops. The white line on the knob should at that point be pointing at the widest part of the swoosh. If it is not, leave the knob where it is, Insert a 5/16” Allen wrench into the set screw on the knob. Loosen the screw, turn the knob clockwise until the white line is then pointing at the widest part of the swoosh. Tighten the set screw as tight as you can. This will correct orientation of the knob to actual thermostat calibration.

Or call the dealer to make this change if need be....

Thank you.
The knob orientation is correct, 6 o’clock for wide open. When closing it down, the knob stops at 3 o’clock.... halfway to the thinnest part of the white line. That was the confusion.

We are having odd weather here in Ohio, around 45 last night. I loaded the stove with 6 splits at 10:30 last night and woke up to a hot stove still pumping out heat at 7:30. It was 76 degrees in my home, about 10 degrees higher than I generally keep it in the winter lol. First night and a 9 hour burn.... can’t really complain. We will see how it does when the temps dip back down in a week or so.
 
All the videos of my post are gone since that stupid video host closed, if you need any pictures let me know. This was an issue with early units, unless this thing was sitting in a warehouse for a couple years it shouldn't have the same problem.
This unit was a floor model. I’m unsure how long it sat there. If you could dig up the videos or photos, I would greatly appreciate it. I want to make sure this thing is running to the best of its ability.
 
@mellow i am also concerned about my install, as the installers didn’t put the 24” adapter/liner on my stove. Is this an issue? Again, being a floor model, I’m curious if they just forgot the piece in their shop.

I also noticed you said there was a set screw that was in there that shouldn’t be. Was that set screw stopping your knob around 2 o’clock? This is probably what is keeping my knob from going beyond 3 o’clock, keeping the door open.
 
@mellow i am also concerned about my install, as the installers didn’t put the 24” adapter/liner on my stove. Is this an issue? Again, being a floor model, I’m curious if they just forgot the piece in their shop.

I also noticed you said there was a set screw that was in there that shouldn’t be. Was that set screw stopping your knob around 2 o’clock? This is probably what is keeping my knob from going beyond 3 o’clock, keeping the door open.

What is the serial number of the unit? Is it 16.1616 or higher? Or is it lower than that?

[Hearth.com] Blaze King Sirocco 25 insert

It’s on a plate that slides out in the middle.

From what I understand that the newer ones do not use the extension because of an added flame shield in the bypass opening and possibly other changes.

If it is an older one BKVP has said and so does the manual that it must be used are you sure they didn’t use the adapter?


Lopi Rockport
Blaze King Ashford 25
 
I had to remove the set screw that is circled in red on my tstat. I wouldn't go messing with the tstat unless your confident in what you are doing.
Yes, mine has that as well. I saw it last night. As far as a serial number, I can get that when I get home. I’m sure they didn’t use the extension. I watched them slide the liner down and connect it to the stove.
 
I had to remove the set screw that is circled in red on my tstat. I wouldn't go messing with the tstat unless your confident in what you are doing.
So the advice is to remove that set screw? Why was it installed in the first place?
 
Make 100% certain you are seeing the same exact screw...not the one on the flue collar. The one in red can be removed.
 
This is one of the last videos I had done, you can see the set screw that was blocking it from turning down lower. Once I removed that set screw I was able to fully close the tstat.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
Yes it’s the exact one. At first I thought maybe a wire or something was restricting the damper, causing the knob to stop prematurely. After further inspection I saw the set screw on the collar was stopping on the set screw on the housing at 3 oclock.... which led me to believe that was normal, because who puts a set screw somewhere that it doesn’t belong? Lol
 
This is one of the last videos I had done, you can see the set screw that was blocking it from turning down lower. Once I removed that set screw I was able to fully close the tstat.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Excellent! Does your knob stop at 12 o’clock after removing that set screw?
 
Apparently subcontractors that went above and beyond what they were told to do.
Lol yes! It ran really well the first night. So it was kind of nice to simply turn it all the way down until it stopped, knowing it wouldn’t smolder and go out in the middle of the night. Wish that set screw could be moved or adjusted to bottom out exactly where I wanted, or what suited my stove best.
 
This is one of the last videos I had done, you can see the set screw that was blocking it from turning down lower. Once I removed that set screw I was able to fully close the tstat.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.


What’s the temp gauge for again?


Lopi Rockport
Blaze King Ashford 25
 
So here is a video after I did after the fix (you can see my mark for full closed flap) and removed that set screw, I was still seeing more flames than I wanted and tracked the issue down to an air leak under the tstat. I ended up putting furnace cement over that part and the stove was able to really turn down low after that.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
I would also make sure the flap does not catch up on the ash lip, BK sent me a fix for that as well.

It was a quick and painless job!

Ah yes I saw that would be susceptible to getting stuck. What was the fix?