Blaze King proximity to NON-combustibles (masonry)

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RustyShackleford

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 6, 2009
1,357
NC
I have been told that it is a bad idea to have the REAR of the Blaze King
(King or Princess) VERY close to even a non-combustible (e.g. cinderblock)
wall. Because it will fool the thermostat, by radiating heat back at the
stove. Thus when the stove cools down, the masonry radiates heat back
at the thermostat, and it doesn't re-open properly.

They were a little vague about how far is far enough - maybe something like
4-6". I'm wondering, do any BK folk out there have their stove that close, or
closer, to masonry in the rear, and if so, are you experiencing this problem ?
 
I,m sitting about 11 inches out from the back of the air intake and don't believe I'm experiencing that. It does sound plausible though. I think another issue to be concerned about getting to close to a masonry wall would be drying out the mortar between the cinder block or hearth stones. The mortar would crack and start to fall out requiring re-pointing every few years if not sooner. I'm experiencing that now due to having my regency to close.
 
learnin to burn said:
I,m sitting about 11 inches out from the back of the air intake and don't believe I'm experiencing that. It does sound plausible though. I think another issue to be concerned about getting to close to a masonry wall would be drying out the mortar between the cinder block or hearth stones. The mortar would crack and start to fall out requiring re-pointing every few years if not sooner. I'm experiencing that now due to having my regency to close.

Mineis covered with stucco. Would SUCK if it started cracking, but the old Dutchwest was less than 6" away
and no problems. I am concerned about this thermostat thing though. Especially since I have to decide
which double-wall connector pipe to use, and they allow difference choices of offsets.

Maybe I should just rig it with cheap single-wall to begin with, and experiment ...
 
RustyShackleford said:
I have been told that it is a bad idea to have the REAR of the Blaze King
(King or Princess) VERY close to even a non-combustible (e.g. cinderblock)
wall. Because it will fool the thermostat, by radiating heat back at the
stove. Thus when the stove cools down, the masonry radiates heat back
at the thermostat, and it doesn't re-open properly.

They were a little vague about how far is far enough - maybe something like
4-6". I'm wondering, do any BK folk out there have their stove that close, or
closer, to masonry in the rear, and if so, are you experiencing this problem ?

Thanks for bringing up this subject. You saved me a lot of potential headaches. :red:

I spoke with "Chris" at Blaze King this afternoon about the distance and he said to make sure the 4"-6" was from the "Very Back" part of the stove. So what ever is sticking out the furthest on your stove.....that's where to measure from! Not from the firebox.
Sure would be nice if they put that in the manual!!!

Also anyone that ordered their stove in Brown..... they use Stove Bright High Temp Paint"Golden Fire Brown" for matching the stove pipe to the stove.
Blaze King proximity to NON-combustibles (masonry)
 
Are you planning on using and OAK? If so you might not have a problem. Reason being is looking at the pic below, the coil for the T-stat sits in the box with the yellow X on it. The air comes up the sides of where the butterfly flap is. If outside air is used the cold air from outside would keep this box cooler thus not allowing the additional heat radiation to cause a concern.

That's my thought, no scientific data to back it up though.

This is the setup on the King Stove. Yes I removed "the cover which says “Do Not Remove” and the world did not end ..."

1st - Picture - This is a top view from the left side of the stove - Top of pic is right side of stove where the T-stat knob is- Main body of stove is to the right.
Butterfly flap is fully open (highest setting) and rotates from its fully open position to the South in the picture.

2nd - picture - Top view - T-stat set on 1 - Flap is closed - In first pic you can see a small hole which allows air in when in this position.

Note - When stove is in use the the coil will open and close the flap as the coil heats and cools to maintain the heat output you have it set at.
Note - As per BK Tech Support - The only difference between the King and Princess T-Stat is a slight calibration to the coil.
 

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learnin to burn said:
Are you planning on using and OAK? If so you might not have a problem. Reason being is looking at the pic below, the coil for the T-stat sits in the box with the yellow X on it. The air comes up the sides of where the butterfly flap is. If outside air is used the cold air from outside would keep this box cooler thus not allowing the additional heat radiation to cause a concern.

That's my thought, no scientific data to back it up though.

Interesting idea, thanks.

Can't have an OAK directly beneath it, because there's a massive foundation supporting
aforementioned cinderblock wall (my builder called it "the sarcophagus").

There is a half-brick hole in my brick floor, more towards the front of the stove. Maybe
I could run some sort of duct from there to the back of the stove. Might look like doodoo
though ...
 
Thanks for the paint idea Hiram.

As Hiram mentioned 4-6 inches is what he said also. I'd go with 6 and see what happens
 
learnin to burn said:
Are you planning on using and OAK? If so you might not have a problem. Reason being is looking at the pic below, the coil for the T-stat sits in the box with the yellow X on it. The air comes up the sides of where the butterfly flap is. If outside air is used the cold air from outside would keep this box cooler thus not allowing the additional heat radiation to cause a concern.

Could you maybe edit your post to explain a little more what we're looking at in the photograph ?
Like, is it a top view ? Is the main body of the stove to the left or the right, or neither ...
Thanks !

I assume you removed the cover which says "Do Not Remove" and the world did not end ...
 
Hiram Maxim said:
RustyShackleford said:
I have been told that it is a bad idea to have the REAR of the Blaze King
(King or Princess) VERY close to even a non-combustible (e.g. cinderblock)
wall. Because it will fool the thermostat, by radiating heat back at the
stove. Thus when the stove cools down, the masonry radiates heat back
at the thermostat, and it doesn't re-open properly.

They were a little vague about how far is far enough - maybe something like
4-6". I'm wondering, do any BK folk out there have their stove that close, or
closer, to masonry in the rear, and if so, are you experiencing this problem ?

Thanks for bringing up this subject. You saved me a lot of potential headaches. :red:

I spoke with "Chris" at Blaze King this afternoon about the distance and he said to make sure the 4"-6" was from the "Very Back" part of the stove. So what ever is sticking out the furthest on your stove.....that's where to measure from! Not from the firebox.
Sure would be nice if they put that in the manual!!!

Yeah, would be nice if the manual had mentioned it. I was pretty concerned about how much farther
the BK would stick out into my room (than the old Dutchwest). I convinced myself another few inches
was ok, and ordered the Princess. But this was assuming the rear of the stove was only an inch or so
from the stucco (again, the stucco surfaces a free-standing cinder-block wall, there is nothing
combustible anywhere near).

Now it sounds like 4" is the least I can get away with, because of this thermostat issue. That's another
3" into the living area. I'm kinda bummed. I wonder if it's possible to somehow shield the thermostat
from the radiation from the cinderblock - other that the possible OAK idea already mentioned ...
 
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