Blaze King First Fire

[Wet1]

A few questions... What was the outside temp? How tall is your chimney? Are you using an OAK? What is the distance from the top of the stove to the centerline of the thimble?

 

[learnin to burn]

Hey Wet - Temp was high 38-41 and raining due to nor'easter, No Oak, chimney is 14' - 15', 26 inches to center line of thimble. FYI - It is 10" from top of stove to the start of the inside bend. I'm changing back to the original set up asap then figure out what to do from there.

 

[learnin to burn]

Solar - Here are a few pics of the butterfly for the T-stat. 1st pic, T-stat is set on 1. 2nd pic, T-stat is set on high and you can see a small whole where air will still enter the stove when air is set on 1.

 

[Wet1]

Well, the rain isn't helping anything, neither is the lack of OAK. Would it be difficult to add an OAK? It might not solve your problems (especially in this configuration), but it might help. Adding a few feet to you chimney wouldn't hurt either. I just measured mine to the thimble, I'm right about 25" to 26" as well... although my configuration is drastically different (as you know). You definitely have me a little more concerned now, I'd hate to have to resign mine to garage duty! I guess if nothing else, I could always lower my stove a little since it's a Parlor model, but I'm hopeful that wont be necessary.

Let us know how things progress.

 

[learnin to burn]

quote <I guess if nothing else, I could always lower my stove a little since it’s a Parlor model, but I’m hopeful that wont be necessary.>

LMAO :lol: I was just thinking about cutting my pedestal off and sticking a few bricks under it. R-value is of no concern concrete floor under stone hearth. That is a last resort though.

I'm also trying to figure out if a can put a section of single wall pipe into the stove collar connected to 6" length of DSP to the 45's. That will make the turn a little easier. With your install if you haven't bought your DSP yet seriously consider the DVL instead. They have shorter telescopic pieces to work with.

Check your PM's I'm shooting you 1 in a few moments.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Solar - Here are a few pics of the butterfly for the T-stat. 1st pic, T-stat is set on 1. 2nd pic, T-stat is set on high and you can see a small whole where air will still enter the stove when air is set on 1.

thanks ltb...your description the other day perfectly explained the behavior I have observed.

 

[Patapsco Mike]

My old catalytic VC Dutchwest used to backpuff occasionally, probably because of the basement install and an exterior chimney. It always seemed to happen right after loading the stove as I tried to reduce the primary air. The solution was always to get the firebox hotter and to burn for a bit longer before shutting down the primary air and closing the bypass. For me it was always a shoulder season thing, and it wasn't a problem after I figured out I had to be a little more patient (except during weird weather or when my wood was less than ideal). Based on your description, I think you have the same issue. You threw some splits in and only waited 10 minutes. I bet had you waited 10 more minutes you would have been good to go.

IMO dropping the stove won't do anything to help you. Get those 45's right and spend some time getting to know the stove.

 

[learnin to burn]

Don't panic yet wet1. I split a bunch of kindling to fire the stove back up after changing the pipe around again. I was able to cheat a little buy sniping off the collar of the telescopic pipe to make it fit into the stove collar. Once that was done I was able to make the 45's work. Anyway while splitting I tested for moister content and found most of my current wood is between 20% and 27% which explains the rapid creosote build up on the glass. I'll know more about how this set up works tomorrow.


Stay tuned for the updates.

 

[greythorn3]

man thats gonna be a killer stove when you get that chimeny worked out!

 

[Rich L]

Don't panic yet wet1. I split a bunch of kindling to fire the stove back up after changing the pipe around again. I was able to cheat a little buy sniping off the collar of the telescopic pipe to make it fit into the stove collar. Once that was done I was able to make the 45's work. Anyway while splitting I tested for moister content and found most of my current wood is between 20% and 27% which explains the rapid creosote build up on the glass. I'll know more about how this set up works tomorrow.


Stay tuned for the updates.

After looking at that picture of your set up I'm wondering if you move the stove forward on your hearth and run a diagonal length to your thimble you'll increase the length of your pipe which may increase your draft.That's how I increased my length to about five feet and my pipe runs from right to left.If it went directly into the thimble from underneath my run would be too short.

 

[learnin to burn]

Don't panic yet wet1. I split a bunch of kindling to fire the stove back up after changing the pipe around again. I was able to cheat a little buy sniping off the collar of the telescopic pipe to make it fit into the stove collar. Once that was done I was able to make the 45's work. Anyway while splitting I tested for moister content and found most of my current wood is between 20% and 27% which explains the rapid creosote build up on the glass. I'll know more about how this set up works tomorrow.


Stay tuned for the updates.

After looking at that picture of your set up I'm wondering if you move the stove forward on your hearth and run a diagonal length to your thimble you'll increase the length of your pipe which may increase your draft.That's how I increased my length to about five feet and my pipe runs from right to left.If it went directly into the thimble from underneath my run would be too short.

I'm glad that worked out for you Rich unfortunately for me it didn't work. I have a pic up (a few posts up) showing my diagonal run that didn't work for me. Of course I'm also battling wood that I thought was seasoned pretty well but it looks like the North East Rain pattern this year slowed down the process. I'll have to reload shortly and then give another update.

 

[Wet1]

Once again, thanks for posting your latest news.

We got rained out this weekend, so I'm pushed back yet another week. Thank goodness I'm in no rush...

 

[learnin to burn]

Update - 3 - After all the fussing around with the different pipe configurations I've concluded for my setup the original configuration seems to work the best. I still get some back puffing when the door is open but the fire seemed to burn better even with wet wood that way. So I changed back to the 90 tonight and lit another fire.

Original set up - I still had visible fire with a T-stat setting of 2.25 Cat still active after 15 hours.
Second set up - Hard to start fire, Fire died down when door was closed with highest T-stat setting but still burned, on a T-stat setting of 3 the fire went out and the smoke would ignite and blow smoke out of the stove through the door and T-stat. Turned T-stat back to highest setting and let fire burn out.
Third set up - Not as hard starting the fire, Fire would go out at 2.75, Cat inactive after 8 - 10 hours.
Original set up - Fire started up nice let it get going good then added splits slowly until full. It's 26 degrees out side and 71 inside. .

To me it seems like the extra 3.5 inches to the first change of direction is a big help. Not a cure but a help. I'm pondering the next move.

Any input is welcome.

 

[North of 60]

Ive said it every time with recomending this stove.... DRY WOOD Start from there....

 

[BigBlockChevy]

What I have to do is leave the by-pass open for 10 minutes with the TSTAT on high and the front door closed. My flue temp elevates quickly and improves my draft. I have my wood sitting next to the stove and load. Seems to work ok for me and less smoke issue.

 

[Wet1]

I have to agree with the others, but I'd also consider adding an OAK if possible. Even running a temporary 4" dryer hose (vented) to the stove might be a worthwhile experiment. Is the chimney well insulated?

 

[learnin to burn]

There in lies the problem - No Oak at this time, to put an oak in so it would be below the stove I would have to run it 40 feet, go through 2 interior walls and then an exterior cinder block wall. Leaving the window next to the stove open doesn't help so I don't think just going up 40 inches and out the wall is going to help much.

7x7 clay flue is what I currently have. I'm considering options for either a class A which would have to come up and out to the left of current position. (I'm not sure this option is doable) Having the thimble moved up which will get me 30 - 32 inches of rise. Or just put a liner in then see what happens. or combination of liner and raising the thimble.

I suppose I could take a chance on trying a temporary oak set up in the window to see if that helps.

Thanks guys

 

[Wet1]

I think I'd start by rigging up a temporary OAK out the window and see if that improves anything. I'd use some flashing and tape (I don't think the air intake gets all that warm, but check) to attach the OAK to the stove and then send the other end out a nearby window or door (seal off the rest of the opening with cardboard or something).

Have you tried BBC and No60's suggestions? Results?

It sounds like you have a functional setup now. If you can wait, I'll be getting mine hooked up in the house in the coming weeks and that might shed some light on what other modifications to your system may or may not be beneficial.

 

[learnin to burn]

The dry wood is going to be hard to come by. I have 5 cord of mostly Ash that has been split/stacked since march. I thought it was going to be good :roll:. I will try BBC's sugestion also

 

[SolarAndWood]

Is this just a cold start issue or every reload? I have been burning a mixed assortment of chunks, some dry others not. When I have a less than ideal load and do a cold start, it seems to help to close the latch on the door and then let the door close against the latch. I leave it like that until some of the excess moisture is burned out of the load and the stove warms up a bit. Then, go to what bbc described with the t-stat on high and the bypass open before closing the bypass.

 

[Wet1]

Well if your wood is still wet, you're fighting a losing battle. You might want to bite the bullet and go buy a few bundles of dry wood at the store. At least you can rule the wood out this way. To fill the BK, that should cost you about $190 in wood bundles from the gas station. :cheese:

 

[learnin to burn]

Solar - Yes it is every load that I get smoke. I use the same procedure of letting the latch hold the door open when starting a fire. To minimize the smoke on reloads I have been tossing in just a few splits at a time then close the door, let it get going a bit and toss a few more splits in until it is full.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Another thing you might try is opening up the t-stat at the end of the burn cycle. Give it a couple of minutes, then rake out the corners to the front center and let that get good and hot before you reload. I would also load up the stove and live with a few minutes of smoke until it is warm enough to reengage the cat. Every time you open that big loading door, the entire system cools off.

 

[rick-g]

Anybody fire it up OUTSIDE, with maybe a piece of black stovepipe on the top ?

I guess that means you need your buddies there twice, once to get it off the truck,
again to move it into the house.

But all the paint outgas is outside ...

I sell these babies and always try to burn them outside first, you need at least 3 feet of pipe and it still doesn't burn well but it sure is better than that stink in the house!

 

[rick-g]

Anybody fire it up OUTSIDE, with maybe a piece of black stovepipe on the top ?

I guess that means you need your buddies there twice, once to get it off the truck,
again to move it into the house.

But all the paint outgas is outside ...

I sell these babies and always try to burn them outside first, you need at least 3 feet of pipe and it still doesn't burn well but it sure is better than that stink in the house!