Ashful
Minister of Fire
Happens every year, about this time. Folks are itching to burn!I can't believe this turned into a heated debate! Maybe we need to get into burning season? Withdrawal symptoms maybe?
Happens every year, about this time. Folks are itching to burn!I can't believe this turned into a heated debate! Maybe we need to get into burning season? Withdrawal symptoms maybe?
That's like a full blown heroine addict taking a bunch of anti diarrhea pills, just gets you by.Been burning, in the outdoor fire pit.
Same here. Yep, that's right! Oak and hickory going up in flames!Been burning, in the outdoor fire pit.
I'm also considering the Chinook 30. I'm not clear if or how the optional blower changes the heat delivery when the blower is not turned on. Does the blower kit add additional shielding or restrict natural convection (even to a small degree) when it's present but off?Get the blower! I don't always use mine but it sure makes a big difference on really cold days, or when the inside temp is low and you want to bring it up quickly.
I thought it was a heating debate!I can't believe this turned into a heated debate!
I'm also considering the Chinook 30. I'm not clear if or how the optional blower changes the heat delivery when the blower is not turned on. Does the blower kit add additional shielding or restrict natural convection (even to a small degree) when it's present but off?
I thought it was a heating debate!
Hello Neighbor. The blower kit takes the place of the rear heat shield and allows you to use the reduced rear clearance. The blower ducts cover the rear of the stove on either side of the thermostat riser. The fans are paddle fans that do not appear to limit natural convection when off. My fans are almost always in the off position but make a huge difference when they are running. I only run them when I need to raise the room temperature a lot and not when maintaining which is what the BK is good at due to the long steady burn times.
OK, trying to wrap my head around the specifics. When you say the blower kit allows reduced clearances, is that simply because the blower kit makes the back or sides of the stove larger/bulkier (increases size of stove exterior) or does the blower kit allow the firebox to be placed closer to surfaces? I hope you see what I'm getting at.
The blower kit includes fans and a metal shell that cover up a majority of the rear of the stove. The rear heat shield kit (no fans) also is a metal shell that covers up a majority of the rear of the stove. Either of these (plus double wall pipe) allows you to use the reduced clearance specification in the manual. Neither the fan kit nor the rear heat shield kit change the stove size since the thing you measure from is the thermostat hump which is really big.
For my install the back of my BK is 6" from the combustible wall. I have double wall pipe. I had to buy the fan kit or the rear heat shield to allow 6" clearance as measured from the back of the thermostat hump.
A couple more question on the Chinook 30.
1) I don't think I've seen a single forum member with this stove even though it's been available for years. What's with that, people don't like modern styling? I think it's a great looking stove. This is less of a question and more of an observation (and a call for Chinook owners to speak up).
2) The Chinook has almost the same firebox dimensions vs. the Princess and yet the emissions/test results are quite different. What accounts for this difference?
3) Can I use the top of the Chinook during power outages to cook/boil water on. My current stove is a early EPA approved Seefire and a normal/medium fire will achieve surface temperatures around 600F-700F and boil a tea kettle about as fast as my electric kitchen range. I don't expect this from the Chinook but will I be able to boil water in a reasonable amount of time without needing to stoke it to the hilt? It's not uncommon to lose power for days on end at this location.
Just trying to make sure this is the replacement stove for me before I buy considering that no one else seems to have one.
I know the mods dislike double-posting, but you might do well to ask some of these questions in the BK performance thread.
2) good question. They seem to have traded efficiency for lower emissions. The princess is pretty dirty at 2.5 gph. The 30 box also doesn't get the generous 6" deep belly for ash.
3) if you have access to the actual stove top, you can boil water. The stove top has a hot spot over the 1500 degree cat.
I thought the vertical dimension of the 30 series firebox was actually 3/4" more than that of the Princess. Is it just the vertical placement of the door opening relative to the firebox that makes the ash belly more generous?
I plan on getting the fan kit. Does that affect access to "the actual stove top"? Because that is really what my question was about. Can I put the kettle right on the heavy metal surrounding the combustion chamber or is access prevented by a thinner (and cooler) jacket?
Time to look at some pictures I guess. The 30 box is smaller than the princess by some small amount and several % less efficient. Very different looks though and so similar in specs that they're effectively the same for most people.
The 30 box is smaller than the princess by some small amount and several % less efficient. Very different looks though and so similar in specs that they're effectively the same for most people.
A couple more question on the Chinook 30.
1) I don't think I've seen a single forum member with this stove even though it's been available for years. What's with that, people don't like modern styling? I think it's a great looking stove. This is less of a question and more of an observation (and a call for Chinook owners to speak up).
2) The Chinook has almost the same firebox dimensions vs. the Princess and yet the emissions/test results are quite different. What accounts for this difference?
3) Can I use the top of the Chinook during power outages to cook/boil water on. My current stove is a early EPA approved Seefire and a normal/medium fire will achieve surface temperatures around 600F-700F and boil a tea kettle about as fast as my electric kitchen range. I don't expect this from the Chinook but will I be able to boil water in a reasonable amount of time without needing to stoke it to the hilt? It's not uncommon to lose power for days on end at this location.
Just trying to make sure this is the replacement stove for me before I buy considering that no one else seems to have one.
I have one.
Having the convection deck will make cooking difficult.
I am heating 2000 square feet with it ,when its real cold here say below 10,you need those fans going to push the heat around.
We have had one power outage test so far but only for a few hours.Performance will not be the same as with the fans but I am sure it can keep us very comfortable if we could not use them.
Please just providing some information for better comparison without trying to cause disturbance
While I am not certain,I do not think the stove is supposed to be operated without the convection deck.Fans or no fans it doesn't matter.Ah, DrStorm, you are the only one I've seen here with the Chinook! Thank-you for responding.
Is the "convection deck" part of the fan kit? Without the fan kit there is no top shroud?
I think I need the fans because I leave my ski cabin unheated until we arrive. It's typically about 41 degrees throughout upon arrival and I use my highest btu wood to build as hot a fire as possible to help heat it up quickly. I'm afraid without the fans on the thermostat will limit the amount of peak burn. My current stove is good for the quick heat-up but the firebox is starting to sag from 25 years of hot fires and the aging Seefire can't burn low enough to keep me from roasting like a pig on a spit so I'm looking forward to it's replacement!
Would it be impractical to remove the convection deck when the power failed for cooking/boiling purposes? Maybe I just need to keep a gas cookstove in the shed for emergencies? Much rather use the stovetop though if possible.
The specs on the Blaze King website lead me to a very opposite conclusion, that there are significant operational differences between the Princess and Chinook models. Have you had experience with both models? Let's compare specs provided by Blaze King:
Princess: (broken link removed to http://www.blazeking.com/EN/PDF/manuals/OM-PE-E.pdf)
Chinook: (broken link removed to http://www.blazeking.com/EN/PDF/manuals/OM-CK30-E.pdf)
Heat range:
Princess: Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from 12000 to 35600 Btu/hr. This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered.
Chinook: Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from 6107 to 28636 Btu/hr. This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered.
It looks like the minimum burn rate of the Chinook can go down to almost half that of the Princess while the Princess can deliver almost 25% more heat at full blast. Seems pretty significant.
Recommended wood length:
Princess: 16” max. (407 mm)
Chinook: 18” (457 mm) max.
It looks like the Chinook can conveniently accept logs that are 12% longer than the Princess.
Firebox door opening:
Princess: 16 3/8” x 8 1/4” (416 mm x 210 mm)
Chinook: 18 5/8” x 9 7/8” (473 mm x 251 mm)
Chinook door opening is a full 2 1/4" wider and 1 5/8" taller.
Firebox dimensions(WxHxD):
Princess: 21 1/8" x 12 1/2" x 18"
Chinook: 20" x 12/ 7/8 x 18"
Princess is 1 1/8" wider and Chinook is 3/8" taller. Looks like the Princess's deeper belly for ash is only due to a smaller loading door.
Catalytic Combustor:
Princess: Z4400G ceramic
Chinook: Z0336A-M Metal
I see differences here I think most owners would find significant (maybe not Beavis and Butthead) and I haven't even got into the emissions specs!
Wow! Those specs are much closer to one another than the specs I linked to directly from the manufacturer's website (see my two links above). I wonder why?
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