Blaze King Belching smoke

[SolarAndWood]

mine smokes when the stove is 450 degrees ... and the pipe is really hot

You open the door when it is 450 degrees?

 

[North of 60]

mine smokes when the stove is 450 degrees ... and the pipe is really hot

You open the door when it is 450 degrees?

+2+3+4 ???

You got smoke, you got fuel, you got 450F. Leave that stove alone. Your gonna shock that cat with extra cold air also when that door is opened at those temps. Load that stove. Char it, set it and forget it.
What are you trying to do or achieve when doing this? No comprehend?

 

[BigBlockChevy]

Don't enduce too much draft or you can overheat the catalytic deal. My manual suggested the correct draft and I think it was .04 wc. If you create to much draft then you could get into problems.

Incidentally, I have seen the motorized caps that increase draft (suction) but they mostly clogged up with the colder temperatures around here.

 

[hoverp]

Ok I hink there is a serious misunderstanding.....I load full start , bypass, air wide open ...get the Cat to temp, close bypass, let stove get nice and hot all is well stove temp on pipe is 250-275 on a 2.0-2.5 mid burn setting. let it cook for a long time.....dont want to let it get too cold...or low on wood at certain times...(gee I need to leave for 6 hours and I need to load smoe more wood in.

Here is where it gets stupid....

turn air wide open, open bypass, let sit for 10 minutes or more flu temps go up to 300-325 on magnetic temp guage,(flu gas is hotter than this...) draft is going up...., turn fan off, crack door, get inbound air rush, open door more and internal smoke that starts to roll around fire box and follows the airwash over the glass path...but there is NO GLASS....have two 1/4 splits or one half split ready and standing by on the hearth ...pick up wood, start to put it in ...smoke comming out....rush to get wood in, more smoke comming out...get next piece in, get door shut as quick as possible, go pull the 9volt out of the ceiling fire alarm ....


Ive tried every combo I can think of...the ONLY time it wont smoke out is if I let it burn all wood down to nothing but embers red hot glowing embers.......I CANT DO THAT ALL THE TIME!

I should be able to load 2 splits mid burn if i need to without smoke comming out. going to try 2 45 elbows next...

 

[SolarAndWood]

Do you burn it down at least this far?

 

[hoverp]

thats the only time I dont get smoke but like I said I cant always do that...sometimes I have to load mid burn.....

 

[SolarAndWood]

Gotcha. We were having the scheduling problem in the transition from 24 hour burn cycles to 12 hour cycles. I adjust what I put in the stove based on weather conditions to keep us on the 12 hr schedule.

 

[hoverp]

Gotcha. We were having the scheduling problem in the transition from 24 hour burn cycles to 12 hour cycles. I adjust what I put in the stove based on weather conditions to keep us on the 12 hr schedule.

Copy, I see your from S. NY ..

my whole family on my side is from upstate...Rochester and Syracuse Good people up there!

 

[chrisman34]

Gotcha. We were having the scheduling problem in the transition from 24 hour burn cycles to 12 hour cycles. I adjust what I put in the stove based on weather conditions to keep us on the 12 hr schedule.

Copy, I see your from S. NY ..

my whole family on my side is from upstate...Rochester and Syracuse Good people up there!

THANKS I am in Canandaigua Right in the middle of the 2 LOL

 

[flamereader]

I also have the king ultra and installed it into an insulated 6" and had smoke in all but ideal conditions. I removed the 6" and installed an 8" and no more smoke. I started with 8" from stove to ceiling support and reduced it to fit the 6" but could not stop the smoke problem with 6".

 

[Hogwildz]

SO its not the stove, but the operator.
Not knocking ya. You need to ultimately load in line with your schedule.
If you have no set schedule, it will make it more difficult.

Here, I load about 8am, then again at 4 or 5pm, then again at 12 midnightish.
Same routing every day. Once in a while I'll be out past 4, but always still have plenty of coals left for reload.
24/7 burning is easiest with a set schedule, same loadings every day. I try and schedule my tasks around that as best I can. Or I would adjust my loading times.

 

[hoverp]

TOTAL repipe RETROFIT: I just installed 2 x 8 inch adjustable 90's, and reduced the horizontal run of pipe by a good 14-15 inches the pipe is now angled up with the actual hole of the cat bypass (when its open) and into a sloping up pipe into a nice 7 inch (insulated with fiberglass and aluminum tape) horizontal pipe tilted up much better than the 8 inch was, and only 16 inch to the entry of the clay liner of the chiminey. I know that was hard to follow with words but I will post pics tomorrow.

we will see if this helps with the smoke in the room. It sure looks much smooother for airflow and the horizontal run was really reduced and angled much more up and away because of the 7 inch pipe in the 8 inch masonry hole in the chiminey.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Lets see some pics and hear the report.

 

[hoverp]

Ok here is a few pics... (one is of the old 16 inches straight up to a 90 then a real long run of single wall un insulated in the brick with a very tight(read heat absorbing) interference fit to the mortar.) Its hard to tell from the first picture but there is a long run of horizontal pipe comming out of the wall until it hits the 90 and starts the turn down. The first picture doesnt show the amount that I reduced but it was a good 15-16 inches in the re-design.

Re-design and first burn : I necked down at the wall right behind the 90 to 7 inch pipe wrapped in fiberglass and aluminum tape that goes through the masonry into the flu. Only about 18 total inches of 7 inch pipe. that gave me clearance enough to get a good heat shield on it (since it was a form fit 8 inch hole and the old 8 inch single wall pipe was a very tight fit.) It also let me angle up the 7 inch through pipe toward the roof (slope up) more than the 8 inch did because of the interference fit the 8 inch had with the almost level hole in the masonry. The bends are shallower and it seemas to draft better by watching the performance of the stove and the CAT...the flue pipe temp as you can see (not th best pic) is 300 (verified by my IR digital gun) at the bottom while the CAT is nice and hot(actually glowing) and this is on a setting of settled in 1.75 It was not like this prior....at the 1.5 setting after a few hours of burning the CAT was never that hot...more toward the 10-11 oclock position on the CAT temp guage.

Part of me having to reload in the middle of the burn is that It would cool off to much mid cycle and not keep the constant heat output...so far this has not happened today... the wood is getting down in size but the temp is staying exactly the same! First time for this. This I think is because of the improved draft.....Not that one burn is all inclusive but it seriously notice the difference in behavior.

The smoke still escapes out the front of the door but not as bad.... I think overall my draft has improved with this re-design and the insulated pipe seems to help keep it pulling better.

Prior to the re-design my flu pipe temp was also 50-75 degrees cooler 200-225 at this 1.75 setting and really setting up some creosote.

Thanks to Mark for helping me with this project!
Patrick

 

[hoverp]

Ok here is a few pics... (one is of the old 16 inches straight up to a 90 then a real long run of single wall un insulated in the brick with a very tight(read heat absorbing) interference fit to the mortar.) Its hard to tell from the first picture but there is a long run of horizontal pipe comming out of the wall until it hits the 90 and starts the turn down. The first picture doesnt show the amount that I reduced but it was a good 15-16 inches in the re-design.

Re-design and first burn : I necked down at the wall right behind the 90 to 7 inch pipe wrapped in fiberglass and aluminum tape that goes through the masonry into the flu. Only about 18 total inches of 7 inch pipe. that gave me clearance enough to get a good heat shield on it (since it was a form fit 8 inch hole and the old 8 inch single wall pipe was a very tight fit.) It also let me angle up the 7 inch through pipe toward the roof (slope up) more than the 8 inch did because of the interference fit the 8 inch had with the almost level hole in the masonry. The bends are shallower and it seemas to draft better by watching the performance of the stove and the CAT...the flue pipe temp as you can see (not th best pic) is 300 (verified by my IR digital gun) at the bottom while the CAT is nice and hot(actually glowing) and this is on a setting of settled in 1.75 It was not like this prior....at the 1.5 setting after a few hours of burning the CAT was never that hot...more toward the 10-11 oclock position on the CAT temp guage.

Part of me having to reload in the middle of the burn is that It would cool off to much mid cycle and not keep the constant heat output...so far this has not happened today... the wood is getting down in size but the temp is staying exactly the same! First time for this. This I think is because of the improved draft.....Not that one burn is all inclusive but it seriously notice the difference in behavior.

The smoke still escapes out the front of the door but not as bad.... I think overall my draft has improved with this re-design and the insulated pipe seems to help keep it pulling better.

Prior to the re-design my flu pipe temp was also 50-75 degrees cooler 200-225 at this 1.75 setting and really setting up some creosote.

Thanks to Mark for helping me with this project!
Patrick

I also noticed the stove is more responsive to the thermostat now than it was before. Going from 1.75 to 2.0 gave me 50 degrees on the pipe temp and a full clock position on the CAT gauge.