Yes, I just bought 6ft of each one.Did you have to cut the gaskets to length?
Yep. It costs a bit more but I get OEM gasket now, I don't mess with the farm store or stove shop aftermarket stuff. There's low-,med- and high-density, and I figure the stove maker knows what works best in each application.I got whatever the BK dealer sold me.
I totally re-gasketed the Buck, bay windows and all, about a week ago. I sat on a chair, held the glass between my knees and applied the tape gasket to the top edge of the glass. I held the tape between my thumbs and forefingers, one hand on each side of the glass so that my forefingers kept the tape centered on the edge of the glass (hard to visualize, I know.)5. I was concerned about getting the gasket on the edge of the glass properly, centered so it folds down an equal amount on each side of the glass.
The Buck door and ash pan gaskets are secured with silicone, not glue. I used the 700-degree copper stuff from the auto parts store. The gaskets seem to unravel at the cut ends, so this time I dabbed a little silicone on the ends of the door and ash pan gaskets. I didn't want too much on there, where it would harden into a solid blob, just wanted enough to keep the gasket from unraveling yet retain the ability to compress in the same way a plain gasket would.7. The door seal gasket was pretty straightforward.
Good stuff. I've used it to patch the vertical seams in the fire boxes on a couple stoves, where I could see cement missing. It's just runny enough where it can get in the seams really well."Meecos Red Devil Gasketing Cement and Stove Sealer". Pretty runny stuff
Yeah, I thought of that too. It'd suck to need to lower it; would require removing some metal from the door or the stove body.I suppose its easier to raise the door as opposed to lowering it. Maybe smart manufacturing?
My door gasket hits fairly square. My only problem is my stove is new and I think I will need a gasket soon.
Had to tighten the latch a couple turns before my first fire then one more turn after the first couple fires.
My theory on this is that my stove was a floor model that I suspect occupied the same display spot at the stove shop for four years.
The door was likely opened and shut about as many times over the years as it would have been if it seen regular use. Probably more.
Leave the door where it is, and raise the stove instead.My door was always a tad too low too, never thought of putting a washer to raise it a hair.
My door is raised by the use of plain machine washers from hd. I want to say 3/8"? Before this, the door was too low. I like the washers anyway.
Yeah, just grasping at straws.Rustybuddy....never had our door warp before, never.
Yeah, that must be it.My guess is that as you placed the gasket somehow it got stretched in that section perhaps more than the rest of the area.
Sure mine got like that with the old worn-out gasket (since tightening the latch only pulls one side of the door closer to the stove body).I know for fact there is always a little less tension in hinge side.
It certainly doesn't fall out, just pulls out real easy. Thanks.So long the the door hold the bill and it does not fall out, you should be o.k.
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