Bixby Maxfire 115 convection fan issues

[rona]

Ok, first of all I want to thank everyone for trying to help me, a total stranger. I called Mr Blume and he had difficulty believing it was the thermocouple and after discussing a bit I realized the whole time I had the damn thing plugged into the wrong spot. I feel like an idiot because I have plugged that stupid thing in a hundred times because it always comes off at the slightest brush. Anywho, my stove is running great and best of all it didn't cost me anything other than propane to heat the house. Thank you all again and I am very sorry I wasted your time.

You aren't the only one who stuck that connector in the wrong spot. Did it myself and afterward wondered why did they put a connecter on the igniter board? I get that same question probably 6 times a season from people simply because it has a bad connecter system and any vibration it will come off. If you bend that stiff wire a little it will apply pressure to that connector and you won't have any more trouble

 

[Mt Bob]

You aren't the only one who stuck that connector in the wrong spot. Did it myself and afterward wondered why did they put a connecter on the igniter board? I get that same question probably 6 times a season from people simply because it has a bad connecter system and any vibration it will come off. If you bend that stiff wire a little it will apply pressure to that connector and you won't have any more trouble

How about a small dab of silicone sealer?

 

[rona]

How about a small dab of silicone sealer?

Guess I never tried that. I bent that brown wire so it put pressure on the board and never had any problem after that. It would probably help but make sure you can remove it from that board if you need to. At some point these boards require attention such as replacing small parts that will go bad due to over heating etc. If you seem to replace igniters very often sending the board in will solve that problem.

 

[Monz]

What lights blink? There should be a couple lights blinking that may point out your problem. Have you ever replaced the bearings in your convection fan? It is easy to do and a lot cheaper then to buy a complete fan. Some times it will seem to spin free but still not work. We replaced the bearings and it ran perfect. I would check the connections on the board looking at the thermos coupler or stiff brown wire that is J18 upper right corner of large board. That connection can vibrate loose

How do you replace the bearings? And where do you get the new bearings?

 

[ohbix]

it takes two 608zz bearings (rubber shielded are ok too). I purchased SKF bearings, but some people have successfully used skateboard bearings. I have the Bixby how to file re; bearing replacement. If you'd like that, provide an email address and I'll send it. The hardest steps are 1. removing the hard to access screw by the exhaust tube which holds the fan housing in place, and 2. replacing the snap ring on the motor, if you don't have a snap ring tool.

 

[bags]

FYI to all of you Bixby folks. I noticed there is a brand new Bixby for sale in Cincinnati, OH Craigslist for $1,400 if I recall. It has never been hooked up and used. They moved and just never had a use for it. It's in Anderson Township just east of Cincy.

Thought I would throw this out to you all if you were looking or knew anyone that was. The stove is black and looks just like Rona's picture.

 

[rona]

it takes two 608zz bearings (rubber shielded are ok too). I purchased SKF bearings, but some people have successfully used skateboard bearings. I have the Bixby how to file re; bearing replacement. If you'd like that, provide an email address and I'll send it. The hardest steps are 1. removing the hard to access screw by the exhaust tube which holds the fan housing in place, and 2. replacing the snap ring on the motor, if you don't have a snap ring tool.

 

[rona]

I have to disagree with both skate bearings and rubber sealed bearings. Also any using oil. It gets hot where that bearing is located and simply put you may as well buy the bearings that are used by professional people who rebuild motors. They buy bearings that are metal shielded plus they have high temp grease in them made for the job.
I have tried numerous types of bearings for this application and the best ones came from your local electric motor repair shops. I have removed the fan and removed the motors to replace the bearings many times and yeah it is not fun so why do it more then you have to? a few years ago I bought some 120 Bixby stoves from a dealer who had bought 300 from Bixby and was reselling them. Before those stoves were shipped he replaced the bearings in these new stoves because he knew they were inferior bearings. He replaced them with bearings like I described and never had a complaint. Since then when I get a used stove in and rebuild it those bearings are automatically replaced with the same high quality ones.

 

[Monz]

it takes two 608zz bearings (rubber shielded are ok too). I purchased SKF bearings, but some people have successfully used skateboard bearings. I have the Bixby how to file re; bearing replacement. If you'd like that, provide an email address and I'll send it. The hardest steps are 1. removing the hard to access screw by the exhaust tube which holds the fan housing in place, and 2. replacing the snap ring on the motor, if you don't have a snap ring tool.

I would appreciate the How To file. I am mechanically able to do the work myself and do have the required tools. My email address is: [email protected] Thank you for the info. I have already replaced the convection fan a couple of years ago, but am NOT gonna replace it again. I'll be getting a new and different brand stove before that happens. I've had this stove since 2004, and its been good for us. I've kept it well maintained but it's getting harder to find help, parts, advice, etc.... for this stove. I'll try changing bearings, thermocouple and snap disc and see what happens.
Thanks again, Steve

 

[climber]

The convection fan of my Bixby was lazy lately, worked with audible interruptions and eventually stopped. It was making a chirping sound now and then. Sounded like a bad bearing to me. The stove is very clean inside and was well-maintained.

When I noticed there was no airflow from convection vents, I just shut the stove down to avoid overheating. In a few hours I turned the stove on (the lowest setting), opened the side and saw the fan rotating slowly so I could easily stop it with a finger. Occasionally the fan would stat running if I turned it with a finger as well. Sometimes it would start by itself, run slowly and stop again. Never moved to high RPM mode.

What's wrong? How can I make sure the problem is the fan itself and not some other electrical components? I can remove the fan if necessary. Thank you for any helpful information.

 

[rona]

The convection fan of my Bixby was lazy lately, worked with audible interruptions and eventually stopped. It was making a chirping sound now and then. Sounded like a bad bearing to me. The stove is very clean inside and was well-maintained.

When I noticed there was no airflow from convection vents, I just shut the stove down to avoid overheating. In a few hours I turned the stove on (the lowest setting), opened the side and saw the fan rotating slowly so I could easily stop it with a finger. Occasionally the fan would stat running if I turned it with a finger as well. Sometimes it would start by itself, run slowly and stop again. Never moved to high RPM mode.

What's wrong? How can I make sure the problem is the fan itself and not some other electrical components? I can remove the fan if necessary. Thank you for any helpful information.

I would start by removing the fan and replacing the two bearings. I have seen that fan act the same way and normally replacing the bearings solves the problem. what heat level was the stove running at when you had the problem. I have a 120 that the convection fan will actually stop running when it is on heat level one. After a few minutes it will start up and run fine. I guess that is a normal thing with the 120s

 

[climber]

Thank you for the reply. It was at level 2. Do you think I should let it run at higher levels and ignore stopped fan for a while hoping that it will start again? Do you have part numbers or links for the replacement bearings?

 

[rona]

Thank you for the reply. It was at level 2. Do you think I should let it run at higher levels and ignore stopped fan for a while hoping that it will start again? Do you have part numbers or links for the replacement bearings?

If you run it at level 6 that is the maximum speed the convection fan will run. Meaning you will be moving as much air as possible through the convection tubes which will be cooling the tubes. You won't hurt anything by doing that.
The bearing size is 608 SKF . Depending on your location and ability sometimes I recommend to remove the housing from the stove and take it to a electric motor rebuilding shop and they will do the rest for you. That way you will be assured of good quality bearings made to do the job. You can go on E-Bay but don't buy the cheap bearings as they won't last. I don't have the exact size memorized but Monday I will find out and post it.
It is hard for me to know what ability people have and most can remove the housing. Some can remove and replace the bearings easily but other people may not have the tools or experience to remove the small spring clips that hold the bearing in position and end up in trouble. Then there is all kinds of different quality bearings that fit so you want the right ones. Taking it to a repair shop you get the job done with the right bearing designed for the job it does.

 

[climber]

Rona,

Thank you fro the reply. Today, I set it at level 6, but the fun did not start at all until I helped it with a finger. It ran pretty fast for a minute or so and then stopped. Every time I turned it with finger, it would run for a few seconds and then stop. I can feel friction when I turn the fun by hand. After a while the motor of the fan got hot.

I am trying to remove the fan housing from the stove following the instructions here:

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I did remove the J12 connector and ground wire, but there is a brown wire that comes from the fan motor and goes to a capacitor. Looks like I cannot remove the fan without disconnecting the capacitor from the motherboard since two wires (brown from the fan bundle and black from J12 connector) are permanently connected to the capacitor.
EDIT: The wires going to the capacitor can be disconnected leaving the capacitor on the board, but you may need it connected tp the fan if you want to bench test it with independent AC source.

 

[rona]

If you want to remove the convection fan to replace bearings do the following there is 4 screws two on each side that holds the bronze looking metal housing onto the inside of the stove. the round fan is inside this housing. So remove both side panels one on each side of stove . Remove furnace filter, remove the wing nuts holding the control board in position. Now you can tilt the control board to the back of the stove. Now before disconnecting the wires from the control box take a picture with your cell phone so you can put back the wires in the right spots.
Now look at the fan housing and you should see two tabs on each side of the metal housing that holds the fan there is two screws on each side use a 5/16 socket. Then disconnect the power by unplugging from the board, unplugging wires from capacitor and a ground wire. The two screws on the left are easy to see but on the right one is hidden by a round exh pipe. That one will require some patience.

Rona,

Thank you fro the reply. Today, I set it at level 6, but the fun did not start at all until I helped it with a finger. It ran pretty fast for a minute or so and then stopped. Every time I turned it with finger, it would run for a few seconds and then stop. I can feel friction when I turn the fun by hand. After a while the motor of the fan got hot.

I am trying to remove the fan housing from the stove following the instructions here:

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Accept third party cookies

I did remove the J12 connector and ground wire, but there is a brown wire that comes from the fan motor and goes to a capacitor. Looks like I cannot remove the fan without disconnecting the capacitor from the motherboard since two wires (brown from the fan bundle and black from J12 connector) are permanently connected to the capacitor.

The diverter plates have nothing to do with the convection fan you are wasting your time with that

 

[climber]

Thank you, Rona. Got the whole assembly out. I'll bench test it tomorrow.

If you scroll the page down, you will see a section for convection fan replacement. I followed their and your advice. Just ignore diverter plates, etc..

 

[rona]

Thank you, Rona. Got the whole assembly out. I'll bench test it tomorrow.

If you scroll the page down, you will see a section for convection fan replacement. I followed their and your advice. Just ignore diverter plates, etc..

when you reassemble the one screw in back of the exh tube can wear my patience. If you put some grease in the end of a socket it often is enough to hold the screw so it doesn't fall out of the socket.

 

[climber]

Thank you, Rona.
Just tested the fan outside of the stove and it ran fine. It was a bit noisy but at least it ran. So, something else makes it stop inside of the stove.

 

[rona]

The bit noisy tells me its the bearings. I have seen them quiet and yet after installing new bearings it ran perfect. If the bearing was real bad it could ruin the motor. Just my advice you will have to do what you feel is right. What is your other choices? Seems like the other is maybe the board but I would rather spend 25-30 for both bearings and try it rather then taking the board out and paying 125.00 to renew it especially when the tech is way behind and you may need the stove this winter. Usually because of the location it is one bearing that goes bad but when you have it apart its best to replace both of them.

 

[Ssyko]

Define noisy? Whines? Grinding? Does motor get hot?

 

[climber]

A chirping sound.

The motor did not heat up when I ran it from an independent source of 115 V AC, but it did heat up inside of the stove after it kept stopping. Even outside of the stove, the sound of the fan related to its RPM was not very stable/consistent, despite it never stopped.

 

[climber]

The bit noisy tells me its the bearings. I have seen them quiet and yet after installing new bearings it ran perfect. If the bearing was real bad it could ruin the motor. Just my advice you will have to do what you feel is right. What is your other choices? Seems like the other is maybe the board but I would rather spend 25-30 for both bearings and try it rather then taking the board out and paying 125.00 to renew it especially when the tech is way behind and you may need the stove this winter. Usually because of the location it is one bearing that goes bad but when you have it apart its best to replace both of them.

I agree with you. Because it is out anyway, it makes sense to replace the bearings, put the fan back in the stove and see if that solves the problem. Now, if I could find a place locally where they know what they are doing...

 

[rona]

I agree with you. Because it is out anyway, it makes sense to replace the bearings, put the fan back in the stove and see if that solves the problem. Now, if I could find a place locally where they know what they are doing...

Most towns have a electric motor repair shop and it is a easy job if you have the right tools. The trouble is there is some small compression springs and washers that hold things together and its very easy to loose them when trying to put things together. They have the right tools and if they do loose something they will have spares. I have had those things fly away and no spares on hand so learned the hard way to keep extras but for the one time user it isn't practical to keep them on hand.

 

[climber]

Most towns have a electric motor repair shop and it is a easy job if you have the right tools. The trouble is there is some small compression springs and washers that hold things together and its very easy to loose them when trying to put things together. They have the right tools and if they do loose something they will have spares. I have had those things fly away and no spares on hand so learned the hard way to keep extras but for the one time user it isn't practical to keep them on hand.

Thank you, Rona. I am a DIY guy, but since this is not my stove, will rather let the owner decide how to pursue.

 

[KingArfer]

Lots of good inforation here. Using the test from the manual, I found that my igniter board is bad. Any idea where I can find one? Thanks.