I just know Steve was selling it and I talked to him a week ago and said he sold it to a guy from Maine. and 2+2=5 lol
BIOMASS 60 REPLACEMENT PARTS
- Thread starter 91LMS
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
nice math, lol. cant wait to get it fixed up and online. would entertain doing dhw with it so I could get more familiar and work out any bugs prior to heating season. mega push on processing wood for future years right now
cityboy172
Feeling the Heat
91, I really think you have everything you need to install the linkage. Post a pic of the damper shaft assembly where the lever attaches. From memory I think it is just a bellcrank on the shaft that goes to the damper. Usually on assemblies like this a manufacturer will weld the bellcrank arm to a tube that slides over the damper shaft then pinned or bolted, but it's possible the bellcrank arm is just welded directly to the damper shaft.
If that's true:
1) with the top covers removed so you have access to the damper flapper, force the damper against it's seat, the short section of pipe about 6-8" in diameter coming out of the upper chamber. This positions the damper shaft in the correct CLOSED position. I'd somehow jam the damper closed with a board or something so it remains seated during this process.
2) position the damper lever as shown in the pic to 8.25" from the front face. You may need to rig/clamp the damper handle/pushrod to hold it in place since the side cover which supports the front end of the handle has to be off.
3) position the damper shaft bellcrank so it mates to the damper rod. I don't remember whether there's just a 90deg bend in the end of the damper rod or if it has a clevis. But once you can assemble the handle to the bellcrank you now have the proper geometry between the handle and the damper flap in the CLOSED position.
The device has only two positions. Once you assemble it to work in the closed position you'll automatically have the OPEN position correct. If Zenon can't provide the spring let me know and I'm sure I can step you through selecting several candidate springs from the Century Spring catalog to get it working. Your welcome to PM me if the above doesn't make sense.
If that's true:
1) with the top covers removed so you have access to the damper flapper, force the damper against it's seat, the short section of pipe about 6-8" in diameter coming out of the upper chamber. This positions the damper shaft in the correct CLOSED position. I'd somehow jam the damper closed with a board or something so it remains seated during this process.
2) position the damper lever as shown in the pic to 8.25" from the front face. You may need to rig/clamp the damper handle/pushrod to hold it in place since the side cover which supports the front end of the handle has to be off.
3) position the damper shaft bellcrank so it mates to the damper rod. I don't remember whether there's just a 90deg bend in the end of the damper rod or if it has a clevis. But once you can assemble the handle to the bellcrank you now have the proper geometry between the handle and the damper flap in the CLOSED position.
The device has only two positions. Once you assemble it to work in the closed position you'll automatically have the OPEN position correct. If Zenon can't provide the spring let me know and I'm sure I can step you through selecting several candidate springs from the Century Spring catalog to get it working. Your welcome to PM me if the above doesn't make sense.
- Status
Similar threads
