clean everything really well and install a properly sized and insulated liner the stove will run like a dreamLooks like I do have a "slammer". Took off faceplate this morning and found this. What would be my next step to fix this problem?
clean everything really well and install a properly sized and insulated liner the stove will run like a dreamLooks like I do have a "slammer". Took off faceplate this morning and found this. What would be my next step to fix this problem?
Well you can see some of the problems with that kind of install right off. All the sweepings end up on top and behind the insert so it' should have been pulled to really clean it. The smoke has no clear path so it's drafting lousy when its cool, so at startup and as it burns down. That means there's an opportunity for CO to get back into the house. Also since you can't use the original damper you're likely to get cold drafts and creosote smell in the house.Looks like I do have a "slammer". Took off faceplate this morning and found this. What would be my next step to fix this problem?
Well you can see some of the problems with that kind of install right off. All the sweepings end up on top and behind the insert so it' should have been pulled to really clean it. The smoke has no clear path so it's drafting lousy when its cool, so at startup and as it burns down. That means there's an opportunity for CO to get back into the house. Also since you can't use the original damper you're likely to get cold drafts and creosote smell in the house.
Best fix is a full liner to the top and a block-off plate to isolate the warm house from the chimney. Many of those old units use an 8" liner and the newer ones use 6" so there's a decision to be made about how much money to spend on this getting this insert working safely.
Want size is the current clay liner? Need to know what size it can accept. Also is this an interior or exterior chimney? I'm thinking if the last sweep just brushed everything down and left all that creosote he's not the guy for you. That stuff could ignite sitting on the insert so maybe you want to have another certified guy out to evaluate you for safety/clearances and options.
Experts here can talk you through it as well if you are a DIYer.
I just don't know how to adapt the stove damper to the liner. I am assuming it goes on the inside of the damper
If it is 7" then you should use a 7" liner. and an appliance adapter to match that linerjatoxico I just bought the house so I am still looking for a chimney guy. I measures the stove damper and its 7" ID. I was thinking a 6" liner and put an adapter on the instert. It is a interior chimney. I am more than comfortable doing stuff on my own. I just don't know how to adapt the stove damper to the liner. I am assuming it goes on the inside of the damper
Don't have a new stove in the budget at this time. I want to fix this to be safe, and then down the line get a new one.
yeah you could sell it i am sure but it is not worth all that much $300 to $400 at the highestDo you think I would be able to sell this insert?
It would probably work ok depending on the height. I personally would not do it but it might work@bholler can that stove run w/ a 6" liner?
As an option run the 6" liner to use the stove for this season. My thinking is a new EPA certified stove will need dry wood which will be tough to come by right now whereas the older stove will tolerate semi-seasoned wood. Run it hot, keep it clean and swept and figure on replacing it before next year.It would probably work ok depending on the height. I personally would not do it but it might work
why i have done it many times on similar unitsLooking at that damper I see a problem with installing the adapter and liner on that pup.
why i have done it many times on similar units
Its not hard just notch for the adapter for the rod and then possibly grind down the damper a little so it clears the adapter. It is still the easiest and best way to install it.Didn't say it couldn't be done. Just saying that as a rookie I see it as a problem.
The temps are to high post a picture of it they usually dont need sealed but the only thing that will hold up to the temps there is furnace cement.Was thinking hi temp rtv silicon or hi temp epoxy
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