Bathroom remodel - complex electrical issues

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

TresK3

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 12, 2007
150
Cincinnati, Ohio
Continuing with my bathroom gut-n-remodel... I have two questions (I'll post separate threads).

We are replacing all of the lights, the fan/light combo, and moving the GFI outlet. The house was built in '62, but the electric panel was updated by the previous owner (maybe 15 years back). They did not re-pull all the wires, but everything I've found is old 15 amp romex cable with woven covers and it appears in good shape.

The original configuration was two can lights near the sink and one can light in the shower. These were on two separate switches. Originally there was also a Nutone fan/light/heater combo in the center of the ceiling. This unit appeared original, but the switch had obviously been updated at some point (it had a digital clock and timer, and the wiring coming to it from the attic was plastic covered, not woven). A few years back I replaced the fan/light/heater and it's switch, but I didn't move any wires - I just marked the wires and swapped the units.

I have opened up the bathroom walls and moved several of the spices into junction boxes (they were just behind the plaster). When I did this, it seemed that I was getting continuity between a hot and neutral wire, with the breaker shut off. Up in the attic, all of the splices are in boxes, but they are small and crowded, so I need to move the wires into larger boxes and screw them to the joists. Based on this, my plan was to identify the wires coming in (the line) and simply rewire everything from there, from scratch.

In tracing the wires it appeared that there was was one line coming in and one load going out to another part of the house, post-bathroom. (The other possibility was two hot lines coming in - one from one part of the attic and one from another, and somehow joining in a junction box). To figure out which cable was line and which was load I shut off the breaker to the bathroom, confirmed that it was dead with my volt meter and went to unscrew half of an outlet that was in this circuit, but in another room on a shared wall. If the bathroom lights worked when I turned power back on, and the outlet was dead, I'd know which side was incoming (line). If the outlet worked but the lights were out, then the path went the other way. (Any problems with that logic?)

With the outlet confirmed dead, I started unscrewing the neutral on one side of it. All of a sudden, the lights came back on in the bathroom (yikes!). I checked the outlet again and I was reading current, but only about 90V. At this point I shut down the master breaker, re-wired the outlet as original, and brought everything back on line. Voltage in that outlet went back to 115V and everything works the same way it has since we bought the house. (The one thing I didn't do was to test breakers when the outlet was partially un-wired, to determine which other circuit was providing power - at this point I was too hot, tired, and frustrated to think clearly.)

I'm about ready to call in a trained electrician, but I have one more thought. If, indeed, there are two lines coming in, and at some point they were joined in a junction box, what if I separate them out? I would dedicate one circuit to the new mirror and shower lights and the other circuit to the new fan/light combo. If I shut off the house power, and un-wire both of the suspected incoming lines, I should be able to determine which breakers they are on (and if, indeed, they are both "line" cables).

Any thoughts on what's going on and how to proceed would be appreciated!
 
Marking, so I remember to reply late tonight. Re: crowded boxes, you're doing the right thing, in principle, but there are code limits to how many wires and junctions you can have in a given size box. On continuity between hot and neutral, make sure all loads are disconnected before testing. More tonight.
 
Sounds like they shared the neutral between two circuits on opposite side of the incoming 240v. 120 (110, 115, 117, whatever) is halfway between the two main feeds, and by removing the neutral the center now floats based on how the resistances between the two sides balance.

Not sure if that was ever code, but it's been used to save a few bucks on the second neutral wire. Trade off is a few lit up eyeballs if the wrong wire breaks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: vinny11950
Yeah, it sounds like a shared neutral. Be careful. More knowledgeable members will be able to advice better.

Also, I don't know the code in your area, but in mine, the bathroom has to be on a dedicated circuit. And the electric heater in that bathroom also has to be on another dedicated circuit breaker too. It may be easier to pull out the old wires and run new ones from the breaker box to the bathroom. I ended up calling an electrician, and then I did some minor adjustments.

But I am pretty sure if you gut renovate the bathroom, you need to bring it up to code.
 
When digging into a quagmire like this, it's sometimes best to undo ALL connections in this junction box, and take hot to ground and hot to neutral readings on all cables. This way, you'll know which are lines vs loads, real quick.

If there's a concern about good grounds and neutrals, you can always check all hots against a known good line ground, once you identify it.

Just mark your wiring first, if you are concerned with setting it back to original, post-test.
 
yep agreed you are better off un hooking everything and start from scratch. if you gut the bathroom you do need to bring it up to current code. lights should be on a 15 amp circuit outlet or outlets need to be on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. the heater needs to be on a 20 amp dedicated circuit. unhook all wires then turn on any breakers that were shut off. go up and see which one or ones are live and shut them off and find out what is off in the house and go from there. the lights can be put on the existing 15 amp circuit with the rest of the house. beware that in a junction box if a cable goes to a single switch and in the switch box is just that one cable then the white of that cable should be on the hot of the circuit. so if you see a white wire on the same wirenut as the blacks that is the switch leg and the black of that cable goes to the black of the light.

outlets should be on a gfi outlet or breaker and and the fan and outlet should be on a arc fault breaker

(i hate arc fault breakers)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
i have so many messed up wiring things in my house, and i've been gradually cleaning them up. if i were you, and you can do it, I would run fresh wires to the breaker and be done with it. I have found that a lot of houses from the 60's with remodels have a lot of buried junction boxes....

You might have either a shared neutral, a backfeed from the light or fan that is not marked correctly. Lots of options. If you are tearing everything out, don't do a half assed job. Think about how much of a pain this is for you trying to figure out what the last guy is, and think about how easy it would be if you ever have to do it again.
 
Thanks for all the information.

The new fan/light won't have a heater, just a light, a night-light, and the fan, so that's not going to need a separate heater circuit. Running new wires all the way from the breaker box in the basement would be a real pain. I'm leaning towards identifying the hot and neutrals coming in, and if they indeed are on separate circuits, separating out the neutrals and going from there with fresh wires and junction boxes. One circuit can be the vanity and shower lights, and the other can have the fan and central light.

fbelec...there is a wire nut in the attic with several blacks and one white wire. That does come from the switch for the shower light, so that seems to be wired correctly (at least as far as color coding goes).

Thanks all!
 
Thanks for all the information.

The new fan/light won't have a heater, just a light, a night-light, and the fan, so that's not going to need a separate heater circuit. Running new wires all the way from the breaker box in the basement would be a real pain. I'm leaning towards identifying the hot and neutrals coming in, and if they indeed are on separate circuits, separating out the neutrals and going from there with fresh wires and junction boxes. One circuit can be the vanity and shower lights, and the other can have the fan and central light.

fbelec...there is a wire nut in the attic with several blacks and one white wire. That does come from the switch for the shower light, so that seems to be wired correctly (at least as far as color coding goes).

Thanks all!

the one white would should have the ends marked black, so you know it is hot coming into the switch.
 
Hi tresk3, I would suggest you to hire the experienced contractor. They can help you easily in solving the power line problem of the bathroom lights and fan. Recently, my aunt has installed the exhaust fan and repaired the lights of the bathroom with the help of the professional (broken link removed to https://www.dndenergy.com/commercial-services/). The team provides all the electrical appliance and wire repair as well as installation. If you want to repair the connection f your bathroom on your own, you can seek suggestion from them or else can contact them directly for the maintenance of all the wires. Hope this will help you.