Basement woodstove, negative pressure

[stoveliker]

Can you explain how an OAK above the stove would be a problem and how much of a difference you think is passive air opening vs OAK?
If OAK brings in cold air wouldn't that make the chimney pipe colder when the coals go down?

An OAK with an inlet above the stove may function as a chimney (and thus while burning creates a fire hazard - hence this is forbidden by code, and this is a major problem).
Regarding your issue: Having 2 "chimneys" compete for air flow direction might very well result in the heavy stack of cold air in the real flue pushing down and winning - i.e. reverse draft. Opening the door at that time (when this flow from the top of the chimney to the OAK inlet, rather than the reverse, is occurring) would allow this big flue of cold air to drop down in your basement as streaming out of the door has a lower impedance in your (low pressure) basement than thru the stove and the narrow OAK out again.

When you (before starting the stove) notice reverse draft, close the stove door (leave the air setting as it was), go outside, light a cigarette or incense or something near the inlet and see how the air flows at the OAK inlet: outward (reversed) or into the OAK (normal).

OAKs are good for tight homes where make-up air is hard to get. But OAKs can become very dangerous too.

 

[bholler]

Can you explain how an OAK above the stove would be a problem and how much of a difference you think is passive air opening vs OAK?
If OAK brings in cold air wouldn't that make the chimney pipe colder when the coals go down?

An oak above the stove is not allowed because it can actually act as a second chimney pulling hot exhaust.

 

[MR. GLO]

An oak above the stove is not allowed because it can actually act as a second chimney pulling hot exhaust.

So how would a Panasonic Erv in the other side of the basement or a makeup air kit for another appliance in basement apply to this rule or issue?
I am assuming the ERV wont make a difference because its bringing air in and exhausting air... 40/20 or 20/10.

 

[bholler]

So how would a Panasonic Erv in the other side of the basement or a makeup air kit for another appliance in basement apply to this rule or issue?
I am assuming the ERV wont make a difference because its bringing air in and exhausting air... 40/20 or 20/10.

Unless it is hooked up direct to the stove it isn't an issue

 

[stoveliker]

Btw, IF you have an OAK, AND you are reading CO, your stove leaks...

 

[MR. GLO]

Btw, IF you have an OAK, AND you are reading CO, your stove leaks...

i dont have an oak co can come out the air inlet holes and every stove ive owned really isnt 100 percent air tight. it has done it on two models. And total of two times.

for example look at all the stoves owners that dont preheat and get smoke out many holes. are you saying it only backflows only out the oak? i wouldn't know ive never owned a stove with an OAK.

trying to narrow it down its possible the basement fresh air is dropping and making the area of stove cold. this was above stove to the right about 5 feet away.

 

[stoveliker]

Then I misunderstood the "I did the fresh air part".
I've had a draft issue once (with a clear cause in the chimney) so that the stove would not start (even paper would stop burning). Firebox full of smoke, but nothing came out of the stove. It did pour out of the seams of the stove pipe and from the air intake. Stoves are not "explosion-air-tight" (i.e. upon pressurization they'll leak), but gases flow along the easiest route. The air inlet and the seams in the stove pipe should be the first (and only) leak points.

I'm not understanding your last sentence.

 

[MR. GLO]

Sorry for the confusion. Even though I dont have an OAK I still want to learn.

"trying to narrow it down its possible the basement fresh air is dropping and making the area of stove cold. this was above stove to the right about 5 feet away."

I have a 6 inch vent hole for a portable ac near the basement stove which I plugged and capped during stove use in the fall. With one stove I had minor smoke spillage at reload...I opened this up a little thinking the stove needed more fresh air, but now dont think that was the reason. I think it was stove pipe length, more than 3 feet, I was at 4.

Cold air dropped quickly to the bottom of the stove area. Its possibly this contributed to a cold flue but not sure. Now I have closed it completely back up.

 

[MR. GLO]

Well I added 2 feet to the chimney and it did change the draft. The gauge before light went from .02 to .025 -.03 immediately after I changed the sections. 17 feet total now. Not sure I needed it but I got the smoke higher up and hopefully wont drop into eaves now.

At burn draft went up a little but I couldn't do a full test due to a problem. .12 with the Jotul 118 CB. So I turned it down it down to .09 with key damper. So guessing 2 feet added .01 to .02 of draft.

Problem: When I went to light the stove and with the door open (It didn't do it after door closed door guessing due to stove draft.) I saw some smoke at rear of stove. First I thought it was the secondary's and related to the new pipe addition. But unfortunately I think the rear plate lower on the stove is leaking. I watched the smoke come out. I did a smoke test and smoke sucked in when burning and door closed.
Zero Toys SmokPoint Air Flow Indicator

So this could be where my CO is coming from (at coaling) and cold air into the stove, but I wont know until after I repair stove. Going to try to seal it from inside but looks like a total tear down and reseal. Its close to the secondary opening but I closed them with the flash lever and the draw is to strong. Its a 2009 so Im guessing the sealant is bad.