Auto burn control add on
- Thread starter Rogerwood
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You want automatic, precise control of the house temperature. The control needs to have multiple negative feedback loops. With many sensors. Room temp, room set point, stove temp, outside temp, air control position. I think the control needs to alert you when it needs more fuel. And then some AI would be helpful. Not easy software.
But the seasoned wood burner can take in all the variables and set the air control. We all know when you don't get it right the house is cooking or freezing.
But the seasoned wood burner can take in all the variables and set the air control. We all know when you don't get it right the house is cooking or freezing.
Yeah it takes a while to learn a new setup as well. I change stoves pretty often but I like the challenge of figuring it out.
Hotblast and daka furnaces used a bimetallic thermostat along with those wonderful circulators. There is a thread on here about an ClaytonCF700M furnace that was retrofitted with a bimetallic thermostat off of a Hitzer.
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Clayton CF700M
I just wanted to give my experience with my new Clayton CF700M since I didn't find a ton of info on the net prior to purchase in hopes this helps someone else out. I know these furnaces are discontinued and are probalby not as many around as with some other brands and models. As far as...
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I thought I remembered seeing something like that in an add a long time ago, which made me think that something better should exist by now.
Thank you for all the advice. I’ve only had the stove for a month. So I still have a lot of learning to go I’m sure.
im finding out that a wood stove takes up a lot more time then a central air system. So I’m trying to save as much time (of sitting in front of a stove) as I can. Also I want to reduce over fires and creosote as well.
(the biggest reward of a wood stove is a happy wife) and maybe the only one
im finding out that a wood stove takes up a lot more time then a central air system. So I’m trying to save as much time (of sitting in front of a stove) as I can. Also I want to reduce over fires and creosote as well.
(the biggest reward of a wood stove is a happy wife) and maybe the only one
Something better does exist in the wood furnace world where automation is more necessary. They’re often in a basement so they need to be self operating. The bimetallic coil thermostat has been replaced by a computer that needs a thermocouple in the firebox to maintain cleanliness, safety, and desired output.
These things can be quite efficient too.
A wood furnace is little more than a woodstove with a blower box built around it.
All to say that yes, automation is very possible and is currently available in wood burners.
Once you learn your stove and get comfortable with it it really doesn't take much time at all. With dry wood I am usually up to temp and shut down in 15 mins or so. I then don't touch it again for about 8 hours. And that goes for the blazeking I am currently running and the quad and regency I ran before that were similar to your stove.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Biggest time saver I have is my temperature alarm from Auber instruments. You don’t need to babysit your stove to keep it from getting too hot. Have considered building a temp dependent blower speed controller but haven’t done that yet. With and instant thermometer reading available with practice you can get pretty good at running the stove right where you want it.
If I were to build an inlet air control t would probably be mainly for overfire protection. It wouldn’t need to be infinitely variable just one that would close say 30% and one that would close 75% probably use some kind of solenoid. They would have a set close (solenoid on/activate) temp using some off the shelf cooling PID unit.
Just my thoughts.
Evan
If I were to build an inlet air control t would probably be mainly for overfire protection. It wouldn’t need to be infinitely variable just one that would close say 30% and one that would close 75% probably use some kind of solenoid. They would have a set close (solenoid on/activate) temp using some off the shelf cooling PID unit.
Just my thoughts.
Evan
I'm waiting for the Smart stove control that I can adjust with my smartphone from work!
Only if you buy the premium version with the auto-reload robot. ;-)I'm waiting for the Smart stove control that I can adjust with my smartphone from work!
Youd want to have an appropriate set of redundant alarms or backup controls I think. Ive had obscure bugs pop up in my code after years of stability. Id be worried about my contraption failing the air vent full open! Especially as any component you put near the stove goes through a variety of thermal stresses.
But it would be a fun project... a fire and forget sort of stove smart enough to handle the entire cycle cleanly sounds like a great engineering challenge. Sounds like MF fire is trying that?
But it would be a fun project... a fire and forget sort of stove smart enough to handle the entire cycle cleanly sounds like a great engineering challenge. Sounds like MF fire is trying that?
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It’s not that I’m trying to get exact room temperatures, but I’d like to be able to run my stove at either a low medium or high burn temperature, And then keep the air inlet wide open so the coals can burn down.
Why do you want the coals to burn down? I usually want the coals to last as long as possible then reload.
A long cool burn down of coals is great when that makes enough heat to keep your home warm. It really gives you a long burn time and less reloads per day.
Things change when it’s cold out.
Then those stupid coals don’t make enough heat to keep the stove hot and accumulate to the point that you can’t put more wood in for heat.
Some people actually scoop them out and throw them in the snow to make more room for fresh fuel.
I usually scoop the ash off top. I guess I am a little spoiled when the stove is too full I fire the other one up lol.
More specifically, the excess caols. In the morning there tends to be a partial log or at least a lot of caols that are black in the back end of the stove, While the front of the stove has plenty of luke warm coals
My neighbor showed me how to make a great coal/ash sifting scoop. In the morning I sift out( in the stove) about half the ash while keeping all the coals in the stove. Then I scoop out the ashes to a can with a lid. I can keep that can in the house putting off more heat till it completely cools.
I’ve learned that when you have access calls you can pile them towards the front of the stove and lay a soft wood log on it and they burn down pretty quickly. But I haven’t been through a cold winter yet. Round here it’s still in the 30s at night
When I rake the coals forward I try to bust up the bigger pieces level out the coal bed then add new wood on top if there's ash I scoop it out first.
If you can take the coals forward then we’re talking about different things. You can fill the fire box 3/4 full of nothing but glowing coals when you’re really wanting the heat. It’s actually a great sign that your stove is undersized but also a great sign that you’re just asking too much of it.
In my house stove and my climate, I really appreciate the cooler coaling part of the cycle. It averages out with the hotter early parts of the cycle to keep us comfortable.
In my house stove and my climate, I really appreciate the cooler coaling part of the cycle. It averages out with the hotter early parts of the cycle to keep us comfortable.
I don’t think I’m asking too much my stove. At least not on purpose. It’s keeping my basement and first floor of my house close to 80°. Which is more than I would like. My goal is to run it at a lower temperature with a longer burn to Keep from using up so much firewood. I probably should mention that at this point all I have access to is Elm and Maple. Hopefully by this time next year I’ll have a lot more hedge in Mulberry on hand
Not trying to be critical but.....Don't believe I'd be keeping a can of hot coals anywhere in my house until they cooled? Unless I misunderstood your post?
It’s mostly ash with quarter inch size coals mixed in it. Can has a tight lid and it doesn’t get hot enough to even make the factory finish smell hot.
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