Anyone have good draw with a 1 story addition stove in a 2 story house?

[Gibraltar IV]

With help from this forum, I installed an NC30 in the lower-level add-on room of my 2-story (that was once an earth contact). I went straight up through the roof of the 1-story room with 15ft total length.
I used DSP double wall inside. No draft problems during my first season last year, regardless of wind conditions or outside temp. It just works.

 

[enigmablaze]

Some stove designs are more draft sensitive and can be more prone to backpuffing when draft is marginal. VC downdraft models are another example. But backpuffing can also happen due to operator error. For example, if damp or poorly seasoned wood is place on a kindling fire (or turns down the air too soon) and that causes the fire to temporarily go out so that smoke builds up. Then the operator unwittingly supplies more air to the fire that causes a flame to appear and ignite the unburnt gases. Don't ask how I know this, but it involved a Jotul Castine. Not the stove's fault at all. We get a few inquiries every year where this happens.

Good to know! We're looking at a very reputable source for dry firewood, would you recommend a moisture meter as well?

 

[Ashful]

Good to know! We're looking at a very reputable source for dry firewood, would you recommend a moisture meter as well?

Well, yes and no...

You should have a moisture meter as a new burner, to get a sense of what you're burning. Over time, you will find you stop using it, as you build a nice stockpile of seasoned wood, and a feel for what's dry vs. not.

However, if this seller's wood ends up being over 20%, what are you going to do? Do you have another seller to consider? The reality is that 99%+ of reports we see here indicate that sellers advertising dry or seasoned wood don't understand the meaning of these words. Most are selling wood from trees that may have been on the ground over 1 year, but most often split just days before delivery. Wood doesn't really dry very well, until it has been split and stacked.

I read frequent advice here, people suggesting you take some of the seller's wood, and split and test it at time of delivery. I can't imagine actually doing this, or what I'd plan to do if it came in high. I think we'd do better suggesting people check out Poindexter's threads on how to dry wood insanely fast, he has set a new bar for this forum to match, at least in the speed department.

 

[BKVP]

Well, yes and no...

You should have a moisture meter as a new burner, to get a sense of what you're burning. Over time, you will find you stop using it, as you build a nice stockpile of seasoned wood, and a feel for what's dry vs. not.

However, if this seller's wood ends up being over 20%, what are you going to do? Do you have another seller to consider? The reality is that 99%+ of reports we see here indicate that sellers advertising dry or seasoned wood don't understand the meaning of these words. Most are selling wood from trees that may have been on the ground over 1 year, but most often split just days before delivery. Wood doesn't really dry very well, until it has been split and stacked.

I read frequent advice here, people suggesting you take some of the seller's wood, and split and test it at time of delivery. I can't imagine actually doing this, or what I'd plan to do if it came in high. I think we'd do better suggesting people check out Poindexter's threads on how to dry wood insanely fast, he has set a new bar for this forum to match, at least in the speed department.

Or go to sellers lot and check it there...