Anyone familiar with this type metal roof

[bogydave]

CL has this close to me.
Seems heavy but may make a good roof for the wood shed
Anyone familiar with how it hooks together & how to attach since it's the heavy gage type?
pre-drill?
(broken link removed to http://anchorage.craigslist.org/mat/1867722138.html)

 

[Cluttermagnet]

Is it just me- or does it strike you that that's pretty expensive for used material? Even for very good quality? Even for Alaska?

That would be a Cadillac-grade shed roof for darned sure! If you get it- I think if it were mine I'd be using screws for fasteners, not nails. It would break my heart to see that stuff peel back and fly away in a severe storm. At least, use adhesive liberally with nails.

 

[SolarAndWood]

As long as you have a decent variable speed drill, you can usually just drive the screws in without pre-drilling. They make oversized gasketed screws for previously enjoyed roofing as long as it was removed carefully.

It is hard to tell from the pics, but that stuff looks like it may attach to a metal perlin system as opposed to the stuff you would screw down to a deck?

 

[Beetle-Kill]

Hi Dave. That stuf looks like a 2B style of concrete form deck. Do a search on Vulcraft's web site. Also a company called Drexal will have info. on it. Search SDI (steel deck institute) to check out the sizing. This is tough stuff, and the price sounds pretty good to me, even down here. You can overlap it and screw it down to your roof, but may need to pre-drill depending on the guage. Finding a drip edge for the tall side may pose a problem, but mabey you could find some "pour stop" edging and invert it for a drip edge. I'll check in later, good luck. JB

 

[Battenkiller]

You're definitely gonna want to pre-drill that stuff. The fasteners have a hard enough time penetrating the thin stuff.

If you lay out your purlins carefully and transfer the positions to the metal accurately, you can drill through several sheets all at once, simplifying things immensely. While you're at it, you can cut them all to the correct length at the same time. Tape the ends together with duct tape to keep the saw from flipping up the top layer and jamming in the event of a violent kickback. Then use a beat up carbide blade that you have no use for, and put it in the saw backwards. Much better than using an abrasive cutoff blade. Also, I think Freud has a new blade for circ saws that is designed for metal cutting (0º rake angle), but it's $40 or so. Please, wear a full plastic face shield (not the screen shields that you use for cutting wood). Metal shards in the eyes are no joke.

 

[Beetle-Kill]

+1 to what Battenkiller said. Plus hearing protection- you'll understand after the first 1" of cut. If you can get enough to cover the roof, last one you'll have to do.

 

[Ronmbucket]

Thats used on commercial buildings,I've never seen it galvanized. We used to have it welded down to bar joist.and then hot mopped insulation board on top to give a smooth surface for a hot roof. Its over kill for a wood shed,but not difficult to cut and fasten.

 

[Battenkiller]

Here's that blade I mentioned. It actually has a -5º rake angle. They claim it will outlast an abrasive blade 40-to-1. Won't leave those nasty burrs on the metal edges, so nothing to grind off after the cut. Plus, it doesn't keep getting smaller as you use it, so it always cuts at the same rate throughout its life. I have a dedicated saw for metal cutting, so I'm going to order one for the next metal cutting project and report back somewhere. Seems like it might be a real good way to cut welded stove pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0770F-...ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1281014711&sr=8-5